Will Behringer B2031P's work well with my receiver?

adwilk

adwilk

Audioholic Ninja
Do I need to get some kind of splitter to make this work?
You got it... thats exactly what you'll need. I have to warn you, be careful. Chris is just warming up. Its only a matter of time before Chris breaks out the "highly effective integration device" or whatever he calls it. He'll have you order the the DCX if you want to avoid completely wasting your time. This will allow you to achieve audio nirvana or some stuff... :p

Just giving you a hard time, Chris.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I suspect the only difference between the two speakers is they swapped the bottom drivers.
Actually, these speakers share no major components!

The 2031 uses a 1" tweeter instead of the 3/4" tweeter of the 2030.
The 2031 uses a 8-3/4" woofer instead of the 6-3/4" woofer of the 2030.
The 2031 crosses over at 2kHz while the 2030 crosses at 2.3kHz.

I don't know how much of the concerns this resolves, but I think people are being overly critical of these speakers based on speculation/inference.

That said, the OP should know that if I were in his shoes, I would get the 2030 if sub(s) are in the plan.

Cheers,
Kurt
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
You got it... thats exactly what you'll need. I have to warn you, be careful. Chris is just warming up. Its only a matter of time before Chris breaks out the "highly effective integration device" or whatever he calls it. He'll have you order the the DCX if you want to avoid completely wasting your time. This will allow you to achieve audio nirvana or some stuff... :p
I would think that the less expensive CX would do the job just fine.
 
MidnightSensi

MidnightSensi

Audioholic Samurai
I would think that the less expensive CX would do the job just fine.
Not that i'd recommend either, but, the CX won't let you set the crossover slope and type (only the frequency), parametric EQing, and uses (less precise) knobs to control settings.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
Not that i'd recommend either, but, the CX won't let you set the crossover slope and type (only the frequency), parametric EQing, and uses (less precise) knobs to control settings.
though at 1/4th the cost, the magic question is "how signifigant will that be on final sound". Also important is the complexity of properly programming things like the slope. There's no point having the abilit to on the crossover if the user cannot take advantage of it.

Finally: on what basis would you not recommend either? What would you recommend?
 
Cristofori

Cristofori

Audioholic
Although the 2030/sub combo was tempting, I decided to go with the 2031's after all. I'd rather pool my resources into getting a new and better turntable, which I've been wanting for a long time. Anyway, the price difference between the two models was only $15! Most other speaker companies price differences would have been in the hundreds. I might as well take advantage of it. I can't really lose with either choice (I hope).

Also, I wasn't all that impressed with the reviews on the Dayton 8" subs I've read, which seemed to indicate there were some common problems amongst different owners. I also didn't think the things looked all that hot either.

In most real world applications, you get what you pay for. I believe the Behringer's are the rare exception, but I'm not too sure about the Dayton's just yet, although I've yet to own or listen to either. Just going by what I've learned and word of mouth.

Subwoofers will probably be the last thing I get, if I get them at all. I can always get the subs later on anyway. It's not like a slightly larger model of bookshelves would make that much of a difference. Some audiophiles (including some on this board) have dual subs with huge, full range speakers that probably don't even need them!

I can get by without the subs for now, but I can't get by without a decent pair of speakers, and I'm looking forward to getting my new Behringer's!

I will let you know how it works out if anyone cares.
 
dkane360

dkane360

Audioholic Field Marshall
Although the 2030/sub combo was tempting, I decided to go with the 2031's after all. I'd rather pool my resources into getting a new and better turntable, which I've been wanting for a long time. Anyway, the price difference between the two models was only $15! Most other speaker companies price differences would have been in the hundreds. I might as well take advantage of it. I can't really lose with either choice (I hope).

Also, I wasn't all that impressed with the reviews on the Dayton 8" subs I've read, which seemed to indicate there were some common problems amongst different owners. I also didn't think the things looked all that hot either.

In most real world applications, you get what you pay for. I believe the Behringer's are the rare exception, but I'm not too sure about the Dayton's just yet, although I've yet to own or listen to either. Just going by what I've learned and word of mouth.

Subwoofers will probably be the last thing I get, if I get them at all. I can always get the subs later on anyway. It's not like a slightly larger model of bookshelves would make that much of a difference. Some audiophiles (including some on this board) have dual subs with huge, full range speakers that probably don't even need them!

I can get by without the subs for now, but I can't get by without a decent pair of speakers, and I'm looking forward to getting my new Behringer's!

I will let you know how it works out if anyone cares.
I have the B2031P's and they're atrocious.




















Nah I'm just messing with you lol. They're great, and you wont be disappointed :D
 
N

Nugu

Audioholic
I'm sure you'll love them regardless. I own the 2030ps and the off-axis and whatever the term is for the music "surrounding" you is just amazing. I have them setup in a 5.1 config and I actually had a friend comment on how good the surround sound was when my onkyo was in Stereo mode. Hopefully the larger drivers keep that aspect of the 2030s.


Your amp is rated at 100wpc @ 4 ohm btw.
 
MidnightSensi

MidnightSensi

Audioholic Samurai
though at 1/4th the cost, the magic question is "how signifigant will that be on final sound". Also important is the complexity of properly programming things like the slope. There's no point having the abilit to on the crossover if the user cannot take advantage of it.
Agreed. Programming things like the crossover type and slope isn't too bad, just takes a little time. For a hobbyist I would say it is enjoyable and you learn a bit about your speakers.


Finally: on what basis would you not recommend either? What would you recommend?
I've made other posts about Behringer:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=587797&highlight=behringer#post587797
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=507405&highlight=behringer#post507405

I don't really mind people buying Behringer, I just, think for a bit more money there is better products out there.

As far as processing units, I think dbX makes some nice budget stuff.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Agreed. Programming things like the crossover type and slope isn't too bad, just takes a little time. For a hobbyist I would say it is enjoyable and you learn a bit about your speakers.




I've made other posts about Behringer:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=587797&highlight=behringer#post587797
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=507405&highlight=behringer#post507405

I don't really mind people buying Behringer, I just, think for a bit more money there is better products out there.

As far as processing units, I think dbX makes some nice budget stuff.
We all know your feelings on Behringer.:D I think you have a point.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I challenge Midnight to show the Truths are actual 'clones'. You should of course be able to easily swap parts between the Behringer and Genelec it is supposed to be 'cloning' if this is true. :) He has provided nothing but a picture showing a Genelec that 'sort of' looks like the Behringer. It's not even a close match - the only common things being it has dual rectangluar ports in the same general location. They also both have tweeter wave guides(as do most studio monitors), though the Behringer takes the rare path of using a waveguide that increases treble dispersion, while most waveguides do the opposite.

The Behringer uses quality parts throughout, and does not even skimp on crossover parts quality (uses only mylar capacitors and the large coil is a very large guage(relative to what you usually see) to prevent power saturation at high input levels. Measured quality is very impressive - nothing like it that I know of anywhere near the price of the Behringers.

-Chris
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
I don't really mind people buying Behringer, I just, think for a bit more money there is better products out there.

As far as processing units, I think dbX makes some nice budget stuff.
The dbX 223XL (the closest thing I can find to the CX) is more than twice the cost of the CX2310 (zzSounds $179 vd $79), and I don't see a competitor for the DCX.

I found some time ago Yamaha's competitor for the $300 DCX, it was well over $1000.

Sony makes great CD-players and lousy speakers. Not all products from a given manufacturer are created equal. Unless you have specific negative experiences (or reliable reports from others of such) with the products being discussed: I think it's apples-to-oranges.
 
MidnightSensi

MidnightSensi

Audioholic Samurai
It's hard to argue with experts.

Keep looking, last time I checked it even had a nice little flash thing on their homepage. But, yes, it is more expensive. (hint: it's called a Driverack PA)

I have negative experiences, I've discussed them before. You can search, or not, don't really care. :)
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
Keep looking, last time I checked it even had a nice little flash thing on their homepage. But, yes, it is more expensive. (hint: it's called a Driverack PA)
Thanks.

Driverack PA+ it looks like, the PA has been discontinued. A quick search puts it around $500: 66% more than the DCX, but not nearly as expensive as, say, Yamaha's product.

The HiQnet protocol and architect sofware look very neat as well, though it looks like I can't daisy chain the units.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
There is a new Driverack model, the Plus, to replace the last one. The last model was not as good a choice for home audio use for active speakers, or for HT use. It did not have a computer interface GUI(you had to go to the much higher priced Driverack to get computer interface), it had less inputs (2 instead of 3, which adds up quick in HT use where you need many input channels) and not digital audio input. It has less bandwidth also(48kHz compared to 96kHz). The new model appears to have a USB interface on the back, but I don't know if they have a GUI software for it, but I imagine they do. It also still does not appear to be daisy chained to 'slave' units to use for many channels, like for HT, that the DCX is very capable of doing. And of course, you would need 3 of the Driveracks to do a HT set up where only 2 DCX are needed, since the DCX has 50 percent more input channels. The new model still has half the bandwidth of the DCX and no digital audio input.

DIY speaker builders overwhelmingly prefer the DCX, and those that have tried the Driverack usually also preferred the DCX. Pro use is a different matter, and the Driverack has some specific features that make it easier to set up for pro installations. But this is a very different application as compared to home use.

-Chris
 
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