Replaced binding posts, now going to standby

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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
I replaced the binding posts on one of my triads, hooked it back up and it set my nad c316bee into protect. Pulled everything apart again, nothing crossed, no cracks or loose connections on the xover (or any driver, location) I switched from right to left output, swapped cables from the other. It all follows the single triad. (The 'good' triad works on both channels, and with either set of cables)

Bad/perfect timing for a cap to fail on the xover?
As soon as any volume is put to it, the nad goes into protect. I disconnected the woofer, still protect.

How can I properly diagnose this?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I replaced the binding posts on one of my triads, hooked it back up and it set my nad c316bee into protect. Pulled everything apart again, nothing crossed, no cracks or loose connections on the xover (or any driver, location) I switched from right to left output, swapped cables from the other. It all follows the single triad. (The 'good' triad works on both channels, and with either set of cables)

Bad/perfect timing for a cap to fail on the xover?
As soon as any volume is put to it, the nad goes into protect. I disconnected the woofer, still protect.

How can I properly diagnose this?
I guess the first question is: - what was the reason you had to increase the binding posts?

You obviously made a mistake somehow, or have a short.

So you need a multimeter.

See what the resistance is across the binging posts first. If there is a short, then unsolder the wires and recheck the binding post and and see what the impedance is from the wires leading from the crossover. If there is a short here, you will have to remove the crossover and trouble shoot that. The first place to look would be to see if a cap in the low pass circuit has failed and is a dead short to ground. The next possibility is a series cap in the high pass circuit is shorted out causing a short through a parallel inductor.
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
The good one is 11.6 at the posts, the bad is 5.6
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
Should note, speaker was fine, received new posts (triads are a few yrs old) only components disconnected were the woofer and leads at the posts
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Should note, speaker was fine, received new posts (triads are a few yrs old) only components disconnected were the woofer and leads at the posts
Almost certainly the caps in the low pass filter need replacing.
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
Then you need to remove the crossover and troubleshoot it.
Bare with me, big thanks for the reply. I disconnected the xover, and for craps and giggles checked the binding posts. Again, nothing connected. I got a reading of 5.7, it should be 0 or "1" since nothing is connected, correct?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Bare with me, big thanks for the reply. I disconnected the xover, and for craps and giggles checked the binding posts. Again, nothing connected. I got a reading of 5.7, it should be 0 or "1" since nothing is connected, correct?
No, the resistance between the binding post terminals should be infinity. If your meter can record a resistance between the binding posts, then they are faulty. However, I have never heard of such and thing, and can not think how that could occur, unless you have solder going between the posts. Please send a picture of both sides of that binding post cup. I suspect you have somehow made some gross mistake in replacing the posts.
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
This makes no sense....last picture is showing nothing connected to the posts. If both posts are all the way against the enclosure I get a reading, if one is pulled away I get nothing (or infinity) original posts had no washers or plastic/grommets. Original posts are nickle in color, new posts are gold plated
 

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Truthslayer

Truthslayer

Full Audioholic
This makes no sense....last picture is showing nothing connected to the posts. If both posts are all the way against the enclosure I get a reading, if one is pulled away I get nothing (or infinity) original posts had no washers or plastic/grommets. Original posts are nickle in color, new posts are gold plated
Scratching my head on your measuring method. Anyways.
When your reassembling it, something has to be touching to make it go into protect as you say.
What happens when you take the speaker wire from the nad straight to the triad speaker wires ( without the binding post) ?
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
Ok, I checked the old binding post with a magnet, the part that would rest against the cabinet is not magnetic (silver ring under the black part). Apparently the veneer is conductive? and i do need a rubber washer/grommet for the new posts.

I'm still baffled but at least i have it figured it out, thanks as always for the replys. This is still some kind of witchery but at least I have my triads running 100% again.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
This makes no sense....last picture is showing nothing connected to the posts. If both posts are all the way against the enclosure I get a reading, if one is pulled away I get nothing (or infinity) original posts had no washers or plastic/grommets. Original posts are nickle in color, new posts are gold plated
A picture really helps.

That is a horrible and crude way to mount binding posts. Obviously the back of the cabinet has become conductive possibly through humidity.

I would never design a speaker connection like that.

You need to mod both speakers before you blow up your NAD.

You need to get some plastic, and cut it square. Then you need to cut a square hole in the back of each speaker, that is a bit smaller than the plastic. Mount the binding posts to the plastic and then screw the plastic to the enclosure.

A better alternative is to replace those binding posts with a terminal cup.

This is your best solution.



This is Triad's fault, for crude and nasty design. Speaker companies just give you the right pip.

If you want good speakers, build them yourself!
 
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pewternhrata

Audioholic Chief
A picture really helps.

That is a horrible and crude way to mount binding posts. Obviously the back of the cabinet has become conductive possibly through humidity.

I would never design a speaker connection like that.

You need to mod both speakers before you blow up your NAD.

You need to get some plastic, and cut it square. Then you need to cut a square hole in the back of each speaker, that is a bit smaller than the plastic. Mount the binding posts to the plastic and then screw the plastic to the enclosure.

A better alternative is to replace those binding posts with a terminal cup.

This is your best solution.



This is Triad's fault, for crude and nasty design. Speaker companies just give you the right pip.

If you want good speakers, build them yourself!
Picture of old vs new was posted, and I agree, but also take a look at harbeth for example, but now I see insulated binding posts. Fortunately everything works and I have the nad to run them with for a bit before I hook them up to my onix
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
That response helps a lot.
Not meant to help particularly, it's a puzzling thought as to how that would work....so far am mystified by a situation of simply changing terminals! I do wish you luck, just tuning in....
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
A picture really helps.

That is a horrible and crude way to mount binding posts. Obviously the back of the cabinet has become conductive possibly through humidity.

I would never design a speaker connection like that.

You need to mod both speakers before you blow up your NAD.

You need to get some plastic, and cut it square. Then you need to cut a square hole in the back of each speaker, that is a bit smaller than the plastic. Mount the binding posts to the plastic and then screw the plastic to the enclosure.

A better alternative is to replace those binding posts with a terminal cup.

This is your best solution.



This is Triad's fault, for crude and nasty design. Speaker companies just give you the right pip.

If you want good speakers, build them yourself!
So moisture in the wood products would be sufficient?
 

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