Please, a soldering tip while it's on time

[killdozzer]

I'll skip right to the point. I need to desolder this and change it. I have a feeling when I get to no. 6 the first will cool down and solidify again. Do I need some special soldering iron or is this a non issue? Solder forms in droplets and tends to get removed entirely when it moves from a spot.

 

[highfigh]

I'll skip right to the point. I need to desolder this and change it. I have a feeling when I get to no. 6 the first will cool down and solidify again. Do I need some special soldering iron or is this a non issue? Solder forms in droplets and tends to get removed entirely when it moves from a spot.
View attachment 43735

Have you tried to clean the switch with contact cleaner?

I don't know if this is available to you, but it's what you need. The braided copper is used as a wick for solder joints that aren't heat sensitive, like wires, connectors and potentiometers and the pump is for faster removal of the solder.

For parts like transistors, resistors, diodes and capacitors, the heat transfers from the wires to the component quickly, so make sure you have some alligator clips that can be placed near the area to be heated, to act as a heat sink. If you can get a can of compressed air (commonly used for blowing dust out of computer keyboards and places where a larger blow gun won't fit) or Freeze Mist, it can be used to cool the parts even faster if you will be doing more of this kind of repair. Doesn't need to be this brand, just as long as it's made for the same purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length-Remover/dp/B07BB8DGMP/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=desoldering+tool&qid=1610895795&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOEVBRUUxV1U2UFk1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjIwODgzMkpHQkdLQTQwRDlYNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDI4NTYwMTk5QjQ3Mk1ENzVVNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Freeze Mist-

Amazon.com: MG Chemicals 403C Super Cold Spray, HFO-1234ZE, 235 Gram Aerosol, 8 oz Aerosol: Industrial & Scientific

Buy MG Chemicals 403C Super Cold Spray, HFO-1234ZE, 235 Gram Aerosol, 8 oz Aerosol: Starch & Anti-static Sprays - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[killdozzer]

Have you tried to clean the switch with contact cleaner?

I don't know if this is available to you, but it's what you need. The braided copper is used as a wick for solder joints that aren't heat sensitive, like wires, connectors and potentiometers and the pump is for faster removal of the solder.

For parts like transistors, resistors, diodes and capacitors, the heat transfers from the wires to the component quickly, so make sure you have some alligator clips that can be placed near the area to be heated, to act as a heat sink. If you can get a can of compressed air (commonly used for blowing dust out of computer keyboards and places where a larger blow gun won't fit) or Freeze Mist, it can be used to cool the parts even faster if you will be doing more of this kind of repair. Doesn't need to be this brand, just as long as it's made for the same purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length-Remover/dp/B07BB8DGMP/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=desoldering+tool&qid=1610895795&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOEVBRUUxV1U2UFk1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjIwODgzMkpHQkdLQTQwRDlYNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDI4NTYwMTk5QjQ3Mk1ENzVVNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Freeze Mist-

Amazon.com: MG Chemicals 403C Super Cold Spray, HFO-1234ZE, 235 Gram Aerosol, 8 oz Aerosol: Industrial & Scientific

Buy MG Chemicals 403C Super Cold Spray, HFO-1234ZE, 235 Gram Aerosol, 8 oz Aerosol: Starch & Anti-static Sprays - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Thank you high. I doubt it's that. It doesn't stay on after being pressed. Meaning it turns on the amp, no problem, but doesn't self-lock in that position. I think the route got worn.

No problem with contact. And it'll stay on as long as you hold it pressed, but once you release, in stead of staying locked in on position it goes back to off.

The reason I don't like this, other than thee pure fact it's broken. Is because when you want to turn it on, you have to do it 5-6 times before it stays in the on position. This means you keep powering on and off the circuitry and I don't want to make something give in.

 

[killdozzer]

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Just clean the lead one point at the time with this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

 

[TLS Guy]

I'll skip right to the point. I need to desolder this and change it. I have a feeling when I get to no. 6 the first will cool down and solidify again. Do I need some special soldering iron or is this a non issue? Solder forms in droplets and tends to get removed entirely when it moves from a spot.
View attachment 43735

I had a switch pretty much identical to that give trouble a few months back.

Anyhow the best assist is a soldering clamp like this.

It is best if you can support what you need to repair.

Now I use a desoldering iron, but you don't need one, it just makes it easier.

Get the solder joints hot, one at a time. When the solder flows, just pull the wires out with pliers. If the hole fill with solder, then use a little piece of solid copper wire, heat the solder in the hole and poke it though with the copper wire. Keep the wire moving to and fro until the solder cools. Then you will have a nice clean hole.

Now tin the wires you will solder back, not too much. Poke the wire through the hole, and then let the solder flow. Make sure you use enough heat that the solder flows freely otherwise you will get a dry joint. Make sure that you do not use excess solder and create a solder bridge between the joints.

It is not difficult.

 

[killdozzer]

I had a switch pretty much identical to that give trouble a few months back.

Anyhow the best assist is a soldering clamp like this.

It is best if you can support what you need to repair.

Now I use a desoldering iron, but you don't need one, it just makes it easier.

Get the solder joints hot, one at a time. When the solder flows, just pull the wires out with pliers. If the hole fill with solder, then use a little piece of solid copper wire, heat the solder in the hole and poke it though with the copper wire. Keep the wire moving to and fro until the solder cools. Then you will have a nice clean hole.

Now tin the wires you will solder back, not too much. Poke the wire through the hole, and then let the solder flow. Make sure you use enough heat that the solder flows freely otherwise you will get a dry joint. Make sure that you do not use excess solder and create a solder bridge between the joints.

It is not difficult.

That clamp looks useful!

 

[killdozzer]

Just clean the lead one point at the time with this tool:

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

Well, I'll have to gear up at least a bit. I don't have any of these.

 

[Alex2507]

Then you will have a nice clean hole.

LOL ...

 

[Ren Kitchener]

It looks like it won't be a 'plated through hole' PCB in which case, solder wick or a solder sucker as mentioned above will be perfect, and you can take your time. If it's a plated through hole PCB, it's a little more difficult - the pins need moving sometimes, at the same time as heating the joint, to break the pin away from the walls within the hole. I hope this helps.

 

[TLS Guy]

Well, I'll have to gear up at least a bit. I don't have any of these.

You don't need a desoldering gun or suction. My trick with the solid copper wire and keep it moving will do the trick just fine, to restore the hole open and free of solder.
You must understand though, having a 'third hand' of some type is important. It is crucial to keep what you are working on perfectly still.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

You don't need a desoldering gun or suction. My tick with the solid copper wire and keep it moving will do the trick just fine, to restore the hole open and free of solder.
You must understand though, having a 'third hand' of some type is important. It is crucial to keep what you are working on perfectly still.

For 3 years of my military service, I worked in the lab repairing laser and night vision equipment. Soldering boards and connectors were not something you'd do once a blue moon, but several times a day.
So sure, you could use copper braid of sorts, but it's much easier and cleaner results with a pump.
I do agree with Mark on having small vice or clips to hold your board to have free hands is pretty much a must to have. something like this gadget:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=sr_1_37?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+grips&qid=1610914348&sr=8-37