What Ohm speaker would i have if I did this...

H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
What Ohm speaker would i have if I did this to my existing 8 Ohm speakers.

I have some towers with 4 "speakers" total - 2 are active (have wires running to them) and 2 passive (no wires they just vibrate).

I want to replace the passive speakers and wire 2 more new speakers (same make and model as the other 2 active) and wire them "inline" to the other 2 active.

What ohm speaker will I have IF I do this?

I have made a handy lil image for illustration purposes.

 
mpompey

mpompey

Senior Audioholic
I think we need a little more information.

What ohms are the current speakers, and what about the ones you are going to be adding in?

But I'll give it a try:

If all your speakers are 8 Ohm then it looks like you are going to have a 2 Ohm load on each channel (8 /2)/2
 
H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
Sorry as I know it gets a little hairy.

They are 8ohm now

I will add the same speaker (x2) from the manufactor so they will all be the same matching x4 speakers. Where as now there are x2 active and x2 passive.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Hawst said:
Sorry as I know it gets a little hairy.

They are 8ohm now

I will add the same speaker (x2) from the manufactor so they will all be the same matching x4 speakers. Where as now there are x2 active and x2 passive.
Those passive speakers are key to your bass response. Removing them will change the sound of the speaker, and personally, would be a bad idea.

Keep them the way they are. If you want a different sound, get a different set.

SheepStar
 
majorloser

majorloser

Moderator
Assuming all of the drivers were 8 ohms, you'd end up with a 2 ohm load. You could run the two drivers hooked up to each crossover channel in series. This would end up with a 8 ohm total load (two 16 ohm loads in parallel).

Now the big question, why would you want to run the woofer and tweeters in parallel prior to the crossover? You wouldn't want to run speakers of different size on the same crossover channel. Kind of defeats the purpose of the crossover.
 
jlcct

jlcct

Junior Audioholic
so what's the goal? Lound and bad quality? Like the sheep said, the box was designed with a goal in mind. You will lose all low end definition. The manufacturer went through a lot of trouble to provide the right environment for the speakers that are active and in doing so they were able to acheive a certain frequency response not to mention size and shape of the box. If you swap the passive to active (which can be done) you will have a box made for one set up and being used for another. If you don't care about how it sounds then o.k. do it. If you do care but want it louder then buy different/more speakers.
 
H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
Thanks for the advice, but this is just one pair of 4 pair in my setup and these are focused for more Mids and Highs. I also have studio 100s for mains and also 2 - 15" powered subs.

So I am not worrying about altering them just want a stronger Mid and Hig sound from them as they are positioned next to my 55" plasma.

Sheep said:
Those passive speakers are key to your bass response. Removing them will change the sound of the speaker, and personally, would be a bad idea.

Keep them the way they are. If you want a different sound, get a different set.

SheepStar
 
H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
Any chance of verbally explaining to me how I can accomplish this?

As in exaclty explain the difference "in series and in parallel"??

How do I have them now, per the image?

majorloser said:
Assuming all of the drivers were 8 ohms, you'd end up with a 2 ohm load. You could run the two drivers hooked up to each crossover channel in series. This would end up with a 8 ohm total load (two 16 ohm loads in parallel).

Now the big question, why would you want to run the woofer and tweeters in parallel prior to the crossover? You wouldn't want to run speakers of different size on the same crossover channel. Kind of defeats the purpose of the crossover.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Hawst said:
Thanks for the advice, but this is just one pair of 4 pair in my setup and these are focused for more Mids and Highs. I also have studio 100s for mains and also 2 - 15" powered subs.

So I am not worrying about altering them just want a stronger Mid and Hig sound from them as they are positioned next to my 55" plasma.
Get new speakers. No point in altering those and making them worthless.

If they aren't what you wanted, why did you get them in the first place?

By the way, what speakers are they?

SheepStar
 
H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
The goal for this pair is to gain stronger mid range out of them. I really dont need more highs so to speak just a stronger frontal mid range.

They speakers have seperate tweeters thus I am not modding anything in regards to the tweeters here, I am only replacing the passive with additional Mids as I see it. yes per the crossover I am getting base out of them but its midrange base which is what I am lacking from the front area of the room.

My 2 - 15" powered subs carry plenty of low end.

jlcct said:
so what's the goal? Lound and bad quality? Like the sheep said, the box was designed with a goal in mind. You will lose all low end definition. The manufacturer went through a lot of trouble to provide the right environment for the speakers that are active and in doing so they were able to acheive a certain frequency response not to mention size and shape of the box. If you swap the passive to active (which can be done) you will have a box made for one set up and being used for another. If you don't care about how it sounds then o.k. do it. If you do care but want it louder then buy different/more speakers.
 
H

Hawst

Audioholic Intern
thank you all for your input. I hope somone can help me understand at this point how to wire them "correctly" so that I dont end up with such a low ohm as in a 2 ohm load. I am not affraid of it but that not what I want in "pratice".

As mentioned in another reply, I may be able to keep the ohm at 8. But I lack the know how to wire it correctly.

I would greatly appreciate someone to show/explain to me as its good knowlege to know.

/salute
 
N

Nick250

Audioholic Samurai
An external EQ seems the next logical step to me.

Nick
 
J

Jack N

Full Audioholic
“midrange base which is what I am lacking from the front area of the room”

I’m not sure I understand what part of the frequency spectrum that you’re talking about. When you say “midrange bass”, I’m going to assume that you’re talking about the middle of the bass frequencies, somewhere between 125hz & 175hz. Correct ?

Because you’re talking about such a narrow band of frequencies, this sounds much more like an acoustics problem rather than a speaker problem – namely ‘comb filtering’. I would like to suggest that you do some research in this area before doing any changes to your speakers. There’s some very good information/videos at www.realtraps.com.

I don’t think your changes will get you the results that you’re looking for. Although adding more drivers to your speakers will alter the sound, I doubt that it will increase the mid-bass like you think it will. The changes you’re proposing will basically do two things – 1) decrease low-bass response with little impact to mid-bass, and 2) alter the loudness balance that you’ve set up with the other speakers in the system. I agree with the other posters that this is not the proper way to solve your problem.

However, if you’re bound and determined to try your idea, this is what you have. In their original configuration, each of the two driven drivers would be 16 ohms (assuming that the manufacturer has both drivers playing the same frequencies evenly) – the amp would see a total load of 8 ohms at the speaker terminals on the back of the speaker as your manufacturer has stated. If you add two more drivers with 16 ohms each (supplied by your speaker manufacturer) and wire them in parallel, the amp will see a total load of 4 ohms at the speaker terminals. This would result in a speaker that plays louder across the drivers’ entire range, not just the mid-bass. If you wire them in series, this would result in an amplifier load of 16 ohms, which in turn would result in a speaker that plays quieter, again across the drivers’ entire range, not just the mid-bass. Either way, all you would be doing is throwing off the impedance and loudness balance with the other speakers in the system. After recalibrating, you probably would still be dissatisfied with the mid-bass.

One of the previous posters suggested an EQ. This may work, it may not. It depends on how severe the comb-filtering is.

As I mentioned earlier, I think you would be better off doing some research on acoustics before altering your speakers. I would think you’d be happier with the end results.
 
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