Subwoofer acustic Premier saurce Dead?

[ivtec]

Hi guys, i have here a sub woofer that is dead i don't see nothing wrong with the amp i already replaced a small cap that was dry out ,i also suspect t the coil on the speaker itself is opened ,i put my Dm across the sub woofer terminals and reed no ohms or continuity with the diode test,i'm not any good with audio stuff i'm more inclined to TV,i'm also waiting on the two 10000 63v big caps that are suspected,i tested the amp and everything seems right,can someone lead me the way thanks in advance.

 

[bikdav]

Will This Help?

It sounds to me like the speaker driver itself died "quietly". I'd try hooking up another driver in place of the existing subwoofer driver and seeing if you get any sound. Don't crank it up loud, because remember we are dealing with deep bass here. What you want to find out is which component is faulty. If you get sound, the amp is fine. Therefore you'll need replace the subwoofer driver itself. Seeing that the exact "o.e.m." replacement may not be available, your best recourse would probably be to buy a good car audio subwoofer to replace the old driver. IF the old driver has its impedance stamped on the driver [4 ohms, 8 ohms], your search has just been simplified. If the old driver is 4 ohms, you have lots of choices. If it is 8 ohms, you may have to buy a dual voice coil sub and wire the voice coils in series to get 8 ohms _ two 4 ohm coils in series will net 8 ohms. That's not a 100% ideal set up, but it will work extremly well.

 

[TLS Guy]

It sounds to me like the speaker driver itself died "quietly". I'd try hooking up another driver in place of the existing subwoofer driver and seeing if you get any sound. Don't crank it up loud, because remember we are dealing with deep bass here. What you want to find out is which component is faulty. If you get sound, the amp is fine. Therefore you'll need replace the subwoofer driver itself. Seeing that the exact "o.e.m." replacement may not be available, your best recourse would probably be to buy a good car audio subwoofer to replace the old driver. IF the old driver has its impedance stamped on the driver [4 ohms, 8 ohms], your search has just been simplified. If the old driver is 4 ohms, you have lots of choices. If it is 8 ohms, you may have to buy a dual voice coil sub and wire the voice coils in series to get 8 ohms _ two 4 ohm coils in series will net 8 ohms. That's not a 100% ideal set up, but it will work extremly well.

You can't replace drivers like that. Each driver has unique T/S parameters.

The enclosure dimensions and porting are specific for a given driver.

It sounds as if his woofer voice coil is fried.

Connect a 1,5 volt battery across the woofer terminals and see if the woofer cone moves on and out as you make and break the circuit. If it does not move in and out the woofer is fried.

 

[ivtec]

Thanks for your help,the way you you explained no doubt the woofer is dead,the driver doesn't have nothing stamped on the back as i don't know if is 4,2,8 ohms,i already tried the 9v battery trick and no response, i also connected the woofer terminals to a receiver and nothing,so is certain that is fried,thanks a bunch for your help.

 

[bikdav]

I Know, But ......

You can't replace drivers like that. Each driver has unique T/S parameters.

The enclosure dimensions and porting are specific for a given driver.

It sounds as if his woofer voice coil is fried.

Connect a 1,5 volt battery across the woofer terminals and see if the woofer cone moves on and out as you make and break the circuit. If it does not move in and out the woofer is fried.

I realize that in an ideal situation, that would be the thing to do. But, such information is not always available. So, many times we need to abandon our audiophile attitude and doctrine and just focus on getting things to work again. I also found _ by my own doings _ that exact box to subwoofer matching is futile.

 

[TLS Guy]

I realize that in an ideal situation, that would be the thing to do. But, such information is not always available. So, many times we need to abandon our audiophile attitude and doctrine and just focus on getting things to work again. I also found _ by my own doings _ that exact box to subwoofer matching is futile.

That is nonsense. Doing that all you are doing is producing noise.

It is essential to match driver and box, not futile.

Going about things your way, you would be better off just listening to the speakers in the TV.

Throwing a woofer in any box without science, is the "Red Neck Audio" solution.

 

[annunaki]

The next steps here, assuming one would like to salvage the enclosure & amplifier, would be to understand what impedance the original driver was. This will probably be the most difficult and may take a fair bit of time to research.

Then the next step is to take some internal measurements of the enclosure and also to get measurements of the vent (internal diameter & length).

Once you have the dimensional info, please post so we can see what type of internal volume you are working with and MAY be able to recommend a suitable replacement to work in that volume. This is a much better approach rather than taking a complete guess.

Another question to ask here is, What did you pay for the original complete subwoofer?