Which of these Subwoofer Drivers is better?

[Seth=L]

http://www.parts express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-460

http://www.parts express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-462

They look the same but they are different in their ratings. What is the difference between High Fidelity and High Output subwoofer drivers?

It would seem they would be very identical. The High-Output woofer has a 4 layer voice coil instead of the other woofer's 2 layer.

Note that both of these subs look better on paper than the Titanic sub, aside from power handling. The Titanic has 50 watts more power handling than the high fidelity sub. The high output sub has a higher power handling than both.

 

[yettitheman]

haha gramma nazi

nice link



You gotta do it without spaces everyone.

 

[Seth=L]

Oh, ok. I will do it without a space. www.************.com

Strange, it doesn't work.

 

[yettitheman]

wonderful word censor....

 

[Seth=L]

It does this because Audioholics had issues with parts express's aggresive advertising methods, now they block the address. There are ways around it, but I chose not to use them anymore to avoid possible confrontation. So just close the space and be happy about it.

 

[yettitheman]

back on track...

at least it isn't a bose

 

[Seth=L]

back on track...

at least it isn't a bose

Well as bored as I am I am starting to think about building a subwoofer. I am not sure if I want to build a 10" or a 12", but I am pretty sure I want to build one.

 

[yettitheman]

10" ftw.

Be different. Sounds cleaner and less "flubbywhubby"

It won't go as low as a 12"... but that's the M&K's job

 

[Seth=L]

10" ftw.

Be different. Sounds cleaner and less "flubbywhubby"

It won't go as low as a 12"... but that's the M&K's job

That is a common misconception, drivers all stop and go at the same speed. Drivers being faster or slower is a fallacy. What makes the difference is the enclosure, amplifier with sufficient power, and the enclosure. That is not to say a driver doesn't affect the sound of course, but driver slowness is not a real world problem.

 

[Nuglets]

That is a common misconception, drivers all stop and go at the same speed. Drivers being faster or slower is a fallacy. What makes the difference is the enclosure, amplifier with sufficient power, and the enclosure. That is not to say a driver doesn't affect the sound of course, but driver slowness is not a real world problem.

I don't think he's making the point about driver speed. I think "flubbywhubby" implies sloppiness and inability to control a larger drivers movement as well as a smaller one, which I disagree with by the way. A larger driver is able to audibly produce lower frequencies because of the larger surface area and the amount of air it can move but like you said there are many other variables which affect frequency response and loudness. If you are looking at similar drivers that only differ in size and are planning on a similar enclosure for either one you choose I think the larger driver will probably have an easier time getting lower and louder than the smaller one.

 

[tubesaregood]

Yeah, and there's also a little thing called the damping factor. I <3 MY 15" WOOFERS.

 

[mkossler]

Yay for damping factor! It's a beautiful thing...

That being said...

Can you (or someone) explain to me the effect of the larger surface area and driver radius, and its (resulting relative lack of) rigidity, on signal decay and harmonics? Because to my admittedly dim reasoning, there should be a definite and measurable effect. I understand that more rigid materials can be used, but I'm talking apples to apples, driver size-wise.

 

[tomd51]

Fyi...

It does this because Audioholics had issues with parts express's aggresive advertising methods, now they block the address. There are ways around it, but I chose not to use them anymore to avoid possible confrontation. So just close the space and be happy about it.

I could be wrong about this, but I don't think that's the case. I believe it's due to the inappropriate language filter (or whatever you want to call it) Audioholics is using and picking up the 's' from parts and finding it next to the 'ex' in express and won't let you post this phrase.

Instead, you can always use the phrase 'parts-express' in your URL, this will always resolve to the same page as though the '-' wasn't there. For example:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-460
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-462

Enjoy... -TD

 

[j_garcia]

No it isn't a filter, Seth was correct, the linking to the site was intentionally blocked by AH administration.

 

[jonnythan]

You want the HF, not the HO.

 

[jonnythan]

No it isn't a filter, Seth was correct, the linking to the site was intentionally blocked by AH administration.

Why is it blocked?

 

[tomd51]

No it isn't a filter, Seth was correct, the linking to the site was intentionally blocked by AH administration.

Then I stand corrected... -TD

 

[jonnythan]

On the 10 vs 12 issue, the 12 will go lower and produce boatloads more dBs.. but you're looking at an enclosure with roughly twice the volume. The 10 can fit comfortably in a 2cf box, but the 12 requires one closer to 4cf. A 4cf box is pretty large.

Both will do pretty well in a sealed box as well. Put the 12-incher in a sealed box with an amp that has a Linkwitz transform and you can get an F3 down around 25Hz. Not bad.

 

[Seth=L]

On the 10 vs 12 issue, the 12 will go lower and produce boatloads more dBs.. but you're looking at an enclosure with roughly twice the volume. The 10 can fit comfortably in a 2cf box, but the 12 requires one closer to 4cf. A 4cf box is pretty large.

Both will do pretty well in a sealed box as well. Put the 12-incher in a sealed box with an amp that has a Linkwitz transform and you can get an F3 down around 25Hz. Not bad.

Couple of questions, what is Linkwitz? and What size enclosure if it is sealed? I would like to have parameters for both driver's enclosures.

To answer your question Jonnythan. AH blocked it because of Parts Express aggresive advertising techniques. I used the method above (www.parts-express.com) and started a thread on it, because I knew that people were annoyed when they would try to make a link to the site, but it wouldn't work. When I started the thread I was under the same assumption as Tom51, that it had to do with the word "sex". I was wrong and AH admin. posted why it was blocked. At that point I requested the thread be closed, even though it would likely be closed anyway.

 

[jonnythan]

1) Download WinISD. This is speaker modeling software and works very well for subwoofers. You input the driver parameters and its primary function is to suggest enclosure type, tuning frequency, and display a projected frequency response graph. It's indispensible and has several built-in modifiers (crossover, room gain, Linkwitz transforms, etc).

2) I'm not entirely sure what the LT does exactly, but I know it greatly extends low-end response in a sealed box. It's nominally a modification to the amplifier. Rythmik Audio is the primary source for LT kits and plate amps with LTs already added. They also sell a great kit that includes a 350 watt plate amp w/LT along with a very, very good 12" driver for $340 total. You can pick up their 350 watt plate amp with LT installed for, I think, $189. Note that the LT add-on is somewhat specific for the particular driver it's being attached to. If you're handy with a soldering iron you can specify what you need in the LT add-on and they will sell you a kit you can install onto your amp yourself. Their $340 kit (amp + LT + sub) will fit perfectly into a sealed box between 1.7 and 2 cf and give you a -3dB point of around 22-24Hz (compared to 35Hz without the LT). If you want a sealed box, this is probably the easiest and best way to go.

IIRC, you're looking at about 2cf for a sealed 12" Dayton HF driver and 1.4cf for a sealed 10".