Sono Sub Driver?

[Rocky]

I am going to be building one for a fairly big room (20 x 12). I am looking for flat response down to sub 20hz levels. I have been looking at the Titanic 12" and 15" subs as well as the Adire tempest and shiva 12" and 15" models. The ascendant arsenal 12 and 15 inch models and assassian 12" sub have also caught my eye but they are backordered for a while. It would be nice to spend as little as possible, but all of these are in my budget. I want NO distortion from the sub, wind noise is only a problem is my enclosure sucks, so that kind of distortion will be my problem. Any suggestions on what to get and why? BTW this sub will be used for 80 percent movies, 20 percent music. Also, the enclosure will be designed after, and only after the driver has been selected.

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

Have you considered the new Dayton Reference series 12" drivers? One is high output, and one is high fidelity. They are getting awesome reviews from the DIY crowd. They are actually 5lbs heavier then the Titanic 12" driver, and said to have extremely low distortion numbers. The model numbers are 295-464 and 295-466.

 

[j_garcia]

I have a 15" Tempest dual voice coil 4 ohm config, in a tube tuned to 17Hz and I have to say I think it would be pretty darn tough to push this guy to the point where you got distortion. My room is 19x20 with high vaulted ceilings and it has tremendous output. My buddy, the original builder, ran it with a Crown amp bridged, pushing ~1100w. He said the amp would indicate clipping before the sub would show signs of distortion.

I upgraded from a PB-10 to this guy.

I think the Dayton Reference drivers would also be a great choice. I haven't heard them, but I've heard a lot about them.

 

[Hi Ho]

Ascendant Audio Havoc 15"

 

[MacManNM]

I am going to be building one for a fairly big room (20 x 12). I am looking for flat response down to sub 20hz levels. I have been looking at the Titanic 12" and 15" subs as well as the Adire tempest and shiva 12" and 15" models. The ascendant arsenal 12 and 15 inch models and assassian 12" sub have also caught my eye but they are backordered for a while. It would be nice to spend as little as possible, but all of these are in my budget. I want NO distortion from the sub, wind noise is only a problem is my enclosure sucks, so that kind of distortion will be my problem. Any suggestions on what to get and why? BTW this sub will be used for 80 percent movies, 20 percent music. Also, the enclosure will be designed after, and only after the driver has been selected.

You are wanting to build a sonotube enclosure? How large? Vented or sealed? What do you want the 3dB point to be? How much power do you have to drive this? How many SPl's do you want at your listening position, and at what frequency?

The dayton subs typicaly suck for vented enclosures. there are a number of drivers out there that are much better (and cheaper) for this type of application.

 

[Rocky]

You are wanting to build a sonotube enclosure? How large? Vented or sealed? What do you want the 3dB point to be? How much power do you have to drive this? How many SPl's do you want at your listening position, and at what frequency?

The dayton subs typicaly suck for vented enclosures. there are a number of drivers out there that are much better (and cheaper) for this type of application.

The size will be dependant on the driver (winISD calculation), it will be vented, I will be buying the amplifier after I decide on the driver, I want clean base and good spl levels,the louder the better while still not compromising quality, I will be tuning the sub to 20Hz. I hope that helps

J Garcia, what diameter is your enclosure and what amp do you use?

 

[j_garcia]

18" diameter, 48" tall (~42" of volume for the sub). I picked up a 350W plate amp, running a 14Hz subsonic filter. I didn't think that would be enough power considering what my buddy was running it with, but I'm running at -1 on the receiver and only 30% gain on the amp and it generates plenty of rumble and SPL. I ran numbers an it is surprisingly flat within a few dB from 160Hz-16Hz; so flat that I opted not to buy an EQ for it. The first time I fired this guy up with the amp's gain at just 50%, I was actually scared for a second... I ran the PB-10 at 0 and about 60% gain and while it gave me the depth, it did not activate the air in the room nearly as much as the Tempest does.

 

[Rocky]

Alright so I ran the numbers through a few different calculators and I came up with these numbers for the Tempest 15D8. 22" wide by 50" tall with a 7" wide by 20.48" long flared port. I also got the results of a 4" flared port 5.43" longThese specs are also tuned to 20Hz. Let me know if these numbers are spot on, and if not, can you please let me know what the numbers should be? BTW i am planning on using an A500 amp

Also, How does a Tempest 12D8 in a 16" wide by 30.8" high with a 23.7" long 4" port sound? Im quite hooked on this sonosub stuff =D The 12" would be perfect for my bedroom, even though I have a pb10-ISD (My neighbor wants to buy it)

What kind of results would these two sonosubs yield? Which would I be better off going with? The price difference is only about 100 dollars

 

[j_garcia]

Since mine is 4 Ohm, I couldn't go with the A500, but if you use the D8, I would expect it will be OK. Mine is using a long 4" port (not sure how long) to get that tune, so I'd say shoot for the 4". If I had to start from scratch, its a tough call...but I'd probably want a 15" again. No more wondering "what if..."

You might want to contact Adire or check their forums for some proven designs. I haven't heard the 12" version, but I'm sure they already have some recommended configs for both 12 and 15 for the tune you are after.

 

[jonnythan]

Have you considered the new Dayton Reference series 12" drivers? One is high output, and one is high fidelity. They are getting awesome reviews from the DIY crowd. They are actually 5lbs heavier then the Titanic 12" driver, and said to have extremely low distortion numbers. The model numbers are 295-464 and 295-466.

The Reference Series 12" models way better than the Titanic in WinISD, and was recommended to me over the Titanic by a guy who has built subs with both of them. He's built lots of subs and basically told me "get this driver."

Mine came in last week.. just waiting for some good weather

http://jonnythan.com/subwoofer

 

[Rocky]

Well I think i am going to put a 12" driver in no matter what now. I went to pick up some sono tube today, but the store didnt have any above 12" diameter. I did pick up some MDF though, a 4x8 sheet cut in half length wise so I have 2 2x8 pieces of 11/16". I used about 1/2 of one sheet exparimenting today, I build a speaker stand, which actually turned out quite well, I just need some veneer to finish it up. I think I am going to make the end caps tomorrow. Just for some clarification, If i go with a 16" sono tube, I should make my end caps (inner) 16" exactly? I want to get as much done as i can this weekend.

 

[jonnythan]

Sonotubes have a tendency to vary a bit. Measure whatever it is you get and make your first cut slightly larger than what you measure the inside diameter to be. Also, I've heard that people tape around the outside of the sonotube at the ends because it begins to fray otherwise.

I'm going to try to do the cutting of my own this coming weekend.

 

[Rocky]

I am going to check home depot for the sono tube on monday, and I am going to try to order a driver of some sort tomorrow, and maybe an amp, but I may wait until I find just the right one(amp). I have a 150 w plate amp sitting beside me that I will be using while I seach for the one that I will user perminantly.

 

[jaxvon]

Dude, if you get the money, go for an external pro amp with a processor like the Behringer Feedback Destroyer. You'll get more power and you won't have to cut a hole in the sonotube. Besides, your amp doesn't stand the chance of getting shaken to death.

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

The Reference Series 12" models way better than the Titanic in WinISD, and was recommended to me over the Titanic by a guy who has built subs with both of them. He's built lots of subs and basically told me "get this driver."

Mine came in last week.. just waiting for some good weather

http://jonnythan.com/subwoofer

The more I read on these Reference Series drivers, the more I feel there is no other 12" that can match it dollar for dollar. You can spend more and get higher output, but why sacrifice for higher distortion specs? Plus, they're not bad looking to boot! Nice pic!

 

[Rocky]

That is what I was planning to do. I dont want to put any sort of plate amp actually ON or IN the sub, if I use my 150watt one temporarily it will be hooked up externally. Anybody have any suggestions on amps, the BFD will be purchased almost 100 percent in time.

 

[jaxvon]

For an amp, I don't think you can do better than Behringer on a High Schooler's budget. At the bottom, there's the A500 amp. It's nice, small, and passively cooled. It pushes 2x230 into 4 ohm loads, or 1x500 into an 8ohm bridged load. The Behringer EuroPower EP1500 that puts out 1x1400 watts into 4 ohms bridged, or 2x700 watts into two, 2 ohm loads. The only downside is the fan, at the low price of $279.99 USD.

 

[basham]

Just my .02

Rocky,
have you looked at the RythmikAudio offerings. These things have have the most articulate bass I have ever heard. Low end output is at about 16Hz. in my room.

The best way to prevent fraying on the end of the sonotube is to mix up a 50/50 mixture of Titebond and water and then paint it on the edges.Here is my tube based sub using a 10 ply Maple drum shell. Here is how I fixed my amp mounting issue.

 

[Rocky]

If i go for the Refrence High Fidelity I am only going to need 400w of power into 4ohms. I am finding it hard to get a monoblock or stereo amp pusing 400w into 1 channel at 4ohms. I dont think I can use the a500 becacuse it has to be bridged to put out 500w, and even then it is 8ohms which is no good.

On a whiter note, I built a speaker stand yesterday. It turned out pretty nice, but I am going to take it appart ans substitute the MDF support column with a PVC pipe filled with sand.

I am also going to try to make my 17 1/2" top and bottom caps today. Seeing as my router is at the cottage, and i wont be going up there for a while, I am going to try to make up a jig that will allow me to cut my circles on the scroll saw I have. I am thinking that it wont be too hard.

 

[Rocky]

what do you guys think about this sub? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-WtN4pYo0mfA/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=037AW1200V