Will a 500 rms system be enough for this room?

N

Nuglets

Full Audioholic
Like the review says...It is a "near-field" THX certified system. These are very small speakers that you will want to have on a desk near you. That is why they are computer speakers. They aren't meant to fill a room with HT surround sound. I would not by those for a Home Theater System.
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
You’re kidding right? Those speakers are a great solution for a dorm room or even for casual listening in a medium sized bedroom. In my opinion unless you have a tin ear you will not be happy with them in a home theater.

From the changing description I’m guessing the room isn’t finished yet Do your self a huge favor and have a professional custom installer run 7.2 (future proofing) cabling for audio and video through the unfinished walls. It’s a whole lot easier and cheaper to do it before the drywall goes up.

I’d budget $1,200 for a set of 5 good speakers and an entry level sub, and another $300-500 for a good name brand receiver. I’d send SVS the diagram and have them size the sub for you and let them make some suggestions.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Nuglets said:
Like the review says...It is a "near-field" THX certified system. These are very small speakers that you will want to have on a desk near you. That is why they are computer speakers. They aren't meant to fill a room with HT surround sound. I would not by those for a Home Theater System.
They're no worse then any HTIB. Actually, they're better then every single HTIB I have heard.

Just because they are certified for near field, doesn't mean they will perform poorly in a non near field setup.

That said, your room is about the size of mine, and I have a 6.2 system in it(but my tv is on the short wall). I would suggest re-arranging your layout so the display is on the short wall. It helps with subwoofer locations.

You need to give us a budget before we can start recommending components for you.

SheepStar
 
waveking

waveking

Enthusiast
Thanks for the response guys.
Sholling,
This, indeed is an unfinished room, and I have planned for future wiring of a 7.1 setup, specially so that I do not have wires running from the front to the rear. I have an underground wire housing, where I can add wires in future.

Sheep,
My primary cause for choosing this HTIB was that I am on a very small budget at the moment :(
For speakers, my budget is approx $450 for all speakers and $100 for a receiver. I would use my laptop as the DVD player, and my sources of input would be my laptop, TV, mp3 player and maybe a DVD player in future.

Regarding the placement, as you see, my family wants to put a dining table also in the room, and wall D has a glass window. Hence I seem to come to this arrangement. Have you any got any alternative ideas ?
 
WorldLeader

WorldLeader

Full Audioholic
As an owner of that exact system I had them set up in a 5.1 arrangement for home theater and they didn't sound bad at all. I put the surrounds up by the ceiling and the mains at ear-level. The subwoofer is also better for HT than for music, and in my opinion it is fine. Some people would like to tell you that it will be pure crap and you should save your money, but for the money nothing is further from the truth. They will easily fill your room, these puppies are LOUD! The remote is very nice and everything is well-built. Through some complex math they really are 1000 watts RMS, but wattage isn't as important as output.

Listen, if you have a grand to spend then yes get something better, but for ~300 this system will do great. :)
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
WorldLeader said:
Through some complex math they really are 1000 watts RMS, but wattage isn't as important as output.

Listen, if you have a grand to spend then yes get something better, but for ~300 this system will do great. :)
You should read the back of the subwoofer plate amp some time. Voltage x Amps = Wattage(max).

SheepStar
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
Sheep said:
They're no worse then any HTIB. Actually, they're better then every single HTIB I have heard.
I don't disagree. I just feel that there are better choices even if they will cost a bit more. My old Klipsch Promedia 4.1s handily out perform most of my friends sound systems, and I have a set of 5.1 Ultras that I may put in the bedroom.

I think that you will agree that cabling for down the line home theater speakers should be done during construction.

If it were me I'd lose the extra door, move the dinning room table to the other end of the room, place the couch in the middle of the room and the TV at the top. The listening position will be better, the view from the table would be much better and speaker placement simpler. Of course if the TV isn’t too huge you may still be able to keep the door.
 
T

tec_41

Audioholic Intern
I have (well just sold them, so had) some Logitech Z-680's. They are the previous model to the Z-5500's. The only difference is the look and the sub is a 10" instead of an 8". I have never heard a better htib setup...in a small/midsize room they will get LOUD and the sub has no problem keeping up. For $300 they are a steal, and have some nice features. So don't listen to the guys who have never owned, let alone even heard them tell you that they are crap just because they come as a package ;)
 
waveking

waveking

Enthusiast
Hmm... thanks for the inputs people.

Sholling, you gave me a new idea to setup my room. Check out the revised drawing with this message. Is this more in line what you are trying to suggest me?

Door on wall D, is actually the entrance to the house. I wonder if my family will agree to have the dining table on the main house entrance :) Lets see anyway.
 

Attachments

waveking

waveking

Enthusiast
On seconds thoughts, will it matter if I use corner of Wall A-C or corner C-D for my subwoofer? Corner C-D will have one wall of mostly glass.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
waveking said:
On seconds thoughts, will it matter if I use corner of Wall A-C or corner C-D for my subwoofer? Corner C-D will have one wall of mostly glass.
Use C-A. the subwoofer is cross'd out very high, so having it in the front stage will help keep dialoge and other 200hz frequencys coming from the front speakers.

Actually, don't put it in a corner... Put it as close the the TV as you can.

SheepStar
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
I don't disagree. I just feel that there are better choices even if they will cost a bit more. My old Klipsch Promedia 4.1s handily out perform most of my friends sound systems, and I have a set of 5.1 Ultras that I may put in the bedroom.
So how is the Ultra system going to provide Digital Decoding? THIS is why ONLY the logitech systems are plausible.

SheepStar
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
waveking said:
Hmm... thanks for the inputs people.

Sholling, you gave me a new idea to setup my room. Check out the revised drawing with this message. Is this more in line what you are trying to suggest me?

Door on wall D, is actually the entrance to the house. I wonder if my family will agree to have the dining table on the main house entrance :) Lets see anyway.
Looks good to me.
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
Sheep said:
So how is the Ultra system going to provide Digital Decoding? THIS is why ONLY the logitech systems are plausible.

SheepStar
I did not suggest the Klipsch for him. Yup I like them a whole lot better for music but that’s me. What I said is that they work well for me. Of course if he plugged them into a receiver with decoding or a receiver hooked to a DVD player with decoding - gee that might work huh. Kinda like a home theater system works huh? Kinda like what he’s planning huh? :D
 
waveking

waveking

Enthusiast
Wow.. looks like my room arrangement is improving very well, thanks to you guys!

Here are my current designs as per your ideas... I played upon your ideas and drawing2, looks the best to me till now, which meets family requirements, and seems to be good for the sound too.

I plan to keep my sub near the TV.
 

Attachments

sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
I like 3 because it gives the most flexability less lighting issues and a better dining room view. But 2 males a much better entry.
 
WorldLeader

WorldLeader

Full Audioholic
Sheep said:
You should read the back of the subwoofer plate amp some time. Voltage x Amps = Wattage(max).

SheepStar
I actually just looked at the plate amp and they didn't list any numbers, but I was probably thinking of the "Total Peak Power" number, whatever that is.

Logitech z5500 Specs:
Total RMS power: 505 watts RMS
Satellites: 317 watts RMS (2 x 62 W front, 2 x 62 rear, 69 W center)
Subwoofer: 188 watts RMS
Total Peak power: 1010 watts
Maximum SPL: >115 dB
Frequency response: 33 Hz — 20 kHz
Amplifier: Ultra-linear, high-capacity analog
Signal to noise ratio: >93.5 dB, typical 100
 
waveking

waveking

Enthusiast
as I was expecting, the family wants to go by design 1, in which I have my couch lined up on wall B... guess I'll have to make the best out of this layout only. Naturally, for the family practical feasibility and usability of the room has a higher priority than sound :)
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
WorldLeader said:
I actually just looked at the plate amp and they didn't list any numbers, but I was probably thinking of the "Total Peak Power" number, whatever that is.

Logitech z5500 Specs:
Total RMS power: 505 watts RMS
Satellites: 317 watts RMS (2 x 62 W front, 2 x 62 rear, 69 W center)
Subwoofer: 188 watts RMS
Total Peak power: 1010 watts
Maximum SPL: >115 dB
Frequency response: 33 Hz — 20 kHz
Amplifier: Ultra-linear, high-capacity analog
Signal to noise ratio: >93.5 dB, typical 100
They HAVE to list the numbers, the Voltage (120) and Amperage will be right by the power cord.

SheepStar
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top