Power Amps, Triggering and Load...

[bsodmike]

Hi all,

Basically to start off, this is what my HT looks like right now:

Basically I've got two power amps, Rotel RB1070 (1030w/chan) and 1080 (200w/chan). Currently I have the 1070 on the 12v trigger and that switches on accordingly. However, I have the 1080 on a Riello 1KVA (true sine) UPS and it works fine as long as it is always on, i.e. the 12v trigger is disabled. I found that if I were to enable the trigger on this and have it switch on, this causes the 1KVA to overload. The reason is that the 1KVA is rated for a load of 630 or 670W (around that) and the RB doc says the 1080 presents 550w load.

So my questions:

a) Is the lifespan of a PA reduced if it is on all the time, even with no input signal?

b) Does using the trigger increase it's life span (this is hte inverse of 1), but I guess the relays lifespan gets abused

The HT is working great and I can push the volume levels quite high and it doesn't overload, this is just a question of enabling the triggering on the 1080 and I might look into getting a 1.5KVA if needed.

Cheers, Mike

 

[jcPanny]

Rotel amps

I sounds like the power on condition (12V trigger) of your amp is drawing more power and causing the power strip to overload. Check the manual on the amp to determine if it goes into a "standby" mode when a signal is not present or if it is always on.

Leaving the amp on is an OK temporary solution, but you are potentially using extra power, generating heat, and shorting the life span of the amp. An adequate surge protector would probably be a good invenstment and allow you to use the 12V trigger.

 

[j_garcia]

You will shorten the life, but the life of an amp like those guys should be quite long, so I wouldn't worry too much about it short term. Long term, I'd look for a solution to the triggering issue. Personally, I'd just take the UPS out of the picture if possible.

What speakers?

 

[mike c]

doesn't those two power amps toast each other? (the 1080 below the 1070 could result in overheating)
wouldn't it be best if they were beside each other?

rotel amps go bloody hot without ventilation. (they're cool as long as there is space in between)

speakers are B&W?

 

[j_garcia]

doesn't those two power amps toast each other? (the 1080 below the 1070 could result in overheating)

rotel amps go bloody hot without ventilation. (they're cool as long as there is space in between)

And your 360 is right above that...it hasn't burst into flames yet?

 

[mike c]

so long as there's a few inches of space above the rotel amps, it can keep cool. it's because the rotel analogs have their heatsinks in the middle of the unit (not the ones in front - those are aesthetic unless its the multichannel amps)

when I felt my 1077 was super cool, I put the DVD player on top of it ... then tried to touch it afterwards, it was really hot. when I added a 2" spacer, it kept warm but not hot. my 1066 rotel amp however ran warm in the middle of the room even with nothing on top but the ceiling.

 

[bsodmike]

Thanks for the info guys. Yes, I am aware that the front heatsinks are for looks only. What I'll do is add a spacer between the 1080 and 1070. Btw. the 360 is sitting in the middle portion of the 1070, where it doesn't cover any slots. And yes, they haven't burst into flames...yet hehe.

Speakers are B&W and the reason I won't want to have them without the UPS is cause Sri Lankan power is the WORST. A surge protector alone won't be wise considering the invesment I've made. What I'll do is I'll make it a habit to switch off the 1080 from the front switch and leave the rest on standby (as the 1070 is on the trigger) until I find a solution later on. Now to see if I can get 2x squash balls, cut 'em in half and use 'em as a spacer!

Cheers, Mike

 

[mike c]

the 2" spacer might be applicable to me only ... mine is a class D amp and I intend to put ventilating fans.
yours is an analog amp and may produce more heat. (manual says 4")