Outdoor sub?

[AaronChiles]

So I just but up some crappy insignia outdoor speakers i got from best buy for 20 dollars, don't judge...however I need bass in my life. I'm currently running the speakers off a samsung all in one dvd system through a speaker selector. Magically, this unit was only 219 dollars so the sub for it is not powered. So I want to run the left and right channels to the outdoor speakers, and then also use that <100 watts going to the sub for an outdoor sub. I know this could be very dangerous due to elements, but any suggestions or tips on this? I will seal the heck out of the box with probably bed liner or that krylon stone stuff everyone seems to love and some wood sealer. As for a driver, I have no thoughts at all...obviously not paper because that and moisture don't work well together. So has anyone done this DIY before? I've seen some outdoor subs for 150, but I think i'd live without than pay that much.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

Order the Dayton 12" sub, put it in a corner and make sure it's a few inches off the ground, and build a small 3' x 3' shingle roof over it. You have to protect it from rain, and I'm not all that certain it will survive the condensation and heat of summer.

The electronics in the amp could corrode, and the moisture could ruin the mdf box, or at minimum affect the sound. Your only other option is to build a box out of pvc, and silicone the heck out of the box to make it weather tight (acoustic suspension design), which means you'll need a larger amp - preferably placed inside the building. And after all that, it still may sound like dung due to placement issues and lack of walls.

BTW, why are you looking for bass outside?

 

[AaronChiles]

I want to relax in my pool all summer long before I start college in the fall...and I need bass.

 

[adwilk]

Use a bandpass box design

 

[AaronChiles]

Well the sub will be placed under neath the roof (sort of). The roof extends a good foot out like normal and i placed my speakers underneath the eaves. I'm placing the sub in a corner for best bass response (right?). I was thinking bandpass just like someone posted. I don't have to worry about amp corrosion because the amp is inside. I'm just running the wire to the sub, so it won't have it's own amp, it is powered with the sub output (powered) from a reciever inside. Tell me if this placement is good?

Thanks
Aaron

 

[Cygnus]

I'm just running the wire to the sub, so it won't have it's own amp, it is powered with the sub output (powered) from a reciever inside

This wont work. Your sub still needs an amplifier. Assuming the sub is passive and not active, you need a amp to power the sub. Buy a good amp (i dont know any good ones..or any at all for that matter...). Hook the amp to the receiver and then to the sub

 

[AaronChiles]

There is some communication error between us. The sub will work with my current setup. The sub I have hooked up indoors is not a powered sub (does not have an amplifier built-in) but is powered by an output just like the speakers on the amplifier except for a crossover. It's it's an 800watt 5.1 system, so you do the math to figure out whatever wattage is going to the sub. Will this amount of power be able to make that Dayton 12" sound good? Am I blind or crazy because I can't seem to find Dayton Audio components on PE anymore?

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

There is some communication error between us. The sub will work with my current setup. The sub I have hooked up indoors is not a powered sub (does not have an amplifier built-in) but is powered by an output just like the speakers on the amplifier except for a crossover. It's it's an 800watt 5.1 system, so you do the math to figure out whatever wattage is going to the sub. Will this amount of power be able to make that Dayton 12" sound good? Am I blind or crazy because I can't seem to find Dayton Audio components on PE anymore?

Model 300-635
DAYTON SUB-120 150 WATT POWERED SUBWOOFER The Dayton Audio SUB-120 is the perfect subwoofer for medium to large home theaters or listening rooms. A 150 watt amp, long-throw front firing 12" driver, and dual rear ports produce impressively deep and powerful bass.

That's a powered sub that needs an rca cable, not speaker wires.

What model/mfg is your unit that ouputs 800 watts? Is this a HTIB?

 

[AaronChiles]

Yeah, it's a little Samsung DVD-Receiver all in one. The output is some weird connector that samsung used for ease, but it's a simple positive/negative speaker wire. The model number it HT-P38, but my plan is to run it in stereo and have a speaker selection box for the Left/Right/LFE channels and then just be able to switch them from Indoors to Outdoors and vice versa. Wiring I already have figured out, I just need recomendations on a driver and possible design tips.

 

[HookedOnSound]

The neighbours are really going to like you!

 

[annunaki]

First off, that Samsung is not going to be powerful enough to run a sub woofer outdoors. Divide the power by the amount of channels, then Divide by 4 as it is rated at highly inflated peak power. That will give you realistic power output to the sub from your all-in-one. I calculate about 30 watts a channel (being generous) if it is a 5.1 system.

Second, I would do a ported sytem. You are going to want to do a larger type enclosure to ensure you can tune pretty low. All of the MDF panels (if that is what you use) NEED to be coated in paint or some type of substance. You could also use a high grade, void free, marine plywood. You will also NEED to put a screen over any ports to prevent any critters/insects from making a home/hive in there. The woofer you use should, at minimum, have a poly cone an rubber surround capable of high temperature extremes. The driver could also be a Marine subwoofer. JL audio has an excellent driver, though it is designed for infinite baffle use. Those are just some basics that need to be addressed.

 

[adwilk]

I think we are all getting a little too complicated... heres the deal... if you just want to use the power from your receiver, dont mess with even putting one outdoors... I too, came up with about 30 watts per channel and that certainly is not enough for a band pass and really wont make that 12" dayton move. If your against some other type of amplifier, dont bother. It takes a lot of power to make good noise outdoors. If you decide you want to step up and get an amp of some kind, it seems to me that a down-firing sub would stay out of most the elements. A simple bandpass design would great too, if you had the power. I would just go a buy a single 12" bandpass box designed for a car, screen over the port holes and rip the carpet off and use a deck sealer or something. Remember to caulk the joint between the glass and wood.

One question, does your receiver have a low level sub output???

 

[annunaki]

The problem with doing a bandpass enclosure, specifically one designed for the car, is that it will have anemic low frequency output. I.e. output below 45Hz. Car enclosures are designed to use a vehicle's transfer function to it's advantage. Being in an open space, one must deal with the woofer/enclosure's anechoic response. Therefore a low tuned ported enclosure with fairly linear frequency response becomes the best choice.

 

[adwilk]

WEll i certainly agree, but in this case where it sounds like he's looking for the simplest most cost effective solution.... i doubt SQ is really an issue seeing as how... well... the "no amp" thing...