Subwoofer repair questions.

[CVRIV]

Hello everyone. I have this subwoofer that broke about a week ago. I emailed the company that I bought it from to ask about purchasing a replacement and that would basically cost me $300 +SHIPPING US dollars. That's something I really don't want to do.

It's a 10" woofer from a Adams Audio Sub 10 MKII. What broke is the spider damper, I think it's called. It broke away from around the tube thats attached to the cone? I dont know much about speakers and all that. What I do know is how to work with my hands. I havent taken it apart yet.

Does anyone know where in the states, preferably, I could buy a new spider damper? Also, what type of glue is used to get it all together? Anything else I should know?

I attatched an image. I had to drop it down a lot to get the file size down to attach it. If there's anything you could tell me that would be great.

 

[shadyJ]

You can try to fix that with this stuff, but I wouldn't expect too much. If the cone was overdriven so badly that the spider detached from the former, it may no longer be aligned correctly anyway. If it were me, I would just order a new driver, or a entire moving assembly piece at least.

 

[CVRIV]

Whats the driver? I don't know if the company will sell me parts. How hard would it be to install a new spider damper? I have to keep that tube in there aligned so that it doesnt rub inside the magnet?

This happened while I was watching a movie. I forgot what movie I was watching, but apparently is had some stupid low frequencies because the cone was flexing in and out real far. when I saw this I turned the woofer down but then noticed I just had to turn it off.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

lol

The driver is the speaker assembly.

 

[everettT]

Were they quoting you for a whole replacement or just the driver? If its whole and you like the sub, it seems fair. If for just the driver not so much.

Is the sub ported or sealed?

 

[CVRIV]

They were quoting me for just the speaker. The whole Sub is about 1500 now. I got it for 1000 a long time ago.

I don't know much about the actual speaker. I'm wondering if there's an equivalent for less that's just as good? I don't mind spending some money... I just didn't want to drop 300+ without considering my options.

Any suggestions? The opening to the box is 10.25".

 

[everettT]

Will they send you the Theil Small parameters? Possible you can use a another driver. I'd contact parts express and see what they think. 300 for a 10" driver is very pricey.

This one is an example. I'm sure EQ is applied via the adam amp, so they can give you some direction
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

 

[CVRIV]

Wow. That one nearly looks like the one I have now. I think it's overall diameter is a tiny bit to large though at 10.4". How much of difference would it make if the specs weren't exactly the same? Would I know the difference?

I got these specs from the User Manual:
Subwoofer 260 mm / 10“
Voice coil ø 50 mm / 2“
Woofer material coated paper
Built-in amplifiers 1
Subwoofer channel 1/2 200 W / 300 W
Frequency response 25 Hz - 150 Hz
THD >60 Hz ≤ 1%
Max. peak ≥ 113 dB
Crossover frequency 50 - 150 Hz
Inputs XLR / RCA
Input impedance 10 kΩ
Weight 21 kg / 46.3 lb.
Height x Width x Depth 560 x 300 x 400 mm / 22“ x 12“ x 15.5“
Warranty 5 years
Operating temperature 0° C to 40° C (32° F to 104° F)
Storage temperature -30° C to 70° C (-22° F to 167° F)
Humidity Max. 90 % not condensing

 

[everettT]

Thanks. It's the T/S parameters that matter. In a sealed box it's easier to replace with different drivers. Contact Parts Express and see what they think.

 

[CVRIV]

I emailed them. We'll see what happens I guess.

 

[everettT]

You could build a new 10" for around 300 that would perform as well or better than the Adam if your so inclined.

 

[CVRIV]

I would love to build one on my own, even fix the one that I have, but I think I'd rather just replace right now. I'm taking classes so my time is limited.

 

[TLS Guy]

Hello everyone. I have this subwoofer that broke about a week ago. I emailed the company that I bought it from to ask about purchasing a replacement and that would basically cost me $300 +SHIPPING US dollars. That's something I really don't want to do.

It's a 10" woofer from a Adams Audio Sub 10 MKII. What broke is the spider damper, I think it's called. It broke away from around the tube thats attached to the cone? I dont know much about speakers and all that. What I do know is how to work with my hands. I havent taken it apart yet.

Does anyone know where in the states, preferably, I could buy a new spider damper? Also, what type of glue is used to get it all together? Anything else I should know?

I attatched an image. I had to drop it down a lot to get the file size down to attach it. If there's anything you could tell me that would be great.

If you are used to repairs, you could recone that driver. You will need the cone which comes with attached surround, VC and spider. You will need a new dust cap, factory shims to align the VC in the gap, and loudspeaker glue. It is not that difficult. Parts Express are pretty hopeless in recommending replacement drivers and make nonsensical recommendations.

That sub has a down firing port. So the enclosure will be designed for that driver only. It seems a really well made driver with high excursion. I think $300 is a very reasonable price for that driver.

Any replacement driver will not work unless it has the exact T/S parameters, unless the cabinet is rebuilt. Unless you know the T/S parameters of that driver you can not begin to look for a replacement.

Since you have destroyed what looks to me to be a very well made powerful driver, then I think you are actually looking for a more powerful sub. I see that sub is aimed and sold to the pro studio market mainly.

That spider you have destroyed looks much more robust then typical offerings.

If you just replace it with another non identical driver you will, not might, waste your money and be further behind.

If you do replace that driver with the correct one from Adams, then you will need to play at a lower volume. If you are unwilling to do that, then you need a bigger and more powerful sub. That will cost you more. You could also build a sub. Those are your only options that will have success.

 

[CVRIV]

If you are used to repairs, you could recone that driver. You will need the cone which comes with attached surround, VC and spider. You will need a new dust cap, factory shims to align the VC in the gap, and loudspeaker glue. It is not that difficult. Parts Express are pretty hopeless in recommending replacement drivers and make nonsensical recommendations.

That sub has a down firing port. So the enclosure will be designed for that enclosure only. It seems a really well made driver with high excursion. I think $300 is a very reasonable price for that driver.

Any replacement driver will not work unless it has the exact T/S parameters, unless the cabinet is rebuilt. Unless you know the T/S parameters of that driver you can not begin to look for a replacement.

Since you have destroyed what looks to me to be a very well made powerful driver, then I think you are actually looking for a more powerful sub. I see that sub is aimed and sold to the pro studio market mainly.

That spider you have destroyed looks much more robust then typical offerings.

If you just replace it with another non identical driver you will, not might, waste your money and be further behind.

If you do repair that driver with the correct one from Adams, then you will need to play at a lower volume. If you are unwilling to do that, then you need a bigger and more powerful sub. That will cost you more. You could also build a sub. Those are your only options that will have success.

Ok. Fine. I'll just fork up the money for a replacement. I didn't have the volume up on the sub to high. Actually I always keep the sub volume way down because if I don't, my whole apartment vibrates. I think it tore when I was watching a movie. Again, I didnt have the volume up loud at all. This one particular movie must of had some low frequency sounds or something going on because the woofer had a hell of a lot of movement with very little bass sound coming from it. I had to turn the sub volume completely off to keep it from doing it, but at the point it was to late.

 

[ryanosaur]

Gotta ask... What movie?
Not that I wanna blow a sub, but what you describe is some serious infrasonic programming.

 

[TLS Guy]

Ok. Fine. I'll just fork up the money for a replacement. I didn't have the volume up on the sub to high. Actually I always keep the sub volume way down because if I don't, my whole apartment vibrates. I think it tore when I was watching a movie. Again, I didnt have the volume up loud at all. This one particular movie must of had some low frequency sounds or something going on because the woofer had a hell of a lot of movement with very little bass sound coming from it. I had to turn the sub volume completely off to keep it from doing it, but at the point it was to late.

Well that is not a very big sub and aimed at the studio market. Now that sub goes down to the high twenties. Now a ported sub decouples from the box below tuning and then you get massive cone movements that produces no sound. Obviously that sub does not have a high pass filter to prevent damage. A lot of movies now have loud sound and energy below 20 Hz even. That is what destroyed that driver.

So if you don't install a high pass 12 db per octave slope filter, that movie or similar will destroy the driver again.

Talk to Adam about this and see what they recommend.

 

[CVRIV]

I think it was that movie American Made? Not sure. Anyways, the funny thing is that I'm an Electronics engineering student. You're referring to a first-order HPF. I'll ask Adam Studios about it once I order the new driver.

 

[TLS Guy]

I think it was that movie American Made? Not sure. Anyways, the funny thing is that I'm an Electronics engineering student. You're referring to a first-order HPF. I'll ask Adam Studios about it once I order the new driver.

I think it was that movie American Made? Not sure. Anyways, the funny thing is that I'm an Electronics engineering student. You're referring to a first-order HPF. I'll ask Adam Studios about it once I order the new driver.

The professor has to correct your work. Orders are 6 db per octave for audio filters. So 6 db is first order and 12 db is second order, 18 db is third order and 24 db is fourth order and so on.

 

[CVRIV]

LOL. You right. Second-Order. He'd whoop me if he saw this. LOL. 6db per octave and 20db per decade and it doubles as you increase the order. Yup.