The power draw for each amplifier 1800 watts maximum (at 120 VAC) is from a photo of the rear of the amplifier I found on line at Monoprice / Monolith. Their specifications sheet doesn't list amperage (weak) at all. Even under "Full Specs" it mistakenly lists beside Input Power 120 VAC (nominal). Voltage is not Power!
As a 6 Sigma Black Belt licensed Electrician with an extra year of Electrical Technologist training, and over a decade in IEEE , I caution people on being less than careful with electricity. I've worked on, rebuilt, and tested Industrial Breakers & Relays that kept Hydro Power Stations on line as well as Mine Sites, Pulp & Paper Mills, etc. I've also worked on many other electrical and electronic devices as well.
Residential wiring may seem simple but more folks are killed by it, or a resulting fire, than you can imagine. Residential Breaker tripping is a function of 3 modes - Short Circuit, Instantaneous Overcurrent, and Time Overcurrent. The US National Electrical Code defines overload and overcurrent as any current in excess of the rated current of equipment or the ampacity of a conductor. It may result from overload, short circuit, or ground fault.
One should design circuit protection based on maximum potential loads => not on what is drawn at idle. That's a Fools Game. Breakers are there to safely protect the equipment, cabling, and people. For consumers who want protection just add up the total amperes (amps) each device can draw, and if you exceed the circuit capacity (amps) do the math. Electrical Code safety regulations say you can load a circuit up to 80 percent of its amperage rating. Check your National & Local Electric Codes for guidance if you are concerned.
I hope this is helpful.
