Pre-wiring a room for two subs

T

tparm

Audioholic
Hi Audioholics subwoofer friends,

I've read Gene's excellent article, articles on SVS, etc etc, I'd also like your input. I'm building a new home and a new system in a dedicated room (attached), the next purchase will be subs (probably two Monolith ported 15s) and I'll need to pre-wire the room prior to having the ability to sub crawl or take measurements. A note, if you can't use wireless sub adapters for Dirac and Audyssey, should you really use them at all?

The room is 15.5x31x9, sealed to the rest of the house, there is a bar in the back behind the seating area, planning for the seating position to be roughly 11.5" from the speakers baffles which is 14' from the front wall (will adjust seating / speaker position after REW and before Dirac). I don't have room for the subs at midpoint on side walls as the room is too narrow. With the door and bar in the rear of the room, positioning is possible but it takes some careful planning; I could place the sub under the bar counter top, under the sink, which is midpoint of rear wall and place the other one at midpoint of front wall (have to figure out center speaker location as it'll be on a stand, perhaps in front of the sub). I could also do left rear and front right corners and build the bar cabinet around the one sub. Lastly, and the easiest, is 1/4 and 3/4 front wall.

I am fine running cabling to all these points, but the bar cabinet will need to to be built to accommodate placement. I have full autonomy to place speakers and subs anywhere I want, but I want a clean install.

If it matters, other subs under consideration are Rythmic FV15HP and Paradigm Defiance X15. It will be a 5.2.4 system, 65/35% music to movies at loud but not reference levels. Room will be appropriately (ie mildly) treated. The AV equipment will be in the niche on the left side of the seating position.

I think that is all the details..... please let me know your thoughts and thank you.

Trevor
 

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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Since it's hard to determine just where they may sound the best in advance, I'd run cabling so I had complete flexibility in placement around the room. You may want four someday, too? :) I've used Audyssey with wireless subs (but built in wireless fwiw).
 
T

tparm

Audioholic
Since it's hard to determine just where they may sound the best in advance, I'd run cabling so I had complete flexibility in placement around the room. You may want four someday, too? :) I've used Audyssey with wireless subs (but built in wireless fwiw).
Thanks @lovinthehd I had issues with the SVS wireless Soundpath, Jack (at SVS who is great) determined it was delay caused by the wireless adapter. Once I hard wired it, perfection. I can run cable, but I really don't want to tear apart a brand new custom built bar to try multiple locations. Not sure what to do other than run enough cable up front to allow some latitude in final placement but be happy with them there. Or...maybe I can work with the builder (true custom and friend of mine) to get in there before the bar is built and take some REW measurements. Of course once everything is in the room it'll change, haha. Who knows.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Look into cable raceways for some ideas on hidingcable perhaps...
 
T

tparm

Audioholic
Yea, the issue isn't the cable. Its the one main set of cabinets for the bar. I'll need to modify the design to accommodate a sub; finish the end of a cabinet, place a finished piece to close the gap from the top of the sub to the counter top and also leave the cabinet base off so the sub sits directly on the floor. If I consider placing on in the back of the room at all. And if the bar is built that way, then a sub is going there no mater what as I can't have a open hole there, haha... Thinking I am answering my own question, not worth taking the chance and just placing them up front. I can try corners and 1/4-3/4 placement and move them close and out from the front wall.

All cables (sub and speaker) will be in the wall, run thought a face plate with only a center hole (like coax face plate without the coax connector) so there is no break in the signal.
 
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