Sub amp buzzing in DT tower

T

tdalej

Audiophyte
Hey folks. New to the forum here but I have been following for quite some time as well as the YouTube channel. I would like to get your opinions on an issue I'm having and a possible solution I'm thinking about.

The amp in one of my Definitive Technology BP-8060ST towers has been buzzing for about a month now. I swapped the towers to confirm it is isolated to the tower and not some connection issue. The buzzing gets very annoying during movies, so it's time for a solution.

I was considering purchasing a subwoofer (maybe SVS PB-1000 Pro Subwoofer) to handle the bass. I would disconnect the power to the DT towers for bass and continue to connect my receiver to the towers for highs and mids only and manage the bass crossover from the SVS app. This way I could still use most of the speakers in the towers and probably get better bass from a dedicated subwoofer.

What are you thoughts on this approach? Thanks!
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hey folks. New to the forum here but I have been following for quite some time as well as the YouTube channel. I would like to get your opinions on an issue I'm having and a possible solution I'm thinking about.

The amp in one of my Definitive Technology BP-8060ST towers has been buzzing for about a month now. I swapped the towers to confirm it is isolated to the tower and not some connection issue. The buzzing gets very annoying during movies, so it's time for a solution.

I was considering purchasing a subwoofer (maybe SVS PB-1000 Pro Subwoofer) to handle the bass. I would disconnect the power to the DT towers for bass and continue to connect my receiver to the towers for highs and mids only and manage the bass crossover from the SVS app. This way I could still use most of the speakers in the towers and probably get better bass from a dedicated subwoofer.

What are you thoughts on this approach? Thanks!
We have had this before, as the amps in those speakers are absolute junk and no parts are available. They all give trouble sooner rather than later. Most sooner rather than later.

To be honest those speakers are in the worthless junk category. There is no solution to your problem other then new speakers. The reason is that those mid drivers are also cheap junk and have to be offloaded in their lower range to the bass drivers, which do not count as subs as they don't go low enough.

So now is the time to send thoss speakers to the recycling center and go speaker shopping for much better speakers.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Are the amps in use if you don't use the sub pre-out connection? If so, I'd just avoid the annoyance of the amp buzz until I get a proper sub.
 
T

tdalej

Audiophyte
Are the amps in use if you don't use the sub pre-out connection? If so, I'd just avoid the annoyance of the amp buzz until I get a proper sub.
The only way to stop the buzzing is to unplug the power cord to the sub amp.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Are the amps in use if you don't use the sub pre-out connection? If so, I'd just avoid the annoyance of the amp buzz until I get a proper sub.
The answer in your question is yes, they are. You can not use a sub to replace the bass driver, as the mids are also offloaded to that bass driver. It is actually not a sub, but a bass driver. F3 is 32 Hz.

So those speakers are really tower speakers with an active bass section they are also bipolar with rear drivers. To be honest, they are an absolute amateur hour design.

With no amps parts available the speaker is useless for anything. We have been through this before.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
The answer in your question is yes, they are. You can not use a sub to replace the bass driver, as the mids are also offloaded to that bass driver. It is actually not a sub, but a bass driver. F3 is 32 Hz.

So those speakers are really tower speakers with an active bass section they are also bipolar with rear drivers. To be honest, they are an absolute amateur hour design.

With no amps parts available the speaker is useless for anything. We have been through this before.
Never a fan of these speakers let alone them having "subs" but thought the amp could be bypassed when using them as normal speakers....but do they act differently if not using the "sub" input on the speakers and just using them as normal passive speakers? Or the amp must be plugged in for even that?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Never a fan of these speakers let alone them having "subs" but thought the amp could be bypassed when using them as normal speakers....but do they act differently if not using the "sub" input on the speakers and just using them as normal passive speakers? Or the amp must be plugged in for even that?
The amp has to be plugged in. So you can not just pull the plug and use a sub as half the crossover to the mids is missing.

It is a three way system with a powered bass section and in no way the same as a speaker and sub.

The exact analogy is to take a three way speaker and disconnect the bass driver and hook up a sub. That won't work.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
The amp has to be plugged in. So you can not just pull the plug and use a sub as half the crossover to the mids is missing.

It is a three way system with a powered bass section and in no way the same as a speaker and sub.

The exact analogy is to take a three way speaker and disconnect the bass driver and hook up a sub. That won't work.
So even when people aren't using the LFE/sub pre-out connection, you must plug the amp in....the drivers cannot work off your main amp power alone?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
So even when people aren't using the LFE/sub pre-out connection, you must plug the amp in....the drivers cannot work off your main amp power alone?
That is correct because the bass driver is not just handling the sub and LFE output. It is incorrect to think of the side driver as a sub. It really is not. It is the bass driver of a three way system that also mixes in the sub and LFE.

It is somewhat similar to the way I designed my dual TLs. One of the drivers in the bass line also handles the BSC for the mids to offload them, but both of those lower drivers handle the sub output and the LFE. So if you just replaced the long line drivers with a sub it would not sound correct.

The difference is that one of the inputs is derived from a speaker level output. In my case there is a mixer circuit I designed with a buffer amp to blend the BSC from an electronic crossover and the sub output from the AVP. So mine is a more professionally designed system.
 

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