Using a Receiver Without Preouts for Connection to an Amp?

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PearlcorderS701

Banned
I think I see where your going with this.

However in commercial cinemas, why do the sub amps tend to have 3 to 4 times the power of the main speakers ? Even though they tend to have the same sensitivity.

Why is it when companies rate receiver power and don't test using the full bandwidth does the power increase ? I have always been under the impression that the low end bass frequencies demand more power, as well some speakers do demand more at the higher frequencies depending on the impedance curve. But not quite to the same degree in all speakers.

What is the impedance curve like on the RTi12's. Are they a pretty efficient speaker as Polk has stated ? Or are they the power hog's everyone states ?

Thanks for the input. :) I always value your opinion.
First of all, I have been attempting to get a straight answer to the "efficiency" or "quality" debacle concerning the RTi12s since I purchased them -- can't seem to. They're rated at a 90dB efficiency, but some say that's average while others say that's low. The "power hog" arguments come from the fact that they can handle 500 watts each; that's why on the Polk forums you'll see owners duking it out arguing about the fact that these towers simply cannot be powered by an AVR and that a massive power amp is absolutely necessary in the case of the 12s. Still others have insisted that an AVR as weak as the Onkyo 605 is "plenty fine" for these "relatively easy to drive" speakers -- I've even been assured by Polk's customer service that this is indeed the truth.

Now, based on the negative comments being made during this tail end of my thread regarding the RTi12 speakers, I am beginning to wonder if I have indeed wasted my money; I simply cannot get rid of them right now, so I am trying to make them work the best way I can with my current gear. You initially pressed the fact that the 605 is okay to drive these speakers -- now based on what's being discussed above, I am absolutely not so sure.
 
P

PearlcorderS701

Banned
Pearl, do you feel like a dog chasing his tail, it sure seems like it?:eek:
Well, the only reason it would seem this way is because of the conflicting information I keep receiving; it tends to run rampant on these online forums, specifically with the electronics technologies variants, and it's frustrating -- I know people who have given up attempting to get good, solid information this way because of this factor.

Anamorphic has had your back on this from the beginning and hasn’t ever steered you wrong!:D
I never said nor thought he didn't; but now TLS is suggesting various elemental design flaws of the neigh-$1000 speakers I bought (a big deal for me, monitarily, even if it isn't for someone else) and it's making me question the product and purchase.

I completely understand your frugality, but taking shortcuts to achieve the proper end result doesn’t work.:(
You do? That's interesting because I'm not being frugal -- I simply have a budget that's realistic because I just purchased a two-story house. If you're referring to the initial point of this thread, i.e. suggestions for adding an amp to an AVR without preouts, I merely wanted to salvage my 605 not out of frugality but for the fact that outside of its power abilities, I wanted to continue utilizing its elements such as processing and switching.

You’ve made some mistakes trying to put your system together and I think you’re realizing what it’ll take to set things right.:)
How many times do I have to admit that I acknowledge that my sub needs upgrading? Or that my AVR is ridiculously underpowered? Or that my RTi12s are a mismatch for this unit? Or that my center isn't the exact match for the mains? The problem is, you point out how Anamorphic has been attempting to help sort it all out, and that's true to a point, but then he suggests that the 605 is plenty of amp to drive the RTi12s -- so which is it? Which do I believe? This is the reason some make what you call "mistakes," in that the advice is sometimes just so overwrought with constant conflicting information; it's really daunting at the end of the day.

I think everybody has you on the right track now and you need to try and not deviate from the end goal.:cool:
I'm not too sure about that, but let's move on to this:

* The CSi 5/3 are the matching centers for this vintage RTi line.
Is it the 5 or the 3?

* A sub like the SVS PB12-NSD to meet the $600 budget. Maybe add a second later on depending on room size.
Okay...I will check that model out on their site; will it definitely shake a room with better force than my PSW350?

* The Onkyo 1007 has the power to drive the 12s and features needed. A good alternative would be the 7/807 paired with an Emotiva XPA-3.
That's not what I'm reading in the 1007 thread from Scholling -- he actually stated that when he replaced his even higher end Onkyo with external amplification, he experienced an instant increase across the board. So how would the 1007 power the RTi12s okay?
 
P

PearlcorderS701

Banned
I would if he was in Northern California. But I don't think he is.
Let me take a guess...

Outside of Half Moon Bay?

What would make you think, via an online forum where you never even met the person face to face, that I wasn't from Northern California?

I did suggest the RTi8 and CSi5. Which would have been cheaper and easier to drive system. But he really wanted the 12's. He did get a good deal on them though. It's just gonna require more money to get the best out of them.
I told you exactly why I bought the 12s -- it had nothing to do with "really wanting" them at the time. I explained how Frys had them as a closeout as an old model and was selling them for less than what the RTi-A8s cost and that was for a previously top of the line model in this family compared to the entry level tower of the "upgraded" RTi-A line. How could I pass up the 12s then? It didn't seem to make sense to me to pay more for a pair of entry level RTi-As just because they were from a brand spanking new line.

NOW, that said, it is true that it is now going to require a great deal of funds and resources in order to make these sing -- and I can see some people saying "well, that's the reason you should have gone with the RTi-A8s because of performance match to your AVR"...but I simply, again, could not see paying more for an entry level model, I am sorry.

In my opinion I think he is doing pretty good. He just over thinks things. If he gets the center and upgrades the sub he will notice a world of difference. Especially in overall dynamics and visceral impact.
You love to point this "overthink" aspect out -- constantly in fact -- but it still doesn't seem to occur to you or many others that these items are very big purchases for me, personally...I realize this is not everyone's situation, and many of those kinds of enthusiasts are members here, and I salute them for that -- but it's simply not overthinking anything but rather attempting to gain all the knowledge I can about these products and their interplay with one another, and to ensure I make the most efficient decisions I can (which hasn't been a raging success so far). Now, perhaps my budgetary situation dictates that I do not belong on a forum such as this, and for that I apologize to everyone.

As far as the center and sub go, I understand this -- although I feel the most "visceral" impact will come from the better sub. Still, I am having reservations about the 605 efficiently and effectively powering these RTi12s...

Then pick up the receiver to round things out and hes good to go for many years to come.
But didn't you say I'd be "surprised" at what the 605 is "capable of"?

Hopefully he can get some photos posted in the near future as well.
We already established this had nothing to do with trying to get this system well-integrated; I further suggested that I am working on doing so -- if I didn't, that was my mistake.
 
anamorphic96

anamorphic96

Audioholic General
First things first. Stop getting so worked up. Relax a bit. It's just HT equipment where talking about.

Now -

1. You need to realize that when putting together a home theater, it can be done in many different ways to achieve the same result. You will always get different opinions. There is no exact perfect way to do this. You need to go with what works in your system. For instance there is no perfect way to crossover your speakers. TLS Guy feels running them full range is the best way, and he makes some good points. While at the same time the folks at THX feel 80hz is where they should be crossed over. Then you will get some people that feel 40 or 60hz is where it should be done. There is no exact answer. All of the above will achieve great results if executed properly. You just have to experiment and go with what your ear likes.

2. Your 605 is fine for now. Is it perfect for your situation ? No. But it's been working fine for the past few months and will continue to do. You have stated that you don't notice any distortion so it sounds like it's driving them ok.

3. The 12's are probably more difficult to drive than some speakers but nothing really bad considering your 605 is doing an ok job. They seem to bea speaker that work ok with an average receiver but will open up even more once an external amp is attached or a higher end receiver.

4. The CSi5 is the proper matching center. Per the Polk website.

5.
Let me take a guess...

Outside of Half Moon Bay?

What would make you think, via an online forum where you never even met the person face to face, that I wasn't from Northern California?
Because I thought I heard you mention in a previous thread you where from Florida. Nothing to get worked up over. :rolleyes:

6.
I told you exactly why I bought the 12s -- it had nothing to do with "really wanting" them at the time. I explained how Frys had them as a closeout as an old model and was selling them for less than what the RTi-A8s cost and that was for a previously top of the line model in this family compared to the entry level tower of the "upgraded" RTi-A line. How could I pass up the 12s then? It didn't seem to make sense to me to pay more for a pair of entry level RTi-As just because they were from a brand spanking new line.

NOW, that said, it is true that it is now going to require a great deal of funds and resources in order to make these sing -- and I can see some people saying "well, that's the reason you should have gone with the RTi-A8s because of performance match to your AVR"...but I simply, again, could not see paying more for an entry level model, I am sorry.
I was not talking about the RTiA8's. I was talking about the RTi8's from the same series as the 12's. I was also talking about a complete 3 piece package for less than the 12's. Here again. No need to get worked up. You felt the 12's where a better deal. I felt different. As a side note. Just because something is from the top of a product line doesn't make it a better item or purchase. Often times the better product is lower in the line.

7.
First of all, I have been attempting to get a straight answer to the "efficiency" or "quality" debacle concerning the RTi12s since I purchased them -- can't seem to. They're rated at a 90dB efficiency, but some say that's average while others say that's low. The "power hog" arguments come from the fact that they can handle 500 watts each;
Just because a speaker can handle 500 watts does not mean they are power hogs. It just means they can handle alot of power. I would hope so considering the size. The sensitivity and impedance curve are more important. They probably dip to 4 ohms or even a little below hence they are a little more difficult to drive than some speakers. But a decent reciever will do the job ok and in some cases be more than adequate depending on how they are used. However they seem to open up even more with an external amp or upper end receiver. A simple analogy might be your getting 85% of their potential with your current receiver and the other 15% will come with a top notch amp connected. hopefully this makes sense.

Hopefully some of what I said makes sense and not taken the wrong way.
 
AVRat

AVRat

Audioholic Ninja
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=693960&postcount=22

… and you’re also probably feeling like a “wack a mole” as well! As Anamorphic said, please don’t be too offended, we are really trying to help and sometimes our wording can be a little misconstrued.

Frugal – making the most of what you have.

I don’t mean to confuse, and with all due respect to Anamorphic, but either of the CSi-3/5 will match with the 12s. The 12s use the same drivers as the 3.

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/csi3/
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/rti12/
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/csi5/

http://www.onecall.com/product/Polk-Audio/CSi5-Black/Center-Speaker/_/R-28512

Personally, I would only use separate amplification with the 12s or a higher level receiver like the 3/5007 to give the 7” drivers the extra torque they seem to require.
 
anamorphic96

anamorphic96

Audioholic General
I don’t mean to confuse, and with all due respect to Anamorphic, but either of the CSi-3/5 will match with the 12s. The 12s use the same drivers as the 3.

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/csi3/
I agree with you that that 3 will work and it's timbre matched. However he currently has the CSi 3. It's just an older vintage. While not a perfect match it does the job fairly well. It would probably be more of a lateral move.

I'm pushing the 5 because it's so darn cheap at One Call its a no brainer not to pick it up. I also believe in purchasing the biggest matching center as it's dealing with over 70% of the movie and one of the most important speakers one can buy.

and you’re also probably feeling like a “wack a mole” as well! As Anamorphic said, please don’t be too offended, we are really trying to help and sometimes our wording can be a little misconstrued.
I agree with you here as well. Things often times are lost in translation on forums. Pardon the pun. :)

I wish Audioholics had more emoticons to better express intentions.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I told you exactly why I bought the 12s -- it had nothing to do with "really wanting" them at the time. I explained how Frys had them as a closeout as an old model and was selling them for less than what the RTi-A8s cost and that was for a previously top of the line model in this family compared to the entry level tower of the "upgraded" RTi-A line. How could I pass up the 12s then? It didn't seem to make sense to me to pay more for a pair of entry level RTi-As just because they were from a brand spanking new line.

NOW, that said, it is true that it is now going to require a great deal of funds and resources in order to make these sing -- and I can see some people saying "well, that's the reason you should have gone with the RTi-A8s because of performance match to your AVR"...but I simply, again, could not see paying more for an entry level model, I am sorry.
Speakers are not a commodity. You have to look for what you like. It seems you may be about to spend some serious cash.

Before you do I would point out that all speakers are an easy load at low volume.

The point I'm trying to make is that changing the receiver or adding a power amp will not change the crucial mid band response or the tonality of the speaker. So at low to moderate volume those speakers will sound the same whatever you drive them with.

At higher power a more powerful amplifier able to deliver high current into a low impedance load will prevent clipping and preserve the performance of the rest of the speaker at higher power, as well as allowing bass output at higher power. You speakers are low impedance by the way. The three seven inch drivers 8 ohm are in parallel so the impedance above tuning until the 120 Hz crossover is in the three ohm range a lot of the time. If it were not for the internal resistance of the very high value chokes required to make a second order crossover at 120 Hz then the impedance would fall below three ohms.

So before spending a lot more money, listen to your RTi12s at low to moderate volume very critically and decide if you really do like them and can live with them. If the answer is an honest yes, then go ahead and do your upgrades. By the way good speakers maintain good performance when not driven hard. Having to play speakers loud is a big red flag.

If the honest answer is no, you will never be happy with them. In that case my best advice is to sell them and put your money into speakers you really like.

You made a comment about having to make these speakers work, but a speakers is what it is, and ancillary equipment changes will not change a speakers basic presentation.

Your speakers have been replaced by the RTi A9s. The cabinet is a little different. The major change is that the 2.2 K Hz crossover is now third order, (18 db per octave), high and low pass, instead of second order, (12 db per octave). This is likely significant as the mid/tweeter configuration is MTM. An odd order crossover is optimal as the lobing pattern is correct for the speaker layout. So this change is likely significant and one of the issues I discussed with the designer.

The 120 Hz crossover is spread 5 Hz,and not likely significant, but more likely an admission that the mids do not quite reach the 120 Hz crossover point.

Essentially your speakers are small two way MTM book shelves within a passive subwoofer, the bookshelf to sub crossover being 120 Hz.

This is not to say that this is not a valid design concept. However passive subs are inherently problematic because of the huge values of the inductors and capacitors necessary, to build a passive crossover below 350 to 400 Hz.

It makes the use of iron cored inductors mandatory. These types of inductors cause pretty severe distortion at higher powers. The use of electrolytic caps becomes mandatory and these are also problematic in crossovers. It is for these reasons that the industry went to powered subs.
So the design concept of your speakers in my view makes and active speaker design mandatory.

I guess I have given you the long view to suggesting you really take the trouble to really decide if you like those speakers. If the answer is no you will end up changing them anyway and likely after making some further costly expenditures.

People who get the right speakers for them usually keep, and are happy with them over very extended periods of time.
 
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T

tom67

Full Audioholic
Another solution

Get this wonderful 130 watt Yamaha for $699 to satisfy your power lust....then use the phantom center setting to avoid considering a new center speaker...just leave your present center there and pretend.....has pre-outs for addl amp too...Never have to read another painful post here again...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882115139
 
P

PearlcorderS701

Banned
First things first. Stop getting so worked up. Relax a bit. It's just HT equipment where talking about.
I am relaxed, and I am not worked up. I'm just trying to explain my position here.

Now -

1. You need to realize that when putting together a home theater, it can be done in many different ways to achieve the same result. You will always get different opinions. There is no exact perfect way to do this. You need to go with what works in your system. For instance there is no perfect way to crossover your speakers. TLS Guy feels running them full range is the best way, and he makes some good points. While at the same time the folks at THX feel 80hz is where they should be crossed over. Then you will get some people that feel 40 or 60hz is where it should be done. There is no exact answer. All of the above will achieve great results if executed properly. You just have to experiment and go with what your ear likes.
That's fine -- but what he was going into was seemingly much more involved than just "opinion;" it made me second-guess and triple-guess my purchase decision on the RTi12s, and I simply can't go back now for severe monetary purposes.

That said, I've always followed the "don't tax your $500 AVR's amp section more than it has to be thus leave speakers on a crossover, don't run 'em full range" theory that's been bestowed upon millions of members of online forums like this one -- I was advised by members of the Polk forum to keep the 12s on a 60Hz crossover to let them flex a bit of bass muscle while also rolling some material off to the sub. I have also, as you pointed out, played with the crossover settings and can't really audibly discern a great difference between any of them; now granted, I didn't go below 60Hz on the mains, but you get my drift.

Then, the issue becomes what to keep the center and surrounds on; being that I don't have the physical specs for my in-ceiling surrounds, I leave them all on 80...

2. Your 605 is fine for now. Is it perfect for your situation ? No. But it's been working fine for the past few months and will continue to do. You have stated that you don't notice any distortion so it sounds like it's driving them ok.
No, I don't get any distortion -- but I'm really not driving the unit to near capacity as my wife, who normally watches media with me in our HT room, cannot tolerate volume levels of that extreme. Still, I can't help but think of the countless threads on Polk's forums which suggest that no AVR in the world should be driving towers like the RTi12s -- I keep going back to those sentiments.

I understand the RTi12s can handle a maximum of 500 watts RMS each, but the least they should be getting is 50 or so watts -- so I seem to be okay with the 605's rated-on-paper 90 watts for now, even though I realize this AVR's amp section isn't doing nearly this kind of juice. I just wanted to know which elements needed to be upgraded in which order and you basically outlined for me:

1. Sub
2. Center
3. Possibly Amp Power

3. The 12's are probably more difficult to drive than some speakers but nothing really bad considering your 605 is doing an ok job. They seem to bea speaker that work ok with an average receiver but will open up even more once an external amp is attached or a higher end receiver.
Okay, so I've heard -- but Polk's customer service advisors dispatched a message to me with regard to the 12's being "relatively easy to drive" due to the fact that they are an 8 ohm speaker and that their sensitivity is at a 90dB rating.

So, I suppose your statement above with regard to the 12's "opening up" once a higher end AVR or power amp is connected answers my query in the other thread in which I asked you how the 12's are going to "sing" better by just changing out my center and sub...

4. The CSi5 is the proper matching center. Per the Polk website.
Okay.

5. Because I thought I heard you mention in a previous thread you where from Florida. Nothing to get worked up over. :rolleyes:
What? I didn't even mention anything about Florida. :rolleyes:

6. I was not talking about the RTiA8's. I was talking about the RTi8's from the same series as the 12's. I was also talking about a complete 3 piece package for less than the 12's. Here again. No need to get worked up. You felt the 12's where a better deal. I felt different. As a side note. Just because something is from the top of a product line doesn't make it a better item or purchase. Often times the better product is lower in the line.
I disagree that it's "often times" that something is better from a lower-in-line product tier, but that's my opinion based on research I have done -- further, I believe we had this discussion in length, and I remained grounded in my belief, and still do, that it simply made no logical sense to me to buy the RTiA8s (which are their new entry level models in the RTiA line) which were more expensive than the previously top-of-the-line RTi12s when I was told there were absolutely no great technical and performance differences between the two lines. It just made no sense to me; now, I do understand that you are pointing out here that you were suggesting a model from the RTi line from which my 12s originated, but the store that I purchased the 12's from didn't have any older vintage RTi8's on hand -- just the RTi12's, or the full line of newer RTi-A's.

Are you suggesting that the RTi-A's -- no matter where their designation in the lineup, even entry-level -- will absolutely, positively outperform the RTi12 line?

7. Just because a speaker can handle 500 watts does not mean they are power hogs. It just means they can handle alot of power. I would hope so considering the size. The sensitivity and impedance curve are more important. They probably dip to 4 ohms or even a little below hence they are a little more difficult to drive than some speakers. But a decent reciever will do the job ok and in some cases be more than adequate depending on how they are used. However they seem to open up even more with an external amp or upper end receiver. A simple analogy might be your getting 85% of their potential with your current receiver and the other 15% will come with a top notch amp connected. hopefully this makes sense.
Okay, perhaps "power pigs" was not the right phrase to embelish the 12's with -- it was an emotional, surface-coated insight to my sentiments regarding these speakers. I realize that ohm and sensitivity ratings have more to do with the "power hog" or "pig" reference, hence why 4 ohm or so speakers are often relegated to this realm -- but it just seemed that because they can handle the 500 watts each, they "want" to suck power and juice from an AVR, especially one as "low powered" as my 605. Again, these were surface insights.

Hopefully some of what I said makes sense and not taken the wrong way.
I am merely responding to the conversations we have been having, and have decided to ignore the downright asinine statements regarding "hopefully we won't have to endure any more of these painful threads" or whatever it was that was said after these posts -- furthermore, I don't feel like a "whack a mole" or whatever 'Rat decided to choose as "comment du jor;" I am merely attempting to figure out the best route for making all this gear work most efficiently.
 
P

PearlcorderS701

Banned
I agree with you that that 3 will work and it's timbre matched. However he currently has the CSi 3. It's just an older vintage. While not a perfect match it does the job fairly well. It would probably be more of a lateral move.

I'm pushing the 5 because it's so darn cheap at One Call its a no brainer not to pick it up. I also believe in purchasing the biggest matching center as it's dealing with over 70% of the movie and one of the most important speakers one can buy.

I agree with you here as well. Things often times are lost in translation on forums. Pardon the pun. :)

I wish Audioholics had more emoticons to better express intentions.
Do you see why, now, there is so much confusion and utter complexity of choice once multiple opinions are added to the already stirred pot?

I am currently using a CSi30 -- now, is it being suggested that yet another CSi3 can be utilized with the RTi12's, or are you sticking to the "CSi5 is the definite way to go" guns?
 
anamorphic96

anamorphic96

Audioholic General
Okay, so I've heard -- but Polk's customer service advisors dispatched a message to me with regard to the 12's being "relatively easy to drive" due to the fact that they are an 8 ohm speaker and that their sensitivity is at a 90dB rating.

So, I suppose your statement above with regard to the 12's "opening up" once a higher end AVR or power amp is connected answers my query in the other thread in which I asked you how the 12's are going to "sing" better by just changing out my center and sub...
Relative being the operative word here. They probably spend a good portion of time at 8 ohms but due dip kinda low at points. But at they same time they are relatively efficient. So a decent well made receiver should be ok to drive them. What you also need to realize is people don't use nearly as much power as they think they do. Most of the time your loafing along at 1 watt or below, and might hit 20 or 30 watt peaks when big explosions hit. Then that's where the sub comes in. The left and right channel is only contributing a portion to the over all spl. The center and surrounds contribute as well. Especially the center. It's just as important as the left and right. Actually the all out best center channel for the 12's, is another 12. But that's not practical in most cases.

To an extent your dealing with guys who most of the time don't need these big *** amps they have. They just think they do. Put them in a controlled listening test with a blind fold and they would probably not here a difference.

Here again this is why I don't think you need anything ridiculous when you upgrade. Just get something that's really comfortable driving 4 ohms loads and your gonna be fine. A receiver that's THX Ultra 2 certified or something like the 707 with one of Emotiva's amps will do the trick.

No offense but I think you know where I stand on this matter now and know what you need. We are more or less just spinning are wheels. Your just gonna have to make a decision on which scenario you feel more comfortable with.

Are you suggesting that the RTi-A's -- no matter where their designation in the lineup, even entry-level -- will absolutely, positively outperform the RTi12 line?
I am not suggesting that. I have not spent anytime with the RTia's. But from what I have read they are a subtle improvement over the RTi lines. But who's to say. Speakers are the most subjective portion of audio. There really is no correct answer. One man's heaven is another man's hell.
 
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anamorphic96

anamorphic96

Audioholic General
Do you see why, now, there is so much confusion and utter complexity of choice once multiple opinions are added to the already stirred pot?

I am currently using a CSi30 -- now, is it being suggested that yet another CSi3 can be utilized with the RTi12's, or are you sticking to the "CSi5 is the definite way to go" guns?
To some extent. But if you look at the website the CSi3 is a timbre match to the 12's and will work. But due to the size of the 12's you want the biggest center in that line. The center is just as important as the left and right. The 3 is more suited to the bookshelf models.

Here again we are kind of spinning are wheels and you know how I feel. The CSi5 is the proper match for your speakers. :)
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I am not suggesting that. I have not spent anytime with the RTia's. But from what I have read they are a subtle improvement over the RTi lines. But who's to say. Speakers are the most subjective portion of audio. There really is no correct answer. One man's heaven is another man's hell.
I agree with all the points you have made.

Either the OP likes those speakers or he doesn't. He will not be the first poster here to buy those speakers and not like them.

The new version of his speakers have third order crossovers between mids and tweeter which for MTM is as it should be.

As I have told him before, speakers are what they are and you can live or not with their sonic signature.

He needs to listen to them carefully in two channel mode, full range, no sub. If he likes them fine, if not he will change them now or later.

No amount of money spent will change their general stance or sonic signature, no matter what amp he buys.

If he does not like them, even if he sells them at a loss, then his best and most cost effective sonic upgrade is to buy speakers he likes.

Next rule about speakers: - never buy them because of a deal, but only because you like them, and believe you can live with them over a long period of time.

Choosing the right speakers is the most important decision you ever make about your system.
 
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