Streaming from computer to Preamp/Streamer getting numerous breakups/blackouts.

[highfigh]

After much struggling, I was finally able to get the computer to understand that I have a 3.5 AUX line plugged into the headphone jack. I don't know what was up with Windows. Anyway, I have a long wire and plugged it into an RCA adaptor for the line-in on the NAD. The gain is really low. I've adjusted it in Windows so that it will max when iTunes is playing. It works. No buzz but I can't get the volume like I do over the 3 wifi methods. Perhaps I need a better cable?

But I also couldn't get the volume when I plugged my FIIO straight into the adaptor with only about 3 feet of length.

However, I'm not terribly keen on having my computer sounds going through the stereo. I don't wants "Doings" when I press a wrong button going though the stereo.

At the moment The NAD/BluOS is still being zippy.

You should be able to control what audio comes out of where by going into the settings for the sound card. The gain can be controlled there, too. When you connect the 3.5mm plug, does a box show up on your screen with these controls?

 

[Trebdp83]

Lots of talk about files and iTunes but no specifics. What is this notebook exactly? Windows version? iTunes for Windows or Apple Music for Windows app? It all matters.

If you are playing purchased and downloaded material in iTunes, I’d use the iTunes remote app on a Smart device for music selection. The Smart device will be just that, a remote controller. The notebook will Airplay music directly to the selected device.

However, if using the Apple music app to stream music that has been added to your library but has not actually been downloaded, you will be at the mercy of your current internet speeds for quality. In this case as well, the Smart device with the iTunes Remote app is just that, and music is sent directly to the selected device from the notebook.

I wouldn’t be concerned with a wired connection vs Airplay to the NAD for iTunes or Apple Music. While the NAD supports hi-res, unless it received a firmware update, it does not support hi-res ALAC. Many new AVRs have 24/96 limits for ALAC over network and USB connections and the coaxial and optical ports on many new AVRs have 24/96 limits altogether. Apple added hi-res and then made it extremely difficult to transmit from one device to another for no good reason.

 

[Eppie]

I find it odd that the weather would affect the internal network. It should only affect the internet connection from your provider (to the router). That would affect internet streams from Apple iTunes and others like Spotify or Tidal but files on your laptop should be unaffected. WiFi signal strength can be decreased in the rain but that would only affect the reception outdoors. I assume that the signal paths from the router and the extender to the audio gear are all indoors. Changing the orientation of the WiFi antenna on the NAD might help but I have not found this to make a big difference in my setup.

Running cables in a finished basement can be a pain but all you need is one cable to the cabinet and then you can use a small 1GB network hub if you have more than one device.

 

[jinjuku]

Today run a speed test to Ookla. Both wireless and wired using the same workstation/computer.

When it rains tomorrow run a speed test to Ookla. Both wireless and wired using the same workstation/computer.

Are your cell phone's bars WIFI bars or CELL TOWER bars?

 

[crazyfingers]

Today run a speed test to Ookla. Both wireless and wired using the same workstation/computer.

When it rains tomorrow run a speed test to Ookla. Both wireless and wired using the same workstation/computer.

Are your cell phone's bars WIFI bars or CELL TOWER bars?

My speed is historically all over the place from minute to minute, a least using the Xfinity speed test.

At the moment using Ookla and my Lenovo Win11 Notebook in the basement 15 feet from the NAD it's 439.80 down and 23.96 Up. But that's testing everything to an outside location. Since this is an internal to my home issue it's really how fast the router can talk to two devices both connected to the router without going outside.

My phone gets the same speed on the main 5G. The NAD likes to be on the Extender. My phone gets 77 down and 20 up on the extender at both the computer location and the NAD antenna location.

I don't know but I think that 77 and 20 should be plenty for streaming music inside the house.

When I talk about the bar strength, I'm talking Wifi, not data. My house gets crappy cell reception but that's moot for this issue.

Still no dropouts today. Song Index loading is quick. It's overcast but not raining at the moment.

 

[crazyfingers]

Lots of talk about files and iTunes but no specifics. What is this notebook exactly? Windows version? iTunes for Windows or Apple Music for Windows app? It all matters.

If you are playing purchased and downloaded material in iTunes, I’d use the iTunes remote app on a Smart device for music selection. The Smart device will be just that, a remote controller. The notebook will Airplay music directly to the selected device.

However, if using the Apple music app to stream music that has been added to your library but has not actually been downloaded, you will be at the mercy of your current internet speeds for quality. In this case as well, the Smart device with the iTunes Remote app is just that, and music is sent directly to the selected device from the notebook.

I wouldn’t be concerned with a wired connection vs Airplay to the NAD for iTunes or Apple Music. While the NAD supports hi-res, unless it received a firmware update, it does not support hi-res ALAC. Many new AVRs have 24/96 limits for ALAC over network and USB connections and the coaxial and optical ports on many new AVRs have 24/96 limits altogether. Apple added hi-res and then made it extremely difficult to transmit from one device to another for no good reason.

The Notebook is a Lenovo Win11. All of the music is on my Lenovo hard drive. I almost never stream from the internet. Maybe only around Xmas time.

I have tried the Android aps but I really have no interest in controlling the music from my phone (or Tablet). I'm at my computer most of the time and I prefer the large screen.

The NAD has been able to play normal ALACs since I got it about 9 months ago. I don't have any hi-res ALACs and I'm unlikely to get any because of the extra large files. ALACs are big enough compared to AAC and I have a hard time telling the difference between AAC and ALAC as it is.

 

[crazyfingers]

You should be able to control what comes out of where WRT audio by going into the settings for the sound card. The gain can be controlled there, too. When you connect the 3.5mm plug, does a box show up on your screen with these controls?

WRT? When I switch the computer (Win11 with a recent update that changed all around the speaker selection from the task bar) to the headphone jack vs the internal speaker I get some gain sliders but the one that identifies itself as connected to iTunes I have on max already.

What's strange is that there are 4 options for the control of gain. Headpones, iTunes, Firefox and my Mozilla Thunderbird email client. Strange that there is nothing for system dings and dongs.

 

[Trebdp83]

What is the model of the extender? You might try an app called "WiFi Sweetspots" on your phone. It will show the current throughput of signals available from the phone to the router based on its current location. Place it near the NAD to get an idea of the signals there. With the NAD and router supporting Wireless 5/AC, the extender is not doing you any favors if it does not also do so.

When posters offer up information piecemeal, it takes quite a bit of time to get the full picture after posting additional questions about a particular setup. Every signal bit of information concerning the devices and the types of connections used are essential from the get go. Every poster on this thread wants to help get this particular system working optimally but unfortunately cannot read minds.

 

[MrBoat]

The internet has nothing to do with being able to play music that's stored locally. Does your AVR have an ethernet port? If it does, why not use DLNA to play your FLAC files?

No, but the internet has to do with being able to stream music from online. I do stream music as well. Just that in the absence of internet, I still had music from what was stored on my pc or it's onboard cd player or external CD player as well as a TT. It reminded me of how I never was at a shortage of music before internet, and before all of these additional devices/connectivity were required. I'd end up likely not using them, even if I had them.

Never bothered with DLNA. There are no other DLNA compatible devices here. Everything else is either outdated or analog. No TV, either.

 

[highfigh]

WRT? When I switch the computer (Win11 with a recent update that changed all around the speaker selection from the task bar) to the headphone jack vs the internal speaker I get some gain sliders but the one that identifies itself as connected to iTunes I have on max already.

What's strange is that there are 4 options for the control of gain. Headpones, iTunes, Firefox and my Mozilla Thunderbird email client. Strange that there is nothing for system dings and dongs.

I edited that comment.

You would have needed to reconfigure after changing from Win7 to 10, too. The slider in iTunes is separate from any other audio controls, as it is in any other software like YouTube, etc.

As far as dings & dongs, look in the Control Panel for Sounds.

 

[highfigh]

No, but the internet has to do with being able to stream music from online. I do stream music as well. Just that in the absence of internet, I still had music from what was stored on my pc or it's onboard cd player or external CD player as well as a TT. It reminded me of how I never was at a shortage of music before internet, and before all of these additional devices/connectivity were required. I'd end up likely not using them, even if I had them.

Never bothered with DLNA. There are no other DLNA compatible devices here. Everything else is either outdated or analog. No TV, either.

I didn't see anything about online streaming in the first post- that could have been included and there's no reason to assume it.

Repeaters automatically cut speed and throughput- much better to use an actual Access Point, which would be hard wired to the router. That should be located as close to the area where it's needed but, having installed AV/Home Theater/network for more than 20 years and after solving a lot of AV system network issues, I stand by the comment at the bottom of my posts- WiFi is for convenience, not performance. It can work well, but I wouldn't do it if reliability matters.

Hard wiring isn't always easy, but it is better.

 

[highfigh]

My speed is historically all over the place from minute to minute, a least using the Xfinity speed test.

At the moment using Ookla and my Lenovo Win11 Notebook in the basement 15 feet from the NAD it's 439.80 down and 23.96 Up. But that's testing everything to an outside location. Since this is an internal to my home issue it's really how fast the router can talk to two devices both connected to the router without going outside.

My phone gets the same speed on the main 5G. The NAD likes to be on the Extender. My phone gets 77 down and 20 up on the extender at both the computer location and the NAD antenna location.

I don't know but I think that 77 and 20 should be plenty for streaming music inside the house.

When I talk about the bar strength, I'm talking Wifi, not data. My house gets crappy cell reception but that's moot for this issue.

Still no dropouts today. Song Index loading is quick. It's overcast but not raining at the moment.

What does 5G have to do with your home's network? That's cellular. Also, it doesn't refer to speed.

Can you post a list of your AV and network equipment, with locations and approximate distances?

BTW- "15 feet from the NAD" doesn't matter, either- both connect to the router unless you're using Bluetooth and in that case, the router isn't involved.

What do you mean by "I'm talking Wifi, not data"? Did you mean "not cellular"?

 

[highfigh]

Have you actually checked your signal strength around the home in db? Mesh type routers are best so you can get even coverage. Non mobile devices are best connected with Ethernet cables and Wi-Fi reserved for mobile devices.

Se how much your signal drops between sunny and rainy days. You may well have a damaged cable. I made them lay mine in conduit. You seem to have a lot of units strung together. You really need to have units connect to amplification and not daisy chained, like you at least suggest yours are.

Mesh systems are great, but only if the building was built in a way that the signal can reach the other devices. I referred to one house as "The place where WiFi goes to die" because the walls and ceilings have metal screen lath, used to hold the plaster.

 

[highfigh]

Its a pretty good router. A Netgear Nighthawk X4S AC2600 Smart WiFi Router Model R7800 for a large house even though we have a medium size house.

But a little old.

I haven't restarted it to check this. It's a good suggestion. I lose wifi in the house around once every few months and I turn the modem and the router off and on then.

Can you update the router's firmware?

Where is the router located? I have a customer who constantly messes with their router's antennae, flopping them down like it's a big Rabbit and it really screws up the WiFi in that area. How old is the house? Old houses often used materials that aren't conducive to RF passing through. Also, the 5MHz band doesn't travel as far as the 2.4Mhz band for the same reasons. Try using the 2.4MHz band and see if it works better.

 

[crazyfingers]

What does 5G have to do with your home's network? That's cellular. Also, it doesn't refer to speed.

5G is what the various wifi network connections are called from the Nighthawk in Windows when I choose how to connect to the router on the task bar. There is also 2.4G and iterations of 2.4 and 5 for the Extension. It appears that the call them 5G and 2.4G as shorthand for 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz.
Below is a screenshot of what I'm connected to looking at how I select from wifi icon on the windows task bar. For unknown reasons I can't get it to screen shot the whole screen.

This is how they describe it in the manual.

Can you post a list of your AV and network equipment, with locations and approximate distances?

I will try to do that.

BTW- "15 feet from the NAD" doesn't matter, either- both connect to the router unless you're using Bluetooth and in that case, the router isn't involved.

I only mentioned it because the NAD is only about 15 feet further from the router than the computer is though I know that there can be issues like heat ducts, stair cases and such that also make the two locations different.

What do you mean by "I'm talking Wifi, not data"? Did you mean "not cellular"?

Data being short hand for mobile data or cellular data which I am not using in this situation. When I talk about bars am taking about the wifi signal strength which the curved bars that stack like umbrellas, (as in the Netgear image above showing full strength) not cellular bars that look like a bar chart.

 

[Trebdp83]

I'd still move the NAD so that it is on top of something with no shelf above it. Its antenna should be visible and it looks as though they are not pointed straight up even after the move to the higher shelf.

 

[crazyfingers]

I'd still move the NAD so that it is on top of something with no shelf above it. Its antenna should be visible and it looks as though they are not pointed straight up even after the move to the higher shelf.

I think that I will do that eventually. I just spend 45 minutes struggling to get it onto the 2.4Ghz network and was unable to connect at all until I downloaded the BluOS Android app again and reset it to the network.

Now all of a sudden it's showing the strongest possible signal strength on the 5G-Extention. I don't know why it was showing a weak signal (just the one bottom triangle in red) for months, even after I moved it to the top shelf the other day. It has been on the 5G-Extention for months and it's back on the 5G-Extention now.

It's still on the top shelf of the cabinet with no electronics above it.

My computer is on the Netgear-5G still. I guess devices can talk across them.

Do you know if a device connected to the 5Ghz connection on the router can talk to a device connected to the 2.4Ghz connection?

 

[crazyfingers]

Can you update the router's firmware?

Where is the router located? I have a customer who constantly messes with their router's antennae, flopping them down like it's a big Rabbit and it really screws up the WiFi in that area. How old is the house? Old houses often used materials that aren't conducive to RF passing through. Also, the 5MHz band doesn't travel as far as the 2.4Mhz band for the same reasons. Try using the 2.4MHz band and see if it works better.

I checked and it's got updated firmware. The NAD firmware and the BluOS Controller software both updated within 15 days ago.

My post just above I now have Excellent signal and I don't really know what I did to get that.

Maybe with the updated firmware from a few days ago I needed to be reset. I don't know. (I'm always afraid of firmware updates and what will be fixed and what will be broken)

But, can a device on a 5Ghz connection to the router (my Notebook) talk to a device on the 2.4Ghz if I try putting the NAD on the 2.4?

 

[Trebdp83]

Devices using either 2.4 or 5 can communicate with one another on the same network but this will depend on the capabilities of the router.

 

[MrBoat]

I didn't see anything about online streaming in the first post- that could have been included and there's no reason to assume it.

Repeaters automatically cut speed and throughput- much better to use an actual Access Point, which would be hard wired to the router. That should be located as close to the area where it's needed but, having installed AV/Home Theater/network for more than 20 years and after solving a lot of AV system network issues, I stand by the comment at the bottom of my posts- WiFi is for convenience, not performance. It can work well, but I wouldn't do it if reliability matters.

Hard wiring isn't always easy, but it is better.

To me, it's more about the redundant amount of hardware needed these days for. . .convenience? A lot of boxes just to save from as much physical inconvenience as possible, not to mention the amount of troubleshooting minions it takes to keep it all running smoothly. While my methods are certainly antiquated, I enjoy the part of needing very little in way of tech support.

I have an echo dot. For all it's convenience, it is a buggy fk. It glitches occasionally, to the point where I just leave it alone for days until it occurs to me to try it again to see if it fixed itself. It, and the wifi both lie about who/what the culprit is. Phone shows wifi signal as excellent, yet Alexa says I need to check the network, and further troubleshooting directs me to physically going into settings and deleting cache, and all other kind of semi-hopeful cures that rarely work, at least without some other new, albeit erroneous quirk to deal with from there on out. And for what, an endless supply of constant spontaneous, or instantaneous entertainment?

Anymore, the least amount of puter/tech nerds or "experts" the better. Fortunately for me, minimalistic approaches are still valid, albeit it not too popular for those who need malfunctioning networks and hardware to make a living from it.