<font color='#000000'><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> If your subs have built in crossovers as I suspect most of them do, then all you have to do is connect your receiver's amp section to the sub and then take the connection from the sub to your main speakers.
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This could be a recipe for disaster, especially if the sub is rated at 4 Ohms. You can easily overdrive a receiver's amplifier into clipping and/or protective shutoff.
In the case of unpowered sub(s) I would recommend a separate power amplifier for the sub(s) instead of the receiver's amps, or as you indicated get powered sub(s).
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BTech,
The sub's crossover is there as an alternative to using the internal crossover in the HT processor. Many subs have a switch that turns off their internal crossover completely. If they don't then you simply turn the sub's crossover up to it's highest setting when using the crossover in the HT processor.
For example, to use the sub's internal crossover you could feed the L&R LINE-OUT from the HT processor to the sub first, and then use the L&R LINE-OUT from the sub to the L&R LINE-IN of the amplifiers for the main speakers. This could also work with receivers if they have L&R PRE-OUTs and L&R AMP-INS.
This means in the HT processor you must set sub=no, mains=large and set the sub's crossover frequency between sub and mains to blend them where they sound the best.
A good crossover starting point is to set the sub's crossover an octave above the mains -3dB low frequency spec, but this does depend on what type of crossovers the sub uses.
An example of the octave above the mains -3dB;
mains -3dB = 30Hz
sub xover set to 60Hz</font>