Simple Amp/Reciever for 2.1 Setup

[Suds]

As the title states, I am looking for a simple Amp or Receiver for a 2.1 Setup(that I'll be using at my computer). The speaker I am using are Monitor Audio BR2's, not sure on the sub woofer yet. The only real requirement I need is the ability to run the Monitor Audio BR2 and a Sub Woofer from it. Price range is negotiable, but I ideally want to spend the least possible without skimping too much on features/quality. $200 or below would be ideal, but I could go up to $300.

The one I have my eyes set on now is the Onkyo TX-SR505. I haven't really seen anything else that looks good, or is recommended. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

 

[Adam]

The Onkyo 500 series has gotten really good reviews on average over the past few years. So, if it has the features that you want, the 505 is certainly worth considering. Amazon.com has it for $190. For a good computer-room system, I think it's a nice choice.

You may also want to consider one of Onkyo's stereo receivers. The TX-8222 (50W/channel) and the TX-8522 (100W/channel) get good reviews. Amazon is cheaper than Crutchfield, but I didn't do an extensive search for other prices. Those don't have a sub output (as far as I know), though.

Adam

 

[Suds]

Does the receiver/amp need a Sub Out to connect the Sub Woofer, or is there another way to connect them?

 

[mouettus]

What's nice with receivers for PCs is that you can buy used as you don't even need HDMI! A 5 years old flagship could do the trick for not much $$!

 

[Adam]

Does the receiver/amp need a Sub Out to connect the Sub Woofer, or is there another way to connect them?

That depends on the sub. If a sub has speaker-level inputs and output, then you can connect the left and right speaker cables from the receiver to the sub, then run left and right speaker cables from the sub to the speakers. In that set-up, the sub handles the frequency filter. A subwoofer output is a nice feature on a receiver, but it isn't critical if the subwoofer had speaker-level inputs and outputs.

 

[mouettus]

That depends on the sub. If a sub has speaker-level inputs and output, then you can connect the left and right speaker cables from the receiver to the sub, then run left and right speaker cables from the sub to the speakers. In that set-up, the sub handles the frequency filter. A subwoofer output is a nice feature on a receiver, but it isn't critical if the subwoofer had speaker-level inputs and outputs.

The subwoofer I'm "eyeing" is an ESW-V8 for computer use and it only has one pair of input and outputs. Like it was made to be bought in a pair and used with one speaker at a time.

 

[Adam]

The subwoofer I'm "eyeing" is an ESW-V8 for computer use and it only has one pair of input and outputs. Like it was made to be bought in a pair and used with one speaker at a time.

mouettus, you got me curious so I looked up that sub. Turns out, it actually has left and right speaker-level inputs - it just has no outputs. I guess the thinking is that you'd run the subwoofer from the "B" speaker jacks on the receiver. Either that or just not run any speakers and enjoy low frequencies only.

 

[Haoleb]

I would personally be looking for a small integrated amplifier for your situation. Both NAD and Cambridge Audio make small respectable integrateds that are within your pricerange when bought used. Keep an eye out for the NAD C320BEE. If you dont need a tuner then this really is the way to go vs getting a stereo or HT reciever.

The sub your looking at just hooks up parallel to your speaker outputs, You dont need to put it on the "B" speaker output but can if you want. Its the same thing.

 

[Suds]

Kind of off topic, but meh. With sub woofers, if they are going to be placed close to a wall, would front-ported sub woofers work better? Or does that not matter as much as it does with speakers?

And how would the Cambridge Audio Azur 340A work, with say the X-Sub from AV123? And would Bi-Wiring with it still work with the X-Sub(If it improves SQ or anything)?

 

[Haoleb]

as long as your leaving a few inches from the wall to the back of the sub it should be ok if you go rear ported.

Im sure the 340a would be a great unit for what you need and will work with the Xsub just fine. As far as Biwiring goes you could still do it with the sub if you wanted to. The best way would be to run one set of speaker wires from the B speaker outputs on the amp to the sub, And then run your biwire cables from the A outputs to your speakers.

My personal opinion? Dont bother with the Biwiring.

 

[mouettus]

I would personally be looking for a small integrated amplifier for your situation. Both NAD and Cambridge Audio make small respectable integrateds that are within your pricerange when bought used. Keep an eye out for the NAD C320BEE. If you dont need a tuner then this really is the way to go vs getting a stereo or HT reciever.

The sub your looking at just hooks up parallel to your speaker outputs, You dont need to put it on the "B" speaker output but can if you want. Its the same thing.

Do I lose some power by hooking it up that way?


I own the NAD and I would kill to have a sub output right now.

 

[mouettus]

My personal opinion? Dont bother with the Biwiring.

Words of wisdom

 

[Haoleb]

Do I lose some power by hooking it up that way?


I own the NAD and I would kill to have a sub output right now.

Im not sure what you mean about loosing power. The A and B speaker outputs are basically the exact same thing. Its just that instead of having only one set of connectors there are two and you can switch off one set. Hooking a powered sub up with speaker level inputs also does not draw any power from your amplifier. Using the speaker level inputs is really no different than using the LFE output or preamp outputs, But its meant for those of us without recievers that have that feature.

 

[mouettus]

Im not sure what you mean about loosing power. The A and B speaker outputs are basically the exact same thing. Its just that instead of having only one set of connectors there are two and you can switch off one set.

My 320BEE can't A/B. I have only one set of speaker outputs. How could I set up my speakers/sub then?

Hooking a powered sub up with speaker level inputs also does not draw any power from your amplifier. Using the speaker level inputs is really no different than using the LFE output or preamp outputs, But its meant for those of us without recievers that have that feature.

That's the answer I wanted to hear

 

[MDS]

Im not sure what you mean about loosing power. The A and B speaker outputs are basically the exact same thing. Its just that instead of having only one set of connectors there are two and you can switch off one set. Hooking a powered sub up with speaker level inputs also does not draw any power from your amplifier.

That is not correct. The B speaker terminals are shared with the A speaker terminals and thus are powered by the receiver. A+B are wired in parallell so not only will the receiver be powering the 'A' speakers but it will also be powering the 'B' speakers. When the 'B' speakers are 4 ohms, like a typical sub, that is a huge strain on the reciever. As I alluded to before Onkyo receivers will automatically switch to stereo only mode when A+B is engaged, but even then it is a strain. Just say no to that arrangement.

 

[Haoleb]

That is not correct. The B speaker terminals are shared with the A speaker terminals and thus are powered by the receiver. A+B are wired in parallell so not only will the receiver be powering the 'A' speakers but it will also be powering the 'B' speakers. When the 'B' speakers are 4 ohms, like a typical sub, that is a huge strain on the reciever. As I alluded to before Onkyo receivers will automatically switch to stereo only mode when A+B is engaged, but even then it is a strain. Just say no to that arrangement.

were on a different thread here

Talking about powered subwoofers and speaker level inputs.

 

[Haoleb]

My 320BEE can't A/B. I have only one set of speaker outputs. How could I set up my speakers/sub then?

Just run your speaker wires to your speakers from the amp like you usually would. And then run another set of speaker wires from the same terminals on the amp to the speaker level inputs on the subwoofer.

The wires going to the sub dont need to be of very large gauge as there is nealy no current being drawn. I am using a setup like this and have just some sheilded 24/4 security cable I had left over which was purchased at Home depot.

If the sub has both inputs and outputs you could run the speaker wires to the sub and then onto the speakers but I dont really like this arrangement myself.

 

[MDS]

were on a different thread here

Talking about powered subwoofers and speaker level inputs.

Perhaps I misunderstood, but you theorized that the sub is passive and I said that if it is and you run it on the B speaker terminals, it will be powered by the receiver. That is badness, if it is indeed the case.

If the sub doesn't have high level outputs, then ditch it.

 

[Haoleb]

Perhaps I misunderstood, but you theorized that the sub is passive and I said that if it is and you run it on the B speaker terminals, it will be powered by the receiver. That is badness, if it is indeed the case.

If the sub doesn't have high level outputs, then ditch it.

Right in the other thread with the guy trying to power his HTIAB sub. Not that I dont agree with what your saying it just doesnt pertain to the advice given for this particular situation.

My EP600 doesnt have speaker level outputs (but it does have speaker level inputs which I am using) I suppose I should ditch it too?

 

[MDS]

My EP600 doesnt have speaker level outputs (but it does have speaker level inputs which I am using) I suppose I should ditch it too?

If you have to run it off the B speaker terminals, then yes.