Speaker Cable & Wiring Question

[dpriest]

I just bought a pair of RSL C34E speakers that I'm installing in the ceiling. Thinking about getting the Blue Jeans Cable 12-gauge to wire these. I've heard of a quad cable that has 4 wires in one cable so I can wire both with the same cable. Is this the best way to do this or should I wire the speakers with separate cables? I was thinking about using existing monster cable I have to wire the Front L, R and center speakers unless there is a better quality cable?

Also, the house I just bought has these existing wires for the rear L & R speakers. I can't tell the quality but from what the pictures show, should I keep them or replace them with the Blue Jeans Cable 12-Gauge? See pictures below.

 

[highfigh]

I just bought a pair of RSL C34E speakers that I'm installing in the ceiling. Thinking about getting the Blue Jeans Cable 12-gauge to wire these. I've heard of a quad cable that has 4 wires in one cable so I can wire both with the same cable. Is this the best way to do this or should I wire the speakers with separate cables? I was thinking about using existing monster cable I have to wire the Front L, R and center speakers unless there is a better quality cable?

Also, the house I just bought has these existing wires for the rear L & R speakers. I can't tell the quality but from what the pictures show, should I keep them or replace them with the Blue Jeans Cable 12-Gauge? See pictures below.

View attachment 43691View attachment 43692

That wire is a code violation because it's not allowed for in-wall or in-ceiling applications.

Don't worry about quad star or any of that stuff- just use 14 or 16 gauge cable that's CL-2 rated (CL3 if it passes though a cold air return)- it may be rated CM-R or CM-P if it doesn't show CL ratings.

 

[mazersteven]

The cable in the pictures is just cheap speaker wire it should work fine without issue. The only concern I would have is it doesn't look like it's in wall cable I could be wrong

​

BJC Twelve White (White jacket, 12 AWG)​	​		​ ​
Belden 5000UE (Gray jacket, 12 AWG)​

 

[dpriest]

That wire is a code violation because it's not allowed for in-wall or in-ceiling applications.

Don't worry about quad star or any of that stuff- just use 14 or 16 gauge cable that's CL-2 rated (CL3 if it passes though a cold air return)- it may be rated CM-R or CM-P if it doesn't show CL ratings.

So are you suggesting that I run two separate speaker cables to the speakers in the wall and the ceiling, so a total of 4 separate speaker wires/cables? Also what do you think of the monster speaker to use for the front three speakers?

 

[Jhmeg2]

You are supposed to use a special in wall wire? Im thinking of running some conduit for speaker wires since I'll be spray foaming.

 

[WMalinak]

CAVEAT: I am NOT an expert (and cannot talk to code and/or safety).

However, I took the recommendation/link that is in every Audioholics YouTube video by Gene, et al:
250ft CL2 12AWG Speaker Cable: https://amzn.to/2vwS9QH

I've got this running to/from many rooms, similar to what you are describing.

Be Safe
==>BillM

 

[highfigh]

So are you suggesting that I run two separate speaker cables to the speakers in the wall and the ceiling, so a total of 4 separate speaker wires/cables? Also what do you think of the monster speaker to use for the front three speakers?

You need a positive wire and a negative wire- that is all, even if the speakers have four binding posts (which is a marketing feature), you need two conductors to make the system work if the speakers have jumpers. If they don't have jumpers, you can make them. It will not only work, it will work well. I think Munster Cable is a huge waste of time in thinking about it and a big waste of money- they were one of the first shysters to trowel this stuff out there and if I could go back in time, I would try to prevent it from happening. I have been working in/with the audio equipment industry for over 45 years and have never known speaker wire to make a difference unless it was puny and couldn't handle the signal because it caused voltage drop. That's really the only thing to worry about.

Your twin lead wire is OK from the wire gauge standpoint and it would be fine if it was laying on the floor or on shelves, but technically, it doesn't meet Electrical code requirements. Aside from that, don't worry about speaker wire marketing BS, cost, fancy names or cosmetics, especially if it will be hidden.

 

[highfigh]

You are supposed to use a special in wall wire? Im thinking of running some conduit for speaker wires since I'll be spray foaming.

That would be a good idea if you plan to spray foam- if you use conduit, the wire in the photo is fine. Install conduit for the video cables, too- if you can use 1-1/2" or 2", do it. Look for flexible plastic tubing that's commonly called 'Smurf Tube'- that's the name because it's blue, like a Smurf. It also comes in orange and you can buy it at Home Depot or electrical supply dealerships. You can use smaller tubing for speaker wires- the rule of thumb is to avoid filling the cross-sectional area more than 65%, to make pulling through bends easier. Also, don't make sharp bends- the friction will make pulling more difficult and if the tubing is extremely crowded, the cable's jacket can be damaged.

Count the number of video cables that will need to go to the display- if it's a large number, remember that you can always install a second tube, but you can't add more cables to over-crowded tubing and the ends need to pass through easily, so they won't be damaged.

BTW- if you need to pull Cat5e or Cat6 (Cat5e will handle gigabit transmission up to about 100') don't pull it too hard because it has a limited ability to withstand tension since each conductor is a single wire and pulling it causes it to narrow and become brittle. Cat5e has a maximum pull limit of 25 pounds- this doesn't mean 25 pounds per square inch, either.

 

[WMalinak]

You need a positive wire and a negative wire- that is all, even if the speakers have four binding posts (which is a marketing feature) >>> truncated.

highfigh is properly pragmatic.

To clarify...I've made long runs with the 4-wire because both easy to handle near my stacks AND it is easy to pull (I have 2 story ceilings and lack the luxury of bare to studs...had to retro-fit finished rooms). Then I split/splice 2-wire runs when nearer terminations (i.e., the speakers).

Be Safe
==>BillM

 

[IcarianVX]

You need a positive wire and a negative wire- that is all, even if the speakers have four binding posts (which is a marketing feature), you need two conductors to make the system work if the speakers have jumpers. If they don't have jumpers, you can make them. It will not only work, it will work well. I think Munster Cable is a huge waste of time in thinking about it and a big waste of money- they were one of the first shysters to trowel this stuff out there and if I could go back in time, I would try to prevent it from happening. I have been working in/with the audio equipment industry for over 45 years and have never known speaker wire to make a difference unless it was puny and couldn't handle the signal because it caused voltage drop. That's really the only thing to worry about.

Your twin lead wire is OK from the wire gauge standpoint and it would be fine if it was laying on the floor or on shelves, but technically, it doesn't meet Electrical code requirements. Aside from that, don't worry about speaker wire marketing BS, cost, fancy names or cosmetics, especially if it will be hidden.

Thanks! Good to know that people with a lot of experience can straight forward with things like this for us that are new.

 

[Eppie]

@dpriest just to clarify, highfigh means not to spend extra money on name brands like Monster Cable. I don't think he's implying that you can't use the existing cables that you have. If the Monster Cable is 14 or 12 gauge then it's likely fine your mains.

There is one reason to run 4 conductor, and that is to future proof. You can splice the pairs to double the effective gauge for now, but if the gauge is heavy enough you can separate them and treat it as two separate lines to connect two speakers if need be, say if you wanted to add more ceiling speakers down the road. If you can install conduit, then all the better as you can fish more lines later and just use 2 conductor for now.

As to the CL rating, that's usually due to local building codes. Improper cable sheathing produces harmful fumes in a fire so stick to cable designed for in-wall use.

 

[highfigh]

@dpriest just to clarify, highfigh means not to spend extra money on name brands like Monster Cable. I don't think he's implying that you can't use the existing cables that you have. If the Monster Cable is 14 or 12 gauge then it's likely fine your mains.

There is one reason to run 4 conductor, and that is to future proof. You can splice the pairs to double the effective gauge for now, but if the gauge is heavy enough you can separate them and treat it as two separate lines to connect two speakers if need be, say if you wanted to add more ceiling speakers down the road. If you can install conduit, then all the better as you can fish more lines later and just use 2 conductor for now.

As to the CL rating, that's usually due to local building codes. Improper cable sheathing produces harmful fumes in a fire so stick to cable designed for in-wall use.

Using 4 conductor can also be more cost-effective. If the cable runs are longer and 16 ga wouldn't be the best choice, doubling it increases the gauge to 13ga and 16/4 is usually about the same price as 14/2- if someone doesn't need a 500' box of 14/2 and has 16/4, they're actually getting a heavier conductor.

CL rating is NEC, not local.

 

[Eppie]

I think it's more regional in Canada. Electrical codes are set by the Province (Ontario Electrical Safety Code here) but municipalities can add requirements.