Which of these Subwoofer Drivers is better?

[Seth=L]

1) Download WinISD. This is speaker modeling software and works very well for subwoofers. You input the driver parameters and its primary function is to suggest enclosure type, tuning frequency, and display a projected frequency response graph. It's indispensible and has several built-in modifiers (crossover, room gain, Linkwitz transforms, etc).

2) I'm not entirely sure what the LT does exactly, but I know it greatly extends low-end response in a sealed box. It's nominally a modification to the amplifier. Rythmik Audio is the primary source for LT kits and plate amps with LTs already added. They also sell a great kit that includes a 350 watt plate amp w/LT along with a very, very good 12" driver for $340 total. You can pick up their 350 watt plate amp with LT installed for, I think, $189. Note that the LT add-on is somewhat specific for the particular driver it's being attached to. If you're handy with a soldering iron you can specify what you need in the LT add-on and they will sell you a kit you can install onto your amp yourself. Their $340 kit (amp + LT + sub) will fit perfectly into a sealed box between 1.7 and 2 cf and give you a -3dB point of around 22-24Hz (compared to 35Hz without the LT). If you want a sealed box, this is probably the easiest and best way to go.

IIRC, you're looking at about 2cf for a sealed 12" Dayton HF driver and 1.4cf for a sealed 10".

Wow, that is really nice info to have. Thank you very much for that. That sub you mentioned sounds like a sweet deal, I will have to look into that closely.

That site is cool, thanks again.

 

[annunaki]

Wow, lots of misconceptions in this thread about driver size and what not. Inductance (Le number you see in the T/S Parameters) on a woofer is usually a good measure of how well the sub does in regards to transient response. The lower the number, the better. As you can see the high fidelity version has an inductance of .95 mH where the high output version is at 1.75 mH. One is not necessarily better than the other so to speak, just two different design goals.

A big reason many people think larger woofers sound "slow" or "sloppy" is that they are not used to the extra amount of deep bass provided by the extra surface area. They are not used to hearing output below 25hz-30hz usually. You can make a 12" sound like a 10" (of the same series and manufacturer) by simply using and eq to cut the louder deeper bass out or toning it down some.

Adire Audio has a great tutorial on inductance and how it affects suboofers and also addressed woofer "speed". I cannot get their site to open to share the link though.

 

[Seth=L]

Wow, lots of misconceptions in this thread about driver size and what not. Inductance (Le number you see in the T/S Parameters) on a woofer is usually a good measure of how well the sub does in regards to transient response. The lower the number, the better. As you can see the high fidelity version has an inductance of .95 mH where the high output version is at 1.75 mH. One is not necessarily better than the other so to speak, just two different design goals.

A big reason many people think larger woofers sound "slow" or "sloppy" is that they are not used to the extra amount of deep bass provided by the extra surface area. They are not used to hearing output below 25hz-30hz usually. You can make a 12" sound like a 10" (of the same series and manufacturer) by simply using and eq to cut the louder deeper bass out or toning it down some.

Adire Audio has a great tutorial on inductance and how it affects suboofers and also addressed woofer "speed". I cannot get their site to open to share the link though.

Thank you for the information Annunaki. I don't mind low loud bass, I am used to it. What I don't like is boominess or a prominence in certain frequency areas.

Now my neighbors on the other hand don't like low loud bass, but that is their problem.

 

[annunaki]

Boominess or prominence is almost always an enlosure design flaw (bump in frequency response) or room interaction. A parametric subwoofer eq can do wonders on even the cheapest of sub systems. Granted, it does have it's limits.

 

[mtrycrafts]

What I don't like is boominess or a prominence in certain frequency areas.
D

As he said, this is speaker design flaw or the room. The room issue you can correct with some test CDs, spl meter and that Behringer digital EQ that you can set any frequency you want to control and most any Q. An amazing EQ

 

[no. 5]

As he said, this is speaker design flaw or the room. The room issue you can correct with some test CDs, spl meter and that Behringer digital EQ that you can set any frequency you want to control and most any Q. An amazing EQ

would you happen to have a link to "that" EQ?

 

[Nuglets]

If I'm thinking of the same Behringer as mtry, search for the Behringer Feedback Destroyer.

Here is what it is...http://www.behringer.com/DSP1124P/index.cfm?lang=ENG

 

[no. 5]

If I'm thinking of the same Behringer as mtry, search for the Behringer Feedback Destroyer.

Here is what it is...http://www.behringer.com/DSP1124P/index.cfm?lang=ENG

thanks Nuglets.
I have helped out with a PA set-up that uses a Sabine feedback controller (but those are far more expensive), would never have thought to use one to help tame room modes.

 

[no. 5]

The room issue you can correct with some test CDs, spl meter and that Behringer digital EQ...

and a pair of 1/4 to RCA acbles.