Riser for 2nd row of seats....how high should it be?

[Johnd]

I don't have a projector, or hang-down lighting.

SheepStar

Even if you did, an 8'0" ceiling w/ two steps (assuming 7") still allows 6'10" headroom. I don't know of too many people that will top out at that height.

 

[bpape]

If you are building the riser to be a resonator (most common way to do it), then it should be sealed to the floor and air tight. Each cavity inside can be used in a separate tuning to broaden things a little bit.

If you work with what height you have to start with (and plan on using a double layer of 3/4" MDF for the top plate to be able to tune low enough), then you can plan the perforation spacing and hole size to tune to your desired frequency. This can actually be quite effective.

I'd also agree with Gerry that many times, a higher riser is required. You need 2 things:

1. A clear path to the LCR speakers as described previously.
2. An unobstructed view of the entire screen

Bryan

 

[majorloser]

Even if you did, an 8'0" ceiling w/ two steps (assuming 7") still allows 6'10" headroom. I don't know of too many people that will top out at that height.

I'm 6' 1" and I'd hit my head on my projector or my cable track lighting!

Besides, you don't want your guest to feel like they're being crammed into a tight space. Very few 8 foot ceilings are REALLY 8 foot tall. The extra room can also allow for sound treatment or a star light ceiling (my next project).

EDIT: You should also take into account the back height of your front row seats before setting the back row riser height. The shortest person sitting in the back row should be able to view the screen with the front row seats fully in the upright position. Speaking of recline, you need to take into account the amount of room it will require to walk around a fully reclined chair on the platform and clearance with the front row when they are reclined too. It can take up LOTS of space.

 

[Johnd]

I'm 6' 1" and I'd hit my head on my projector or my cable track lighting!

Understood. I'm 6'3" and I like my space. I made the suggestion for Sheep, who said he had no projector nor any drop down lighting. But I agree that dedicated ht's ought to have 8'0" + ceilings, lest we get claustrophobic and the sound just closes in on you.

 

[kaltorak1964]

I am going to do this as well, was just wondering if any one drew up any plans to help facilitate this or was all of the examples just done on the fly? a materials list would be nice also if someone has one.

 

[Danilo F Fularon]

Hi All,

Obviously, I am just coming at the tail end of this forum, years later. I am currently working on my HT. I just finished framing the walls. I am now planning to work on the riser for the second row seats. Any pictures, documents, images, etc., that you all can send my way will be very much appreciated. I thought about going all out by installing the walls and ceiling with Resilient Channels (RC), Roxul, QuietRock, and Green glue to do the sound proofing but I am having second thoughts about the RCs because of labor and materials costs. Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[gene]

This is what I built many years ago. Only change is place the ported side towards the back wall for better performance and leave it open.

http://www.audioholics.com/diy-audio/multifunction-theater-seat-riser

 

[TLS Guy]

If you have 8' ceilings, then one comfortable step is just right. You don't want the second row too close to the ceiling.

This is what I did.

The rear cavity is filled with sound absorbing material so as not to ring.

There is a row of bead LED lights across the step as shown, for safety, so the step is easily seen in low light.

In terms of bass this room sounds just right and does not need any further treatment. Sound is very uniform in all seats.

 

[Danilo F Fularon]

Recommendations I am reading is having the riser floating, not nailed to the walls and floor, and insulating inside. So, does that I mean I should also nail an MDF or plywood underneath to enclose the entire riser? Or does the insulations sits on the floor between each cavity? My plan is to follow the floating riser and let it sit on the floor AFTER the carpet floor has been installed or on top of the carpet. Then wrap the riser with the same type of carpet.

 

[TLS Guy]

Recommendations I am reading is having the riser floating, not nailed to the walls and floor, and insulating inside. So, does that I mean I should also nail an MDF or plywood underneath to enclose the entire riser? Or does the insulations sits on the floor between each cavity? My plan is to follow the floating riser and let it sit on the floor AFTER the carpet floor has been installed or on top of the carpet. Then wrap the riser with the same type of carpet.

Do you know how your room sounds? If it OK, I would just build it and fill it, so it does not resonate.

I design low Q speakers, and I don't need to make the room dry. Between the speakers and the way the room is the balance is very pleasing indeed.

For a long time, I have felt a good deal of this room treating, is actually compensating for speakers that have a total system Q too high.

I can assure you low Q speakers sound fine in a lot of rooms, probably most, unless they are odd, like very square rooms.

My other observation is that if a room is a real dog, you will only take the rough edges of it, and not make it good.

In rooms, dimensions, surfaces and furnishings are primary in how the room sounds.