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Steve81

Steve81

Audioholics Five-0
Ratings
2,968 18 1
Condoland, remember?...Due to the problematic nature of bass, I was never ever going put money into something I couldn't in good conscience use. Space is tight too, like I'm maxed out with the 10's.
Yeah I know the condo deal, but consider.....

1. A cabinet like this, basically trading depth for height, could allow you to squeeze in a bit more woofage...

2. With a smaller sealed cab (say 3-3.5 cf),the native F3 isn't going to be all that low anyway, so you don't have to lose sleep over using it as long as you aren't pushing it to the red line. The advantage is that you still get the benefit of improved performance, and the potential for deeper extension is there via the use of EQ.

3. You should still lowball YAA for the heck of it.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
1. A cabinet like this, basically trading depth for height, could allow you to squeeze in a bit more woofage...

2. With a smaller sealed cab (say 3-3.5 cf),the native F3 isn't going to be all that low anyway, so you don't have to lose sleep over using it as long as you aren't pushing it to the red line. The advantage is that you still get the benefit of improved performance, and the potential for deeper extension is there via the use of EQ.
My thought was dual opposed for an inert cabinet not requiring isolation absorbers. I wanted to use 10" drivers. A port was the best way to get me below 30Hz and not needing high spl allowed for a halving of the power requirement which allowed for a 4" tube port IIRC. Two cubic feet was the target ... and that was $500 for four drivers! YAA needs $700. No. No $700. No $500. No build. No Eddies. No finish. No nuthin'. Just no. :D
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Ratings
4,975 43 6
My thought was dual opposed for an inert cabinet not requiring isolation absorbers. I wanted to use 10" drivers. A port was the best way to get me below 30Hz and not needing high spl allowed for a halving of the power requirement which allowed for a 4" tube port IIRC. Two cubic feet was the target ... and that was $500 for four drivers! YAA needs $700. No. No $700. No $500. No build. No Eddies. No finish. No nuthin'. Just no. :D
I mean the CSS SDX 10" drivers are $257 for a pair. For a dual opposed sealed box, they need a cuft, so with bracing and drivers figure 1.75-2 cuft. F3 of 53Hz before DSP. Aluminum and copper shorting rings, 2.3" VC, 6 layer VC, 1" p-p. So there's some heatsinking there for a little DSP to be applied to extend that response. Just a thought since I've been pretty happy with the one I built.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
I mean the CSS SDX 10" drivers are $257 for a pair. For a dual opposed sealed box, they need a cuft, so with bracing and drivers figure 1.75-2 cuft. F3 of 53Hz before DSP. Aluminum and copper shorting rings, 2.3" VC, 6 layer VC, 1" p-p. So there's some heatsinking there for a little DSP to be applied to extend that response. Just a thought since I've been pretty happy with the one I built.
Of course I remember those drivers. The DSP and then presumably larger amp mean even more money. You know I don't know how to use a dsp, right? I've got that DEQ sitting here. It is still a complete mystery to me.

I want you to see the beauty of a sub solution where my living room's low spl requirements allow a simple tube port to eliminate the need for a DSP and anything physically larger than an MA700 which is 300 watts @ 4 Ohm. Think of it, a sub that goes to 90 db. :eek:
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Ratings
4,975 43 6
Of course I remember those drivers. The DSP and then presumably larger amp mean even more money. You know I don't know how to use a dsp, right? I've got that DEQ sitting here. It is still a complete mystery to me.

I want you to see the beauty of a sub solution where my living room's low spl requirements allow a simple tube port to eliminate the need for a DSP and anything physically larger than an MA700 which is 300 watts @ 4 Ohm. Think of it, a sub that goes to 90 db. :eek:
Actually, at the SPL's you're talking, and the reason I suggested this, is that you can get the extension with DSP with nothing larger than the MA700. Because if your low SPL requirements and the fact that you aren't looking for extension into the teens, is what makes this so easy.

With DSP you'd pull down 40-100 or so, boost below that to 25Hz at approx 12db/oct all powered by your MA700. Should be capable of somewhere in the neighborhood of 100db from 26Hz-100+



 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
The advantage over Mark's alignment being the boostable 12db/octave roll off. I see it now. I gotta find that thread and see what spl Mark was projecting with 250 watts. Going from memory, you guys have close to the same F3. I can't remember the output though. I understand and appreciate the extension of sealed. But if I skip the dsp and extension I'm still skirting the more troublesome low frequencies that gets you the evil eye from the neighbors. That's all just talk. The best solution so far is the one in place. It's paid for, it's built, it's in place, it works, no noise complaints so far.

Are you able to show me a power graph? Like, I'm not ordering drivers tonight or nothing. If anything I'm going to try to forget we had this conversation and go enjoy what I spent the last two days monkeying with. The only thing really stopping me from either of those builds is money. I'd like to do them both. I'd like to build 2 of TLS' alignments: one with a tube port and one with a slot port. But I'm a lot like Doug. After doing a bunch of talking I'm just not going to do sh!t other than drink beer and fart. :)
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Ratings
4,975 43 6
The advantage over Mark's alignment being the boostable 12db/octave roll off. I see it now. I gotta find that thread and see what spl Mark was projecting with 250 watts. Going from memory, you guys have close to the same F3. I can't remember the output though. I understand and appreciate the extension of sealed. But if I skip the dsp and extension I'm still skirting the more troublesome low frequencies that gets you the evil eye from the neighbors. That's all just talk. The best solution so far is the one in place. It's paid for, it's built, it's in place, it works, no noise complaints so far.

Are you able to show me a power graph? Like, I'm not ordering drivers tonight or nothing. If anything I'm going to try to forget we had this conversation and go enjoy what I spent the last two days monkeying with. The only thing really stopping me from either of those builds is money. I'd like to do them both. I'd like to build 2 of TLS' alignments: one with a tube port and one with a slot port. But I'm a lot like Doug. After doing a bunch of talking I'm just not going to do sh!t other than drink beer and fart. :)
Something like this? If you click on it it should bring you to photobucket where it's a little bigger

 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
I went and peaked at Mark's alignments. His F3 was 32 Hz. He modeled the dual SDX sealed for me as well. It was my dsp fear that put me off that. Wouldn't it be cool to build a pair of each? His drivers of choice are out of stock currently. That's okay though cause I'ze fresh out of hundred dollar bills.

It's amazing how much better the Infinities sound. Honestly, my subwoofer woes are over unless your demo discs toast one of my drivers or maybe yet another amp. Earlier this week I scheduled another knee surgery so I ain't gonna be buildin' nuthin'. I still lust after it though. It's just ridiculous. My wires aren't even broken in from the last upgrade and I'm already wondering about more.

Like Steve said, let's talk about that 18" of slam because the crazy lady upstairs at the end of the hall might not have ever heard bass in the teens. You guys are trouble.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
Wow, 3 years of not needin' nuthin'. Well, almost three years.

A Behrinder DEQ 2496 that I used to EQ my dual Infinity PS 10 subs with an external amp modification became iffy a while ago so the system is essentially sub-less. Boo-hoo.

Enter Richard Berg who sold me an RBH sub probably a year ago. It's going into the H/T system pretty soon as I've yanked one PS 10 to DATS it to come up with an alignment that needs no EQ. TLS already explained that the dual drivers in the RBH have to stay together in the same cabinet for 6db of gain.

Long story short, the RBH is in the back seat of my truck but not for very much longer. The measurement gear I used for REW is in the front seat of my truck but not for very much longer. The DATS V2 that I still don't know how to use (but not for very much longer) is on my desk.

So ... in a very short period of time there might be pic's, graphs, amps, big big plans ... and of course questions. If you (and you know who you are) know the answers to these questions, you may as well just help out because I'll just PM you if you don't ... or come to your house: I know where some of you live.

There's about to be a rock and roll show and since I anticipate being in need, you're all invited. TIA. :)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Ratings
9,608 68 8
A graph w/ possibly (probably) the wrong resolution (dvd as opposed to cd quality) of the rbh sub in box. I bet it's still pretty close as nothing drastic changed going back and forth (right/wrong) on another sub w/ regards to the impedance curve and I believe the Qts. Anyway it's a graph. Behold.




Soon to come ... a pic of said beast in it's resting place.
 

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