ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
One other thing you might want to consider: Which one is more pliable?

That one with the insulation, the one made for in-all mounting. might be stiff and not very flexible. This is fine for in-wall use, and may be necessary for building codes, but might prove a it difficult for "normal" usage.
I agree. When I ran all my wiring through my walls and attic I purchased a 500 ft roll of CL2 from Home Depot. It has been great for many years but it is so stiff that it is difficult to work with especially in tight areas like zone 2 & 3 in-wall controls.
 
charmerci

charmerci

Audioholic
Wayne, that is a bummer. Really like the way the white jacket looks. Is there anything out there in 12 AWG or 14 AWG with a jacket that is flexible yet affordable? Maybe I am asking for too much. Appreciate the info.
l
Unspool the length outside and use spray paint.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
I use the 14 awg white jacket Monoprice wire. It's great, and very flexible. I really love how it's color-coded as well.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Folks, I have been using 12 AWG speaker wire like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2789&seq=1&format=2

That being said, is this a good choice? Soon, I plan to clean up my wires to more exact lengths, and etc. So, I was thinking about ordering some like this instead:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2817&seq=1&format=2

So, my question is which of the two is better? I plan to use 12 AWG for my rears and 14 AWG for my fronts, center, and front height speakers. I will use these banana plugs on both ends like this:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=9436&seq=1&format=2

Just curious as to what YOU guys have to say. Perhaps, some of YOU have better ideas/suggestions? Appreciate some input.

Cheers,

Phil
I called Crown Audio Tech Support yesterday and we got onto the topic of speaker cabling for an out-building at a house where I'm doing some AV work. I mentioned that the distance from the amp to the speakers would be over 100' and he said "Large concert systems frequently have speaker cable runs that are longer than 100 feet" and when I asked him about the wire gauge, he said they usually use 12ga.

Unless something outside of the cable is influencing it, buy something decent, but don't break the bank and don't believe that using the right speaker wire will make unicorns fly or bring anyone back from the dead.

BTW- if you terminate the wires at the speakers, pull them back to the amp and do the same there, I wouldn't recommend trying to move anything unless you have access to the rear of the speakers or the rest of the equipment because moving one will try to move the other. Leave a little extra, so you can re-position the speakers and pull the amp out. It won't cause problems with the sound- interference is far easier when the device impedances are higher and it takes a lot to interfere with speaker wiring. I don't recommend bundling it with a bunch of video or electrical wiring, but being near these won't cause many noticeable problems.

These comments are based on working with speakers & audio equipment in all kinds of vehicles and buildings, with many kinds of equipment, around all kinds of power/control/AV cabling for over 40 years and I'm sure someone will come along to tell me I'm full of it but I have heard very few problems caused be using adequate wire gauge and somewhat intelligent routing of wires.
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Yeah, that is why I want to stay away from the clear looking zipcord. Much prefer the white jacket type. Have a few friends that are professional installers that will give me a hand. The question is, however, when are they going to have the time? Plus, it is snowing once again. So, just have to be a bit more patient. No big deal really. Thanks for YOUR input.

Cheers,

Phil
Zip cord is fine as long as its jacket isn't PVC, which corrodes copper and it's not being passed through walls, into ceilings and through plenum air spaces- these violate the electric code (not the corrosion part, the routing).
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Yeah, that's it, but I've never used the 12g. I think 12g is massive overkill for home theater stuff. 14g is even overkill, frankly. It's not as flexible as the clear jacket stuff is, but it's certainly not "stiff." If you have experience with network cable, it's not far from a typical stranded Cat 5e.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Yeah, that's it, but I've never used the 12g. I think 12g is massive overkill for home theater stuff. 14g is even overkill, frankly. It's not as flexible as the clear jacket stuff is, but it's certainly not "stiff." If you have experience with network cable, it's not far from a typical stranded Cat 5e.
Actually, I want to use 14 AWG for everything with the exception of my rears (5.2). I prefer to use 12 AWG because the runs are quite a bit longer. Therefore, by the time I bought a small roll of the 14 AWG and a longer roll of the 12 AWG I might as well just order a larger roll of 12 AWG and be done with it. Should be cheaper that way. Around here, cheaper is good....LOL!!!!! :p:p:p

Cheers,

Phil
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Zip cord is fine as long as its jacket isn't PVC, which corrodes copper and it's not being passed through walls, into ceilings and through plenum air spaces- these violate the electric code (not the corrosion part, the routing).
Thanks for the info. Will keep this in mind YOU have been of great help to me. It is most appreciated.

Cheers,

Phil
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Actually, I want to use 14 AWG for everything with the exception of my rears (5.2). I prefer to use 12 AWG because the runs are quite a bit longer. Therefore, by the time I bought a small roll of the 14 AWG and a longer roll of the 12 AWG I might as well just order a larger roll of 12 AWG and be done with it. Should be cheaper that way. Around here, cheaper is good....LOL!!!!! :p:p:p

Cheers,

Phil
Unless the rears are more than 80' from the amplifier, I wouldn't bother and using the same gauge for front and back won't be audible. The rear speakers don't receive as much signal as the main ones and because our ears are angled forward, a lot of the detail isn't noticeable when it comes from behind.

I have known someone who has worked as a sound engineer in recording studios and live sound, as well as doing audio system installations for over 35 years and when larger speaker wire first became a topic of discussion (in the early-'80s), I asked him about it. He said he had done TEF analysis and found that 16 ga is fine for live sound, up to about 60'. Since 'live sound' systems for large spaces or loud music usually operate in the HUNDREDS of Watts per speaker for a large part of the show, this is an important point. When a speaker system is only receiving a few Watts, heavy gauge wire just isn't necessary. It might look cool, but that goes away as soon as the lights are turned down, someone closes their eyes or leaves the room.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Unless the rears are more than 80' from the amplifier, I wouldn't bother and using the same gauge for front and back won't be audible. The rear speakers don't receive as much signal as the main ones and because our ears are angled forward, a lot of the detail isn't noticeable when it comes from behind.

I have known someone who has worked as a sound engineer in recording studios and live sound, as well as doing audio system installations for over 35 years and when larger speaker wire first became a topic of discussion (in the early-'80s), I asked him about it. He said he had done TEF analysis and found that 16 ga is fine for live sound, up to about 60'. Since 'live sound' systems for large spaces or loud music usually operate in the HUNDREDS of Watts per speaker for a large part of the show, this is an important point. When a speaker system is only receiving a few Watts, heavy gauge wire just isn't necessary. It might look cool, but that goes away as soon as the lights are turned down, someone closes their eyes or leaves the room.
Well, then perhaps I will use 14 AWG throughout. Just have to look at the price difference. As always, budget is a limiting factor. Just ordered my second 15" sub and an anti-mode 8033 S II this morning. Money is a bit tight now as we speak.....LOL!!!!! Thanks once again for the info.

Cheers,

Phil
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
My main tip is to get one with very obvious colors so you don't wire out of phase by accident. I also suggest getting banana plugs. The Monoprice ones do like to unscrew themselves.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Well, then perhaps I will use 14 AWG throughout. Just have to look at the price difference. As always, budget is a limiting factor. Just ordered my second 15" sub and an anti-mode 8033 S II this morning. Money is a bit tight now as we speak.....LOL!!!!! Thanks once again for the info.

Cheers,

Phil

I use 14 for everything. Unless you have a long run it shouldn't matter.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
I use 14 for everything. Unless you have a long run it shouldn't matter.
Yeah, that is going to be my plan as well. I am very good about keeping everything in phase so no worries there. However, I do use the monoprice banana plugs so I will keep an eye on them. Thanks for the heads up on that one.

Cheers,

Phil
 
jonnythan

jonnythan

Audioholic Ninja
Even if you had a 1 or 2 dB loss using, say, 16g instead of 12g for your rear surrounds, your receiver's auto-EQ (or manual EQ) will adjust those levels anyway.
 

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