turntable isolation/decoupling

A

analog91

Audiophyte
whats the best way to decouple my turntable sitting on a wooden table? i have two 12" subs in the room and the stylus is picking up a lot of vibration.

turntable feet are rubber but i need something more to kill the vibrations.
ideas?

setup: numark tt-200 turntable, shure m97Xe cartridge
denon avr-1611, polk rti-a4, cs10, 12" polk psw505's
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
whats the best way to decouple my turntable sitting on a wooden table? i have two 12" subs in the room and the stylus is picking up a lot of vibration.

turntable feet are rubber but i need something more to kill the vibrations.
ideas?

setup: numark tt-200 turntable, shure m97Xe cartridge
denon avr-1611, polk rti-a4, cs10, 12" polk psw505's
How big is the table? I suspect your table is acting as a giant sounding board. Also move the table, as it may be over an anti node of a room resonance.

Your turntable is direct drive, and the isolation of belt drive helps to minimize this.

Also your subs may be of the common variety that bloom like crazy.

Out of curiosity today I was in Best Buy Magnolia wasting the salesmen's time. Every sub had far too high a Q and bloomed like crazy. A lot of the speakers did too.

Your problem is multifactorial I suspect.
 
A

analog91

Audiophyte
table is 6' wide, 3.5' tall, 2' deep and is full of drawers. a fairly solid, heavy wood. cant move the table. also, room is carpeted.
subs were fairly boomy but i run them through a parametric eq to fit the acoustics of my room better.
 
A

analog91

Audiophyte
i was looking to find something to put the turntable on, perhaps. i was thinking granite but research leads me to believe thats not the best solution. i replaced my factory slipmat with a cork one. could a corkboard under the tt absorb some of the vibrations?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
table is 6' wide, 3.5' tall, 2' deep and is full of drawers. a fairly solid, heavy wood. cant move the table. also, room is carpeted.
subs were fairly boomy but i run them through a parametric eq to fit the acoustics of my room better.
That is what I guessed. That table is way too big, and I don't care how solid it is.

The first step is to use a much smaller table, about the size of the turntable plinth, and also move it.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
I'm not a vinyl guy, imho, move the table to a space not affected by three acoustic energy.
 
cpp

cpp

Audioholic Ninja
I use two handballs cut in half and each half placed under the feet of the turntable. A lot cheaper than those fancy "isolation pads" and they do the same thing. You can also use them under the table. I say move the table and place something under the table legs and check your subs to ensure their set correctly unless you just happen to like the walls and windows rattling. Also check your stylus pressure( your TT has anti–skate adjustments
Just wondering do you have a wooden floor as well ?)
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Field Marshall
Ok, since folks are sharing their home-brew ideas...and no guarantees this would be effective for your problem.

I used the sink cutout from when we installed new granite countertops, and finished the edges so it looked presentable. I picked up three of those ballistic gel stress balls they often sell in a bucket at the cash register at Home Despot, Staples, etc. Place ballistic gel balls under granite slab, and voila, a non-resonant, high mass platform, decoupled from the furniture it's placed on.
 
cpp

cpp

Audioholic Ninja
ski2xblack
I used the sink cutout from when we installed new granite countertops, and finished the edges so it looked presentable. I picked up three of those ballistic gel stress balls they often sell in a bucket at the cash register at Home Despot, Staples, etc. Place ballistic gel balls under granite slab, and voila, a non-resonant, high mass platform, decoupled from the furniture it's placed on
:cool: its not hard to figure out a simple way to eliminate audio problems using some simple logic. An excellent idea ski2
 
F

FirstReflection

AV Rant Co-Host
All you need is a decoupling device. The DIY "handball" and "stress ball" solutions are fine and inexpensive. Anything that is squishy enough to absorb vibrations, but not so squishy that it can be completely compressed by the weight of the turntable, and not so stiff that it doesn't act as a good shock absorber.

If you don't care too much about the price and you're fine with spending $25-$50, you can go for IsoNodes (You'd want the "Large" size for a turntable) which are definitely over-priced, but are effective and $25, so the over-pricing isn't the end of the world or anything :p

You could also go for an Auralex SubDude Isolation Riser for $50, which, again, you could build or substitue something else for cheaper, but at $50, also isn't the end of the world if the lowest price isn't your #1 priority.

Auralex also has the SubDude HD which is the same thing dressed up a little in velour rather than industrial carpet.

And if your turntable's feet are farther apart than will fit nicely on the 15" x 15" Subdude, there are the larger Auralex GRAMMA and Great GRAMMA

What I would highly suggest is that you not just decouple your turntable, but also decouple your subwoofers. The SubDude, GRAMMA and Great GRAMMA are the perfect choice for decoupling any subwoofer. Just choose the size that will fit your sub. The SubDude is 15" x 15"; the GRAMMA is 15" x 23"; and the Great GRAMMA is 19" x 30".

When a standard subwoofer plays, it physically vibrates. You can easily feel this if you just put your hand on the top of the sub while it's playing. You'll easily feel it shaking. Those physical vibrations go directly into your floor - and regardless of the floor's material (wood, concrete, marble, what-have-you) the floor will vibrate in sympathy. There is no such thing as a completely inert floor!

With the floor vibrating, the floor is connected to the walls, which are connected to the ceilling. Sound vibrations travel VERY easily through any and all of these solid structures, with bass frequencies being the most powerful and easily transmitted. This is the reason why you can so often easily hear bass thumping away in other rooms of the house, even when the higher frequencies are muted. The bass frequencies are literally using the structure of your house to travel. Rather than being conducted via the air, they are now structure-borne transmissions.

So not only will decoupling your subwoofers from the floor help to alleviate your turntable problems, it will also reduce (not completely eliminate, since the structure will still actively vibrate at its resonant frequencies just from interaction with the sound waves that travel through the air and hit the walls, floor and ceiling), but it will reduce - noticeably - the "leaking" of bass into other rooms of the house.

It is my opinion that every subwoofer and tower speaker should be decoupled from the floor. There are instances (for example, when you have a very thick carpet pad) when the subwoofer or tower speaker is already decoupled. But by and large, decoupling helps in almost every situation and it NEVER hurts. At worst, you'd have spent around $50 for no real benefit, which sucks, but you can easily return a GRAMMA and get your money back ;)

Also, contrary to what some publications state, using "spikes" or "feet" of any kind on the bottom of your subwoofer or tower speakers does NOT decouple them. It is the exact opposite! You are now exerting all of the downward force (the weight of the sub or speaker) into just four teeney tiny points! The downward force at each of those four tiny points is now MUCH greater than if the downward force were spread over the much, much larger surface area of the entire bottom of the sub or speaker. So "spikes" or "feet" only serve to couple the sub or speaker even more greatly to the floor, not decouple it. Any publication that states otherwise has it completely backward.

And if you want to ever take things to the next level, consider soundproofing construction for your room. The place to go, without question, for the best soundproofing info is soundproofingcompany.com

Read their articles and library. And heck, give them a call on the phone. All they do is soundproofing and they're happy to talk with anyone who is interested. You'll learn all about decoupling and the other elements of soundproofing.

Hope this helps!
 
A

analog91

Audiophyte
Ok, since folks are sharing their home-brew ideas...and no guarantees this would be effective for your problem.

I used the sink cutout from when we installed new granite countertops, and finished the edges so it looked presentable. I picked up three of those ballistic gel stress balls they often sell in a bucket at the cash register at Home Despot, Staples, etc. Place ballistic gel balls under granite slab, and voila, a non-resonant, high mass platform, decoupled from the furniture it's placed on.
my project in progress:
2x 3/4" granite slabs with layer of cork in the middle. bottom granite sitting on 3 gel stressballs. ill switch up combinations to see what works best.
thanks guys for the ideas.
 
A

analog91

Audiophyte
im going to look into decoupling my subs. that might help too. thanks for the tips. much appreciated.
 
Brett A

Brett A

Audioholic
my project in progress:
2x 3/4" granite slabs with layer of cork in the middle. bottom granite sitting on 3 gel stressballs. ill switch up combinations to see what works best.
thanks guys for the ideas.
Nice.

I found mass worked the best for me. I didn't have much luck with racquetballs or similar. The suspended floors in my 105 year old house are too springy and having the 'table on bouncy balls just caused the arm to bounce across the LP whenever anyone walked across the room.

OTOH, adding mass simply gave, well, more mass to try to move therefore stabilizing the whole rig. O since have put vibration isolation pucks under a lightweight shelf on top of the mass (a bluestone slab). This has given me the best of both approaches.

I look forward to hearing reports of you progress.
 
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