SVS Sub ??'s...

[realzed]

I ordered a mew SVS, SBS-01 system on Saturday and it showed up tonight. I have been looking over the unopened boxes here and notice that the sub instead of being the PB10-NSD as I was told it would be in my questions to Mason at SonicBoom (who was very helpful and took lots of time to answer this and all other of my questions on the weekend) it is labelled as a PB10-ISD model.
I did ask at the time of ordering exactly and specifically what model of sub was shipping and was told by Mason that the NSD was the newer and improved version and that is what I would get...
Anyone know what if any differences between the models there is - both SVS and Sonic's websites also generally state that the NSD is the "newer and improved model" for both the PB10 and PB12 sizes - but aside from that not much more specific info is available?
I am thinking that it should go back at their shipping cost because the NSD model is what they say they sell and it obviously isn't - but I just want to know what I am looking at in the way of differences before I make a stink and halt my payment if that is what is necessary to get some action...
Thanks - Randy

 

[Sheep]

This is something you should take up with SVS and Sonic boom.

And please, use some punctuation. It's very tiresome to read.

SheepStar

 

[Berty52]

The new NSD have a gray driver and the ISD driver is black (wet look)
Look at the attachment, you will see the difference.

Bert

 

[Ron Temple]

It's been stated before on the SVS site and on forums. SVS couldn't improve the 10" version of the TC Sounds ISD driver, but they did want to bring it all in house. The 10" NSD is a clone with the same performance as the PB10ISD. This is not true of the 12" NSD driver, which is an improvement. Don't send the ISD back just ask for some consideration on the price...

 

[j_garcia]

SVS also said some of the packaging and labeling of the subs still said ISD, but they are all NSD drivers currently, so it shouldn't be an issue. You should be able to contact SVS with your SN# and they will know if it is a NSD or not, and most likely it is unless that sub somehow was one of the last ISDs shipped. As Ron mentioned, it won't make any difference performance wise.

 

[Audioholics]

Makes all the difference in the world, though, for fanatical SVS fans if he goes to resell it later... "Oh, you have the OLD model!" lol

 

[tomd51]

Makes all the difference in the world, though, for fanatical SVS fans if he goes to resell it later... "Oh, you have the OLD model!" lol

Sad, but true....

As Ron mentioned and J reiterated, the 10" ISD and NSD are identical from a performance standpoint, so if that's the only reason you'd return it, I wouldn't expect to hear any difference. I would, however, verify from Sonic Boom or SVS directly whether it is the ISD or NSD. If it is the ISD, Sonic Boom should swap it out for you at their expense... -TD

 

[realzed]

Thanks for the replys. I guess I should have checked the contents but it was late when I got the stuff and I only noted the number on the exterior of box. I'll certainly have to dig deeper tonight.
It does appear though that all of the boxes in the shipment have been resealed at some point so anything could have taken place in the way of contents swapping I guess. I must say that I'm not real comfortable with stuff that shows up resealed as it could have been opened at some point for any number of reasons. Things like a return after an especially hard month-long audition and/or warranty return issues are a couple that come to mind, so I'll have to check over everything closely but looks alone won't necessarily say it all obviously.
Even if both models are supposed to be the same ISD or NSD I would prefer the newer version for many of reasons stated by some here, not the least of which is getting what is advertised and what I paid for. - Randy

 

[ggunnell]

Realzed, SVS is not like that.

SVS has posted about using up the ISD labels in their forum at HTSpot. There are lots of PB10s with NSD drivers and ISD labels.

As far as the boxes being resealed, by all means ask the distributor and SVS.
I'd like to think that at least occasionally boxes get opened crossing the border. The distributor may have unpacked some of the first arrivals to check them out. Let us know what you find out

 

[realzed]

Realzed, SVS is not like that.

SVS has posted about using up the ISD labels in their forum at HTSpot. There are lots of PB10s with NSD drivers and ISD labels.

As far as the boxes being resealed, by all means ask the distributor and SVS.
I'd like to think that at least occasionally boxes get opened crossing the border. The distributor may have unpacked some of the first arrivals to check them out. Let us know what you find out

I tried to reply about this the other evening - but again lost my post due to login errors (which occurs to me a lot - only here in this forum). I wanted to relate that I finally had an opportunity to go through my whole shipment.
I hadn't read anywhere that SVS had stated that some of their goods were possibly in mislabelled packaging - but I did find out, that in fact that was exactly what occured in this case when I opened the sub box first. There was a NSD model sub staring back at me from inside an ISD labelled box...
After going through the rest of the boxes I finally satisfied myself that the internal packaging appeared to be 'factory' and undisturbed - so I have to say that I jumped the gun severly on both of these issues...
To SVS and SonicBoom I owe an apology for suggesting (if it as taken that way) that they would send out the wrong or used goods intentionally to their customers.
I was I guess, a bit 'gun shy' after getting a couple of other shipments in the past few months from other manufacturers that had been severly hacked opened with bits and pieces missing due to improper packaging or resealing after being inspected at some point.
All the extra tape on the exterior of the boxes in this shipment I mistook for another reseal effort instead of someone possibly just trying to make sure that my SBS-01 system and packaging remainded intact.
My Bad - as they say these days...

Any idea of what type of reasonably cost-effective wiring would be appropriate for run lengths under 25 feet for one of these systems?

Thanks - Randy

 

[ggunnell]

Glad everything worked out, Randy!

You will probably be fine using a 25' coil of cable TV / antenna coax if you can find some 'F' to RCA adapters. For a 25' run I'd go for the RG-6 or even quad shield over the stock RG-59 to reduce hum/radio/TV etc. pickup.

Monoprice.com is often recommended as an inexpensive online cable source.

Generally any audio interconnect cable will work -- because sub cable are often very long they are more likely to pick up electromagnetic interference, so if you have a choice pick a cable with a good shield -- if an end is exposed, and the cable has either two braided shields or a braided shield and a layer of foil around the inner dielectric you should be in excellent shape.

Edit: I notice the SonicBoom (SVS dist. in Canada) web site does not show the Better Cables products SVS discounts here. If you are interested in higher quality interconnects, you might look on svsound.com and read the reviews of the Better Cables products.

 

[sholling]

While I have a hatred for spending a ton on cables, I’m also not a “I won’t pay for quality bigot”. I run $0.25/foot monoprice.com 12ga to my mains and center, and 14ga to my surrounds. Subwoofer cables are a different story. Because cheapies can pick up spurious signals I like to go with a high grade product here. Blue Jeans Cables sell some very high quality products for a very reasonable price.

 

[realzed]

Thanks for the replies - I'm probably just going to get a roll of good 12 AWG speaker wire and do my own thing to save some dollars. I'm amazed by the price of some of the wire sets available. I wonder if the cost really justifies the sound or whether it one of those 'I paid a lot so I know I can hear the difference" deals, with many who choose the high dollar route...
Anyway, can anyone advise me if its best to use RCA (banana type) plugs on for both receiver and speaker ends of any wires I may do up, or is a binding post type of deal as good or better with less hastle? If the binding post situation works well and creates no added resistance should the wires be terminated with twisted / soldered ends to keep everything better intact or would the solder increase the resistance?
Many of the crazy expensive wire sets I have seen have huge gold plated banana plug ends which although they help justify the price visually, appear as though they could be a hinderence for any close quarter installations.
The sub wire/shielding reccomendations are well taken and I assume from what I have read over the past few weeks that it is not the place to cut corners, so a decent quality wire purchase at that point could pay some dividends. Thanks Randy

 

[MDS]

Binding posts accept bare wire, spades (look like a U), pins, or banana plugs. Banana plugs are the most convenient for easy connect/disconnect but may present a problem for close quarter installations as you put it.

The sound quality will be the same regardless of which approach you use.