Should I bi-amp with Yamaha RX-A3000?

P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Bi-amping with a single AVR provides no high/low signal separation and questionable power increase when not maxing out your output and no power increase when maxing out your output. Does that sound right?
It matters not whether it is single of double, each amp will send full spectrum of signals but, as Yamaha had told you, the crossover of the speaker will enforce the separation so the amp that is connected to the tweeter will, and can only pass the frequencies that the crossover allows. So you do get the separation, whether you will hear the effect or not, is a different matter.
 
J

jeannot

Audioholic
So I guess that answers my question about bass clipping effecting mid/high.
Whether the x-over is active or passive (speaker cross-over), they both relieve the amp from having to provide high-current to the woofers, because it is the current that consumes resources. When an amp just gives voltage with no current (like no speaker connected), no power is consumed.

So I've come to this conclusion thus far. Bi-amping with a single AVR provides no high/low signal separation and questionable power increase when not maxing out your output
True
and no power increase when maxing out your output. Does that sound right?
There MAY be a power increase. NO if the power supply is the limiting factory but YES if your amp output stage current limitation is the limiting factor.

And what people forget to mention, is that in single amp when you approach clipping, the amp clipping because of the lows (where most of the power is needed) creates distorsion that is heard in the mid-highs. But in bi-amp, the amp clipping in the lows is heard a lot less because the distortion is only output through the woofer, and the high amp is not affected. As a result, you can get more decibels with less audible clipping distortion. That's one reason why hi-power sound systems always bi-amp. I know, I know. It's pretty darned loud at that point, I'm just exposing a point.
But what about this... Does bi-amping with a single AVR provide greater control of high/low frequencies by allowing you to boost or lower the discrete amplifiers separately? IOW, if I want more mid/high, can I boost the levels coming from my surround back channels feeding the midranges and tweeters while leaving the front channels feeding the woofers alone? Is this possibly better than using the builtin equalizer?
Good point. They will both work, but with difference compensation curves. It's one more equalization option for you.
I'm not even sure my AVR will allow for this, but if it can, could that make bi-amping worthwhile?
As I said before whatever the opinions are here and depending on how you use your system, you will never know until you try.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
When an amp just gives voltage with no current (like no speaker connected), no power is consumed.
That's the point I was trying to make but you made it clearer. Yes in passive biamp the amp, say the one that drives the tweeter, still has to amplify the full spectrum signal. But there is still separation because the crossover for the tweeter, with the jumper removed is now isolated from the LF driver so this amp will see very high impedance to L.F. and the current flow in this pair of wires will therefore have very little L.F. contents in it.
 
M

mrceolla

Audioholic Intern
Hi y'all,

Thanks for all the continued input.

Thought I would post Yamaha's response to my last few questions about bi-amping:

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How much additional power is sent to the front speakers when bi-amping?
140 watts from the surround back speaker terminal. That does not double the wattage because you are sending 140w to power the subwoofer then the front channel does the Mid/Highs.

Do you only notice a difference in your setup when listening to 2ch material or do you hear the improvement with surround sound material as well? How would you describe the improvement in sound?
I notice a difference in all listen modes and the sound is clearer/sharper, bass more defined with a little more volume.

When bi-amping, is it possible to individually adjust the output level of the front and surround back terminals? In other words, if I want a bit more mid/high, do I have the ability to boost the surround back output while leaving the front output untouched?
No the front & surround back act as one.

Does the ohm rating of a speaker change when the jumpers are removed?
If my speakers are 8 ohms with the jumpers in place, are each pair of terminals still 8 ohms with the jumpers removed? If not, is there anything special I would need to do in the receiver's setup?
If the are 8 ohms you set the receiver to 8, nothing special.

Will the receiver run hotter or cooler when bi-amping?
Not really, maybe a slight difference.

Do speaker wire lengths need to be exact when bi-amping?
No, not exact but I try to make the close.

Is it always recommended to bi-amp in a 5.1 setup if the fronts are capable of it?
I would do it but its not a requirement.

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So, I ran the extra wires and will test it out for myself. What I've read in this thread makes me a skeptic, but I think I'll just have to try it so I KNOW. I'm still waiting for my speakers to arrive.

Thanks again and I will try to remember to report back.
 
N

ndlaham

Audiophyte
5.1 receiver to 2 channels bi-amp

Just a question about all this I still haven't quite understood.

I just bought two 150 watt floor standing speakers. I didn't have any speakers at all before so I am just starting with 2 for music. Now I also have a 5 or 6 year old Yamaha receiver that I think advertised 75 watts per channel. It is 5.1 capable, so I usually see the specs will also say 375 watts total (75 x 5 channels).

Anyway, from what I have gathered, even if I'm only using 2 channels, my speakers are only getting 75 watts. Even though my receiver is capable of 375.

First off, is that true? Does that mean that 225 Watts are not being used in the other 3 channels (375 - 75*2)? Or does the receiver distribute more power to the 2 channels when 3 aren't being used and then I would get 150 watts to each channel, thus using 300 watts total and getting the most speaker power possible?

Secondly, if it is true that I only get 75 watts per channel no matter what, then in theory if I bi-amp from the rear speaker outputs (which also get 75 watts), shouldn't I get 150 watts to each speaker (300 watts total) and get more power and thus more sound?

This pretty much goes back to the OPs question but I thought my case was slightly different.
 
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