which speaker wire would you use?

[Paul Jubick]

I have a Denon 1612 receiver and energy 5.1 classic surround system. should I use the 16 or 18 gage wire. I dont want to lose quality on the system but some say it wouldnt make any difference. What do u guys think? also there is expensive monster wire. Would that be even better?

 

[Adam]

Hi, Paul. Audioholics recently wrote an article on speaker wire sizing, but I've been a fan of a convenient table and explanations at the site linked here for years (and I don't feel like finding the article right now ).

The gauge that you want will depend on the speakers and the length of wire that you'll be using. That link that I gave gives lengths that should keep the resistance in the wires to less than 5% of the total impedance of the system. A thicker wire will be even less.

Monster cable isn't bad cable, but it's no better than the lower priced stuff that you can buy at Monoprice or many other places. Some folks recommend and use zip wire from places like Home Depot. The receiver, speakers, and speaker wires are parts of an electrical circuit - and copper wire is copper wire. Aesthetics is another thing, though, and you can buy fancy looking cables or even make your own. Just let us know if you are interested in that.

 

[PENG]

That link is handy, but to use the table I would go one size larger, to allow for other factors.

 

[Adam]

That link is handy, but to use the table I would go one size larger, to allow for other factors.

Hi, Peng - what other factors are you thinking about? Just curious. Thanks.

 

[Irvrobinson]

I wouldn't ever use 16 or 18 gauge speaker wire. It's probably too thin for modern low impedance speakers, and 14 gauge or larger stranded wire is cheap from so many sources, including your local Home Depot, there's no reason to skimp. As Adam says, there's also no reason to pay premium prices for mere wire. Termination quality can vary, however, including the mechanical quality of the spades or banana plugs, and the workmanship of the termination operation itself also varies. Some folks like to run unterminated speaker wires, but I don't recommend it. Stray copper strands can cause shorting problems.

 

[Adam]

I'll admit that I'm running 16-gauge wire to my surround speakers. In my mind, it's okay due to the relative amount of audio material going to those speakers, and they are rated at 8 Ohms nominal. My longest run is about 40 feet, though, so I'm curious why Peng would choose a size up. There's nothing that I'm going to do about ~20 feet of it being 16-gauge because I ran flat wire under my carpet when it was installed. I could upgrade the wires on both sides of the wall plates. I probably won't , but I would like to learn why others might.

 

[Irvrobinson]

I'll admit that I'm running 16-gauge wire to my surround speakers. In my mind, it's okay due to the relative amount of audio material going to those speakers, and they are rated at 8 Ohms nominal. My longest run is about 40 feet, though, so I'm curious why Peng would choose a size up. There's nothing that I'm going to do about ~20 feet of it being 16-gauge because I ran flat wire under my carpet when it was installed. I could upgrade the wires on both sides of the wall plates. I probably won't , but I would like to learn why others might.

If it works well enough, why change it? But if you were starting again, would you still use 16 gauge?

 

[mgeoffriau]

Don't overthink it. A 50 ft roll of 14g wire from monoprice is about $10.

 

[templemaners]

I use 16g Monoprice wire on my mains and 14g on my surrounds (since I had longer runs for the surrounds and was trying to use up the rest of that spool). Cheap, works great, and would do the same again.

 

[JerryLove]

That link is handy, but to use the table I would go one size larger, to allow for other factors.

The table already does. It's reasonably accepted that you won't be able to hear any wire-induced changes at 10% of speaker resistance; but the table is actually geard for a maximum of 5%. There's already a margin of error.

 

[jcl]

I cast my vote for the Monoprice wire as well. You should just get a spool of the 12 gauge and then you don't have to worry about the length of run. For a 50' spool the cost difference between the 14g & 12g is ~ $3. Banana plugs and/or spades are worth it for the convenience as well for inexpensive ones at monoprice.

 

[Adam]

But if you were starting again, would you still use 16 gauge?

Yeah - unless I read something here that changes my mind. I'm confident in the recommendations on that link, but I'm always (okay...usually) open to new info.

Under the carpet, I'm not sure if I'd go thicker. But, now that I know how thick a good carpet pad is, I just might. I was basing my decision back then on the pad (if one could even call it that) that was there originally. I likely couldn't detect 14-gauge under my current pad and carpet, but I bet it would have been easy under the original stuff.

 

[BMXTRIX]

It was not stated this clearly - but the bottom line is that you should not over pay for speaker wire. Just get the thickness which is appropriate for the distance you are running you cable. Going with 12 gauge everywhere is generally plenty of wire for your setup.

Monster Cable tends to be pricier, without being any better. That doesn't make any sense to buy at all.

Instead, try this stuff: HDMI Cable, Home Theater Accessories, HDMI Products, Cables, Adapters, Video/Audio Switch, Networking, USB, Firewire, Printer Toner, and more!

100' of 12 gauge (in-wall rated) for $32.00 - It will be more than sufficient for about anything you can throw at it.

 

[psbfan9]

Blue Jeans Cable

I had a 50 ft. run and used 12 gauge Belden 5000 series cable from Blue Jeans Cable.
The cable is American made. Belden is located in Richmond, Indiana. So it's not the cheap Chinese stuff monster sells.

Speaker Cable at Blue Jeans Cable

Great wire and great customer service from Blue Jeans

 

[jcl]

100' of 12 gauge (in-wall rated) for $32.00 - It will be more than sufficient for about anything you can throw at it.

I found the in wall a bit of a pain to work with; It was stiff and the outer casing was more difficult to cut cleanly. Perhaps I just needed better tools but my standard pen knife was lacking. If you don't need it I'd opt for regular wires.

 

[PENG]

Hi, Peng - what other factors are you thinking about? Just curious. Thanks.

I am not saying that one would hear the difference between an allowable 5% drop or 2% drop due to cable impedance alone but to me this is one potentially negative contribution to sound quality or at least power, that one can easily and cheaply (relatively speaking) control/minimize by going with thicker wires.

As for examples of other factors to consider, there are impedance dips (as opposed to nominal), phase angle peaks, transient attacks in music, and allowable voltage drops of 3 to 5% at the service entrance and could be up to 10% during power shortage period, for residential consumers. On top of that, if you outlet happens to be far away from the panel board, you will have additional voltage drop. Again, these are just examples, so while I think if you follow that table you may be fine for 99% of the time, but I want to be on the safe side if I can afford to. In fact, I would go 15' maximum for 12 AWG, as I am only willing to accept voltage drop that I cannot control.

 

[PENG]

The table already does.

I doubt that.

It's reasonably accepted that you won't be able to hear any wire-induced changes at 10% of speaker resistance; but the table is actually geard for a maximum of 5%. There's already a margin of error.

That could well be the case but people also worry about differences between well designed amps, preamps, DACs etc., so why accept 5% difference (drop, specifically) in voltage, and that maximum of 5% appeared to be based on the rated current of the wire, we all know peak currents could be much higher, i.e. the volt drop during peaks would be higher. Aside from speaker wire size, there are other factors that contribute to the overall voltage drop already, that we cannot easily mitigate. We can, however, minimize the voltage drop contributed by speaker wires simply by going with thicker size, and that can be done easily and relatively affordably. So yes, it is my personal preference, to aim at minimizing speaker wire impedance by going over and beyond what's been provided as reasonable guidelines.

 

[PENG]

I found the in wall a bit of a pain to work with; It was stiff and the outer casing was more difficult to cut cleanly. Perhaps I just needed better tools but my standard pen knife was lacking. If you don't need it I'd opt for regular wires.

I was going to add that some speaker wires are more flexible/pliable than others. I find those easier to work with as you can bent them and shape/form them easily.

 

[mtrycrafts]

I found the in wall a bit of a pain to work with; It was stiff and the outer casing was more difficult to cut cleanly. Perhaps I just needed better tools but my standard pen knife was lacking. If you don't need it I'd opt for regular wires.

For in-wall application it is best to use the rated cable and you don't have to worry. The outer jacket gives protection when you staple it to the framing.
In room, no need for it just regular zip is fine.

 

[JerryLove]

I doubt that.

If random doubt makes you happy.

That could well be the case but people also worry about differences between well designed amps, preamps, DACs etc.,

And are wrong to do so.

so why accept 5% difference

And you said go one size larger: so you are accepting 3%. How did you decide that 3% was OK and 5% was unacceptable?