What aux spkrs to use with 4 Yamaha NS1000M's?

S

steveg

Audiophyte
I have 2 pair of the Yamaha NS-1000M’s that I plan to build a home theater system around. (I’ve had one pair for over 30 years, the other I bought recently off Ebay.) My living room is quite large (about 600 sq ft) so I think it will take them. I am puzzled about where to place them in a 6.1 setup and what to use for the remaining locations. I can probably find 2 more on Ebay if that is the consensus but I’m thinking 6 of them in the same room is quite a bit.

Also, do I need a sub-woofer? I’ve been using them primarily for music up until now but expect that the wider range for movies will require a sub?

For an amp I was thinking of the Yamaha 5790 as it is one of the best priced THX receivers I’ve seen. I have to get a wide screen TV still too but I’m more interested in the sound at this point.

Steve
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
terry@paradise.net.nz

I have 2 set of ns-1000m's in an HT and a Mirage OMC-2 as a centre. This is on the recommendatinos of somebody else in New Zealand with the same speaker setup. One thing though, the OMC-2 is subjectively much less efficient and we both bi-amp it to bring levels up a bit and give even better control.
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
terryr@paradise.net.nz

I have 2 set of ns-1000m's in an HT and a Mirage OMC-2 as a centre. This is on the recommendatinos of somebody else in New Zealand with the same speaker setup. One thing though, the OMC-2 is subjectively much less efficient and we both bi-amp it to bring levels up a bit and give even better control.
 
Yamahaluver

Yamahaluver

Audioholic General
I have the NS-1000x, I only use it for 2 channel music listening with my MX-1000 amp, these are excellent and one of the most accurate speakers but are more suited for nearfield listenign position so I did not have good results with HT setup. For HT I use Yamaha's excellent NS-300 and 300C for front and center and NS-100 for rears and NS-90 for front surrounds.
 
D

dreadstar

Audioholic Intern
surround speakers for Yamaha NS-1000M

I use 2 pair of JBL L1 speakers for my surrounds they consist of a 6.5" and a 1" titanium tweeter. a boston acoustics vr-15 for the center 2 passive boston acoustic 12" subs with my 2 pair of NS-1000M.
The sound is room filling but not loud which is good for watching movies with friends.
I also have a Yamaha SW-160 attached to the DSP A-1 for DTS movies helped alot and it hides well behind the speaker stack.

To drive the NS-1000M i use 2 MX-1000U amps the 2 passive subs are driven using a Soundcraftmen Pro power 8 375 watt per channel amp.

At volume this can shake the house rather well and won many a barracks sound war when i was in the marines.

Hope this helps. For the size of your room you may wish to go with a 3 way ported speaker for your surrounds. the 2 way ported L1 jbl's are the only ported speakers in my setup.
 
Yamahaluver

Yamahaluver

Audioholic General
dreadstar said:
I use 2 pair of JBL L1 speakers for my surrounds they consist of a 6.5" and a 1" titanium tweeter. a boston acoustics vr-15 for the center 2 passive boston acoustic 12" subs with my 2 pair of NS-1000M.
The sound is room filling but not loud which is good for watching movies with friends.
I also have a Yamaha SW-160 attached to the DSP A-1 for DTS movies helped alot and it hides well behind the speaker stack.

To drive the NS-1000M i use 2 MX-1000U amps the 2 passive subs are driven using a Soundcraftmen Pro power 8 375 watt per channel amp.

At volume this can shake the house rather well and won many a barracks sound war when i was in the marines.

Hope this helps. For the size of your room you may wish to go with a 3 way ported speaker for your surrounds. the 2 way ported L1 jbl's are the only ported speakers in my setup.
WOW! I am really impressed, 2 MX-1000 means some serious wattage into those NS-1000M, are you using an external electronic crossover, also did you modify the NS-1000M crossovers for bi-amplification?
 
D

dreadstar

Audioholic Intern
Yamaha NS-1000M crossovers

No I left the crossovers alone in the ns-1000m i use a JBL external electronic crossover the one that sold with the B-460 sub. I loved that but just to BIG. I just wish the DSP-A1 had dual preamp outs like the CX-1000U does. Still looking for an affordable external crossover that has dual preamp outs.
 
morksbeanbag

morksbeanbag

Enthusiast
Yamahaluver said:
WOW! I am really impressed, 2 MX-1000 means some serious wattage into those NS-1000M, are you using an external electronic crossover, also did you modify the NS-1000M crossovers for bi-amplification?
Yamahaluver, i see you've got the NS-300's too, nice one. Did you upgrade the crossovers in your NS-300's? I am doing this right now. At least im making some headway on it. The caps in the NS-300's looked horribly cheap, do i need to replace all components with exactly the same value types or will something close (with 0.2uF) be ok? Is replacing inductors worthwhile and does anyone know whether or not i should keep using the little bypass capacitors (for the treble section).

Cheers.
 

plhart

Audioholic
If you want smaller Yamaha's with voicing similar to the NS-1000s you might want to look search Ebay for the 10" three-way NS-200s or 12" three-way NS-500s. The mids and tweets on the 200 are titanium while the tweet on the 500 is beryllium, same as the 1000s. All three were designed under the leadership of Mr. Nakamura who was Yamaha's main speaker designer in the seventies and eighties.

I would definitely recommend at least two very high power sealed subs for bass duties. The 1000s can put out a lot of SPL when driven hard but start rolling off fairly quickly below~70Hz.
 
toquemon

toquemon

Full Audioholic
I also have a pair of NS-300 and i recommend them widely. They're fine pieces of engineering and they don't need a lot of power to sound good.
I don't understand why you say that they have "cheap" parts, the speakers were the flagship model of Yamaha for many years; and if they had "cheap" parts they would sound colored, become unstable and have other defects that they don't have in the first place.

Talking about the NS-1000, i never heard them, but in every forum i go the people talk about them very good, although it seems they're very hungry speakers.
 
morksbeanbag

morksbeanbag

Enthusiast
toquemon said:
I also have a pair of NS-300 and i recommend them widely. They're fine pieces of engineering and they don't need a lot of power to sound good.
I don't understand why you say that they have "cheap" parts, the speakers were the flagship model of Yamaha for many years; and if they had "cheap" parts they would sound colored, become unstable and have other defects that they don't have in the first place.

Talking about the NS-1000, i never heard them, but in every forum i go the people talk about them very good, although it seems they're very hungry speakers.
I say they have cheap parts because i they do have very cheap and nasty capacitors in the crossover. The inductors are good but the caps are rubbish. Sure i know they were the flagship but yamaha still skimped on the caps. I've been talking with terry from wilmslow audio.com and he i agrees, from an email "The capacitors are all of poor quality and an improvement in sound will be gained if you change these for polypropylene capacitors". I've got plenty of pics of the crossover if you want a look at how bad they are.
 

plhart

Audioholic
Re: "Cheap capacitors" in crossovers: There is a hierarchy of sorts with regards to the type, performance and cost of capacitors used in crossover networks. It goes something like this>>

- non-polar, low voltage, electrolytic cap with DF (dissapation factor) over 10%: bottom-of-the-bucket junk. Most often used in cheap HTIB sytems speakers.

-non-polar, adequate voltage (like 50V or 100V), electrolytic with DF under 5%. Pretty decent cap which will not usually cause the crossover point to vary under differing amounts of power input. Used by most of the big name mid-fi to mid-hi manufacturers usually in systems up to ~$1000/pair.

-mylar film, adequate voltage. Stable with power and sounds "better" than the two above. Most often used in mid-fi & higher speakers in series on the tweeter and the high end (low pass filter) of midranges. Often too expensive to use for the high values required in the woofer or high pass section of midranges.

-polypropylene, adequate voltage: about 30-50% more expensive than mylar film. Does "sound better" in the most skillfully executed crossover designs which can withstand the increased cost.

-combination bypass cap-pairs: Per Vance Dickson's "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" a combination of a good (under 5%DF) electrolytic used as 80% of value along with a mylar used as 20% of required value will yield a cost effective combination which performs almost as well as a pure mylar.
 
toquemon

toquemon

Full Audioholic
morksbeanbag said:
I say they have cheap parts because i they do have very cheap and nasty capacitors in the crossover. The inductors are good but the caps are rubbish. Sure i know they were the flagship but yamaha still skimped on the caps. I've been talking with terry from wilmslow audio.com and he i agrees, from an email "The capacitors are all of poor quality and an improvement in sound will be gained if you change these for polypropylene capacitors". I've got plenty of pics of the crossover if you want a look at how bad they are.
Well, OK, where can i find these polypropylene capacitors and how much would they cost?. Do i need special training to change the capacitors? more specifically, ¿are the capacitors plug & play?.
 
morksbeanbag

morksbeanbag

Enthusiast
toquemon said:
Well, OK, where can i find these polypropylene capacitors and how much would they cost?. Do i need special training to change the capacitors? more specifically, ¿are the capacitors plug & play?.
wilmslow audio do a good range of caps. you'd need...

Musicap 2.7uF x2
wilmslow supersound 6.8 uF x2

Leave the bypass caps as they are. It'd cost about £50.

I wouldn't attempt upgrading your crossover unless you are very confident in your soldering skills, also the crossovers take alot of time to prize out of the cabinets.

Unless your determined and confident you can succeed then i wouldn't do it.
 
D

dreadstar

Audioholic Intern
plhart said:
If you want smaller Yamaha's with voicing similar to the NS-1000s you might want to look search Ebay for the 10" three-way NS-200s or 12" three-way NS-500s. The mids and tweets on the 200 are titanium while the tweet on the 500 is beryllium, same as the 1000s. All three were designed under the leadership of Mr. Nakamura who was Yamaha's main speaker designer in the seventies and eighties.

I would definitely recommend at least two very high power sealed subs for bass duties. The 1000s can put out a lot of SPL when driven hard but start rolling off fairly quickly below~70Hz.

Reason i went with the passive boston 12" subs NS1000M is a sweet speaker but the bottom end is lacking. the 12" subs make nice speaker stands for the 2 pair of NS1000m. The JBL L-1 use a titaninum tweeter so are very bright on the top which tends to blend well with the yamaha's
 
F

Francomusique

Audiophyte
Yamaha B-2x

Yamahaluver, i see you've got the NS-300's too, nice one. Did you upgrade the crossovers in your NS-300's? I am doing this right now. At least im making some headway on it. The caps in the NS-300's looked horribly cheap, do i need to replace all components with exactly the same value types or will something close (with 0.2uF) be ok? Is replacing inductors worthwhile and does anyone know whether or not i should keep using the little bypass capacitors (for the treble section).

Cheers.
Hello,
I came across your post while searching for information about the Yam B-2x, as I recently purchased such amp from Germany, and I notice in your avatar that you have one.
As I want to check it thouroughly before firing it, I'd like to get the service manual, and the schematics.
If you have these, I would be pleased if you could send me a .pdf copy to my PM address.
Later, I shall write my first listening impressions.
 

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