- One question though, if the TV does supports 4k/120hz, VRR, HDMI2.2, etc, but the receiver (Yamaha RXV2085) only supports 4k/60hz and HDMI2.1, etc - does this mean I should plug the Playstation for the kids into the TV, rather than the receiver (because if I plug it in the receiver, the receiver becomes the limiting factor right)? The compromise there is that I would not get good sound (it will use the TV's sound I assume) but at least the kids will enjoy playing at 4k/120hz, etc? Do I have this right?
I think you are getting a little confused between HDMI Specs and HDCP standards. I'm no expert on the fine details of these specs, but if I'm wrong, one of the many experts here will certainly chime in. (I put links to the manuals below for ease of reference)
The
Sony 65A80J TV Specs is HDCP2.3(for HDMI™1/2/3/4) and has
FEATURES SPECIFIED IN HDMI 2.1 => 4K120/eARC/VRR
1/ALLM
The
Yamaha RXV2085 Manual (Page 186) advises 4K UltraHD Video (include 4K/60, 50Hz 10/12bit). Content Protection: HDCP compatible (HDMI [AV 1–7]: HDCP 2.2/2.3 compatible)
So the HDCP specs for both are compatible.
I have no idea what version of PlayStation you are referring to (nor do I want to spend hours reading up on current PlayStation specs.), but I do know all of the components in the "chain" must have the same HDCP level. Any device in the chain that prevents the HDCP digital handshake from happening will prevent you from seeing a 4K image. HDCP (and for that matter HDMI) is all about copyright protection and not technical improvements. IMHO running Audio and Video in a single cable was just a side benefit that made consumers forget the loss in flexibility and recording.
Now the refresh rate differences 60 versus 120 Hz are something that can impact Gaming. I know the PS5 can do 120 Hz, but my tech tapped out on the PS4 (60 Hz maximum) when my son shifted virtually all his gaming to Computers (which I build for him). However here's a quote I found on line that I thought was worthwhile:
"Unlike the PS4, the PS5 supports 120Hz, meaning games can be played at 120 FPS if designed to hit that target. This can make or break the experience for some people, but it's important to note that not everyone can tell
a huge difference between 60 FPS and 120 FPS in practice."
So I suggest you need to evaluate what PlayStation set you have, and if the games played will be impacted versus if running a second cable to the TV is worthwhile.
As I mentioned before, I'd fish this low voltage cable at the same time as the one from the receiver so as not to have to surface mount it. Check your local regulations, but I'd be shocked (
) if you are required to have an Electrician run HDMI cables.
- TV is 65A80J (had an old LCD for last 20 years, just bought this one this week and waiting for delivery), believe it supports wireless, which I think I'll stick with versus having to use a powerline adapter
The Sony 65A80J TV is Wi-Fi Certified 802.11a/b/g/n/ac
Questions:
- Is there generally a minimum or maximum guideline (or at least from a Dolby Atmos perspective) for distance between the speakers they should be apart, and to the primary seating position? e.g. in the current position (I've moved the couch perhaps 1 metre forward last night, whilst keeping in mind not to put it at 50% the width of the room to avoid nulls), they're 1.8metres apart, and 2.2metres to the primary seating position. Would this be ok, or would the L/R channel blends in too much with these distances?
In my "paint by numbers" approach to Dolby Atmos Installation it all starts with a correct Stereo speaker set-up, and you build upon it. That typically means an equilateral triangle with the L&R speakers the same distance apart (minimum 2.4 meters / 8 feet - maximum 4.8 meters / 16 feet) as either speaker is from the Primary Listening position. The sound is impacted by being close to a wall so all speakers should be away from the wall. (Okay, I'll fess up - Subs sometimes go against a wall for reinforcement. But that come later after listening tests.).
Then I position the TV and Center channel speaker in the middle between the stereo pair. I try to add the surrounds at the same width as the now (front) FL & FR but behind the Primary Listening position. Now add Atmos in ceiling speakers in a line from each surround to it's corresponding front speaker. All the left ones are in line, as are the rights..) (I don't like the bouncing kind and don't support Threads with discussions on them. Sorry.) As long as it complies with Dolby's Installation guidelines (see link below) you'll be fine. Seating positions in Nulls are to be avoided, but the Wife Acceptance Factors (WAF!) often make all of the above mute; and you just have to live with it.
We all know they rule on furniture placement and often speaker size as well. Just remember you are trying to immerse the listener in the sound field.
Dolby Atmos Installation Guidelines
- Any suggestions on the 'decorative covers' you mentioned? I've seen a few things but they have all sorts of names, just want to ensure I'm getting the right ones
You are in Australia and I'm in Canada. What's here in my market is probably not what's there. Perhaps one of the Audioholics from Australia will chime in and offer some guidance. Sorry.
- Just curious why do you want the couch facing the TV away from the wall? Does it mess with the sound reflections or something?
As I said above: The sound is impacted by being close to a wall so all speakers should be away from the wall. You can't develop a sound field with any speaker too close to you either.
Aside questions:
- I will also be buying a pair (and eventually another) of KEF Q50s (Dolby Atmos-enabled speakers); which I believe only have 'upfiring' drivers, but they do support (per the manual) sitting atop speakers OR mounted on the walls (which I believe it's then correctly called 'front heights', assuming I mount these on the front wall). I hear upfiring is inferior to being mounted on the wall, but of course I think it's worth trialling it out first before moving it onto the wall right? Or do you think there's no disadvantage (apart from drilling holes in the wall) of putting it straight onto the wall?
- No bouncy speakers please! (I don't like the bouncing kind and don't support Threads with discussions on them)
- If so, how high should they be? Manual doesn't help, it suggests 600mm above the MLP's ears, but I'd think that's too low and doesn't achieve the angle required. I'd imagine as high as posible up to the ceiling, with enough speaker wire clearance, is ideal? And with a 30° to 45° angle towards the MLP? I read in the Dolby Speaker Placement whitepaper that they recommend 30° , unless it's mounted ceiling speakers wherein 45° is recommended. However anecdotally I've also read that a steeper angle generally is better (i.e. 45° as opposed to 30°), given that it enables more separation between the bed layer and the heights layer. What's your opinion on this?
- Most folks seem to typically go to in-ceiling speakers due to the WAF, and even their desire for a "cleaner" install. All of the major OEMs of these speakers are full range and will handle the Atmos sound stream without issue. So no worries there. Of course some do it better than others, but IMHO it's not a stretch technically.
- Given these are Atmos-enabled speakers, does this mean they are not 'ideally' suitable as height speakers? I read something about how to be Atmos-enabled speakers (and certified for it), they have to incorporate the Atmos bouncer treble contours into their frequency response and therefore are not suitable as height speakers. This is contrast to perhaps speakers that can change between upfiring or downfiring modes.
- However surely the receiver's calibration can adjust for this? If I put these up as Heights, in the receiver, do I leave them as 'Dolby enabled speakers' or do I categorise them as 'Front Heights'?
Let's not pull going to Heights Speakers into the Dolby Atmos discussion. IMHO Heights were a pre-cursor to immersive sound, and has been superseded by it. If (when?) you get your Atmos setup done right, it will be better than what can be achieved by Heights.
Thanks so much Tim - you've been really helpful!
My name is
Jim
You're Welcome!