Replace lamp+housing or bulb only?

agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Is there any reason to buy the complete housing replacement along with the bulb?

For example, for Sony HW45ES the manual specifies LMP-H210 as the replacement. I can get that on B&H (Sony authorized) for $300.

Or, using the bulb specs from the B&H product page,
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if can get a UHP 215/150W 0.8 bulb, any reason not to go with it?
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I have researched this a bit for you.

I would not replace the bulb in the housing yourself.

That is a ultra high pressure mercury vapor bulb. To me it looks very fragile. The contents are highly toxic. If you break the new bulb or the old one in the process, you are putting yourself at great risk. In addition that type of bulb you can not touch with your hands.

Also I suspect there are alignment issues.

I think you need a complete Sony certified unit.

The old bulb must be disposed of as highly toxic waste.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Hope your recovery is going better than expected.

I'm comfortable handling the delicate process. I've changed the BR laser on my PS3 and non removable battery on my Mom's laptop. I can even take precautions to ensure the bulb stays free of oil from my hands. That said, your contention about the hazard of Mercury contamination and bulb misalignment in the housing is judicious.

I'll bite the bullet and buy a complete lamp and housing.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hope your recovery is going better than expected.

I'm comfortable handling the delicate process. I've changed the BR laser on my PS3 and non removable battery on my Mom's laptop. I can even take precautions to ensure the bulb stays free of oil from my hands. That said, your contention about the hazard of Mercury contamination and bulb misalignment in the housing is judicious.

I'll bite the bullet and buy a complete lamp and housing.
That certainly would be the safest way to proceed. You don't want to have to send for the Hazmat crew!
 
basspig

basspig

Full Audioholic
Alignment issues would concern me more than bulb handling. With an appropriate face shield and heavy gloves you can do it reasonably safely.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
I didn't really chime in on this, but lamp vs. bulb replacement is a question that comes up over the years and there are several reasons to buy a lamp, and one reason not to.

Replacing the bulb inside a lamp assembly is easy. The bulb really is designed to fit a very specific way and the rest is designed to handle projecting the light from the bulb through the lamp properly. It's not overly dangerous to swap out, and general caution should be taken, just as you would do with a car light bulb. Typically, there are solid instructions with a bare bulb, on how to replace it in the projector. If not, there is always YouTube.

So, yeah, not a big deal to replace the just the bulb yourself inside the existing lamp chassis.

If it is easy, and it saves you $100 or more, why not just do this all the time instead of dropping $200 or far more on a manufacturer branded original lamp?

Well, it could cost you your entire projector.

The lamp itself has parts to it and the manufacturer bulb also, protects against heat and UV radiation. This is perhaps the top issue I've heard of in the last 15+ years of digital projection. People put in a replacement bulb and it runs hot. It burns up the plastic internals of the projector, most often the lens, and the entire projector is ruined. I have also heard of it blowing out power supplies because it draws more voltage than the projector is designed for. Other issues? I've heard of aftermarket lamps that blow out in 500 hours when the original lamp lasted 2,500 hours. So, any cost savings are removed. I've heard of lamps which are significantly dimmer than the manufacturer lamps, so they aren't restoring the projector to out of the box quality.

These issues aren't something that always happen, but it does happen and if you gamble on a aftermarket bare bulb, or even after market complete lamp, you may run into any of these issues. The odds seems to be better that you get a decent after market product these days, but it's not 100% at this point. Not even close.

If your projector is cheap (sub $1,000) and you use it often, say 2,000+ hours a year, and replacement lamps are pricey. Then doing a bit of homework on bare bulb replacements is a good idea. You are far more likely to get a acceptable replacement and get another 1,500+ hours of usable life from that lamp then it is to hurt your projector or fail very early.

Better! Know your lamp replacement costs before you buy. Epson leads the market with their cheap lamps, but the market is changing and the days of cheap projectors and $200+ replacement lamps are pretty much gone. Epson changed the game and has solid entry level projectors with Epson original replacement lamps as low as 50 bucks. In a recent article from Projector Central, here were the published lamp prices for a manufacturer original replacement lamp:

Epson HC 1060 $49
Optoma HD143X
$89
Optoma HD27e
$89
ViewSonic PJD7720HD
$99
ViewSonic PJD7828HDL
$99
BenQ HT1070A
$149
ViewSonic Pro 7827HD
$149
Optoma HD29Darbee
$179

So, there is an obvious shift from the traditional $250+ lamps of just five years ago to more realistic lamp pricing. This move, I believe, is about fighting solid state lamps such as LED and laser models, which will be taking over at some point as a default. No doubt that the less expensive Epson models are very consumer friendly on lamp pricing while delivering a solid entry level home theater image.

Meanwhile, entry level products from most manufacturers are staying under $100 for replacement lamps, which I think should be a target price. If any manufacturer had lamps at $100 or less, I would say that at no point should anyone buy anything else. I also believe it hurts manufacturers (BenQ!!!) when they have significantly higher prices and don't drop them to match the competition.
 
basspig

basspig

Full Audioholic
Amazon has the lamp assembly for $995 and one other place lists it at $1995. But I found a bare bulb for $150 that's made by Philips, and is the same bulb that Sony uses in their lamp assembly.

Avoid the Chinese made lamps. They are not worth the asking price. Not sure how they would overheat, but if a poorly made lamp drew a lot more current than the stock lamp, that could do it.

If you use the exact bulb that your lamp manufacturer used, you should be fine.

I can't emphasis enough the importance of wearing a full face shield and protective clothing and heavy gloves. Preferably the type used by the bomb squad for defusing explosives. Although the odds are small, it's not worth the risk of losing a hand, eye, or property damage, should one explode on you.
 
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