Starting a loudspeaker build- The basics

[ryanshaw3ball]

so im just starting to design my first 3 way loudspeaker setup after countless subwoofer builds, i have all my drivers picked out and crossovers(to the best of my knowledge) but have a few questions.

first, here's what i am working with so far
(all is per speaker)
2 of these in separate cabinets
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-130

1 of these
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-308
...
paired with 1 of these for the midrange stage
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=280-110

my tweeter
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-070

and this for a crossover
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-156



So my questions are..
1. does the crossover deal with power management? as in i dont want 125 watts split evenly to the tweeter midrange and woofers, (more to the woofers is optimal obviously)

2. the top woofer will be sealed, the bottom ported and tuned to 40hz. Will this give me good vocal range up to my 700hz crossover level

and 3. how does hooking up 2 midranges to one crossover work. does it half the resistance? do i need a second or special crossover?

Also, just want to make sure i dont have any "holes" in my frequency response. more spefically making sure i dont have a large gap between speaker cutoff frequencies and crossover frequencies.

any help would be tremendous!

 

[GranteedEV]

so im just starting to design my first 3 way loudspeaker setup after countless subwoofer builds, i have all my drivers picked out and crossovers

Whoa!! Stop. Right. There!

For starters, you can't just go from building a subwoofer to a 3-way! Start with a two-way if you're designing this yourself.

Second, how exactly did you pick your drivers out? Do you even know if they'll mesh together? You can't just choose them based on partsexpress reviews!

Third.. don't do it! Ready-made passive crossovers are a big no-no. Get a kit and build it to exact cabinet specification if you want the easy way out, or use an active crossover + sufficient amp channels

You could literally take the best sounding tweeter, the best sounding mid, the best sounding woofer, and make the worst sounding speaker with a readymade passive crossover.

I didn't read any of your post after that. I don't mean that in a rude way, but my advice is to do a lot of reading on speaker building before you spend money on something that won't impress you!

 

[zieglj01]

Whoa!! Stop. Right. There!

If you are not able to build your own crossover - then stop.
Box tuning and measurements, all play a big part. Get a real
speaker kit and go from there. Also, try going to a DIY forum.

 

[Swerd]

Sometimes I just have to say this

Designing your own speakers takes quite a lot more than a Parts Express catalog, a circle saw, and an imagination.

There is a recent thread in the DIY forum that deals with this. The OP should read it.

 

[zieglj01]

Sometimes I just have to say this

Designing your own speakers takes quite a lot more than a Parts Express catalog, a circle saw, and an imagination.

There is a recent thread in the DIY forum that deals with this. The OP should read it.

I like that response - maybe nominate this for an award!

 

[GranteedEV]

Designing your own speakers takes quite a lot more than a Parts Express catalog, a circle saw, and an imagination.

Yeah, you need a madisound catalog too! DUH!

.... Maybe someone like should make a "Read This" sticky type thread on loudspeaker design that serves as a primer for all the reading and preparation necessary. You know, discusses basic Tooleian theory, the various functions, forms, and complications of passive as well as active crossovers, measurement tools/methods, affordable simulation tools/methods, construction tools, (including a soldering iron), and prerequisite warnings. And that phrase of yours? I should be the thread title

 

[clouso]

Why the hell would i give my self untakable headhaches take my time away from all the other important things of life while i can buy them already assembled and done!?......those who dont trust great companys such as svs...canton....paradigm...b&w..and i wont name them all...well try to built them with your so knowlagable mind..but pls if you can build them why are you posting here!!...????

 

[brad1138]

Why the hell would i give my self untakable headhaches take my time away from all the other important things of life while i can buy them already assembled and done!?......those who dont trust great companys such as svs...canton....paradigm...b&w..and i wont name them all...well try to built them with your so knowlagable mind..but pls if you can build them why are you posting here!!...????

That is really uncalled for, give this guy a break. You act like no one ever builds their own spks. or they would be stupid to even try.

Many of the previous posts are correct in that there is A LOT that goes into building speakers properly, but with enough research it can be done right and can be quite rewarding. I have never built a speaker, beyond putting a 6" full range driver into a 6" car box nearly 30 years ago, but I see a lot of posts by people who have. They are very proud of their work and can have very good results.

Ryan, don't let anyone discourage you, but do plenty of research first and you'll save money during the learning process.

Brad

 

[Kitsum]

I have built 3-4 pairs in the past, but now, if you do some research, you can find used DIY speakers locally from many great designers, in prices less than the drivers alone, that i don't think its worth the trouble unless you enjoy working with wood or the iron.

 

[Matt34]

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-702

 

[andy19191]

> 1. does the crossover deal with power management? as in i dont want 125 watts split
> evenly to the tweeter midrange and woofers, (more to the woofers is optimal obviously)

The power management (guessing at your meaning somewhat) follows from the relative sensitivities of the drivers plus components added to the crossover design to equalise things. Hence one almost always has to have a purpose designed and built crossover if you pick drivers and cabinet design.

> 2. the top woofer will be sealed, the bottom ported and tuned to 40hz. Will this give me
> good vocal range up to my 700hz crossover level

Need more information.

> and 3. how does hooking up 2 midranges to one crossover work. does it half the
> resistance? do i need a second or special crossover?

Two midrange drivers bring both advantages and disadvantages. The one you have chosen is of rather modest performance which is probably unwise given the importance of the midrange to the sound quality and the relative cost in terms of time and money.

> Also, just want to make sure i dont have any "holes" in my frequency response. more
> spefically making sure i dont have a large gap between speaker cutoff frequencies and
> crossover frequencies.

The problem is less holes but step changes in loudness between the drivers.

As others have suggested, I think you need to take a step back and understand a bit more about how loudspeakers work. Can I suggest perhaps following an established 3 way DIY design or, mildly modifying one, before having a go yourself. An example:

[Sorry but the forum won't let me post a link]

but there are plenty more out there although they are not all equally competent designs.

 

[TLS Guy]

so im just starting to design my first 3 way loudspeaker setup after countless subwoofer builds, i have all my drivers picked out and crossovers(to the best of my knowledge) but have a few questions.

first, here's what i am working with so far
(all is per speaker)
2 of these in separate cabinets
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-130

1 of these
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-308
...
paired with 1 of these for the midrange stage
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=280-110

my tweeter
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-070

and this for a crossover
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-156



So my questions are..
1. does the crossover deal with power management? as in i dont want 125 watts split evenly to the tweeter midrange and woofers, (more to the woofers is optimal obviously)

2. the top woofer will be sealed, the bottom ported and tuned to 40hz. Will this give me good vocal range up to my 700hz crossover level

and 3. how does hooking up 2 midranges to one crossover work. does it half the resistance? do i need a second or special crossover?

Also, just want to make sure i dont have any "holes" in my frequency response. more spefically making sure i dont have a large gap between speaker cutoff frequencies and crossover frequencies.

any help would be tremendous!

You will have holes galore, plus lumps and and bumps.

You can't build a speaker round a generic crossover. The crossover is the heart of a speaker.

First look at the acoustic responses of the drivers and see if they are suitable, to work together, and can even be crossed over.

Then play with the crossover design to select suitable crossover point and slopes. You need to level match at this stage.

Now add the diffraction compensation.

Now look at the impedance curves phase response and lobing issues.

Now think about designing the boxes for your driver, to optimize driver response.

Now start doing some experiments and measurements and see how close your theoretical design is to actual performance. Then modify as necessary.

Next never choose a three way as your first design. In fact consider never designing a three way speaker with only passive components.

As to one specific question, yes, adding drivers changes the impedance and drastically changes the crossover points. This is another reason to never use generic crossovers. Designing and building your own crossovers are mandatory. If you can't do this then build a kit, and follow the crossover design.

Now we have had post identical to this many times recently and I think we do need a sticky.

Inexperienced posters always want to start y building a three way, which is a massive hill to climb. It is certainly a valid question as to whether entirely passive three ways should be designed by anybody any longer.

You are about to waste a lot of time and money.