.....other than SVS???

A

AdrianMills

Full Audioholic
I did not realize it was possible to "work" with 2 Floorstanders and also a CC speaker at the same time. If I can get a three channel amp - how would I get the all the speakers to work optimally? Am I back into the realm of an A/V Receiver or A/V Pre/Pro to accomplish this? I'm serious. If you can tell me how to technically pull this off and recommend the right stuff - then I will propose it to Liz. Am I 100% right in stating that the CC is not to be put inside furnirure. Better to keep CC on an open shelf/stand setup acoustically?
As Jostenmeat said, you'll need the pre + amp or receiver to do the 3 channel thing. Really, there are a lot of very high quality integrated AV amps (basically a receiver without the radio like the Denon AVC-A1HD) and receivers out there these days which have a huge amount of functionality and power for relatively little money compared to equivalent functionality you’d get with separates. And yes, you're not going for surrounds yet but wouldn't it be nice to have that option if you want to go that way later?

There are centers out there which have been designed to be included in a cabinet and others that really don't do so well when enclosed. How you do this is very dependant on how you are going to lay things out with your furniture - I recently got rig of my center AV rack which housed my equipment and had the TV on a stand placed on top; now I have my TV on the wall, a Hifi rack with the electronics to the side and my center on a dedicated center stand under the TV. You would need a fairly special AV rack to be able to accommodate a HTM3S anyway as it's pretty large!



We chose the 46" size because we wanted to save money for the audio portion and is a 50" really necessary if we are going to be sitting 8' to 9' away from screen.
Not entirely necessary as such but desirable :D If you don't get a 50" I'll bet you'll regret it later.

The Pioneer 9G KURO is my dream TV - but I have to make compromises. I figure a properly calibrated Panasonic Z800U will give us an above average to excellent viewing experience. I did not think of purchasing a non-9G KURO to save money when the 9G's are released.
Pannys really can't be beaten for price/performance but Kuros are without a doubt a step above. I guess it's up to everyone to determine if that extra level of performance is worth the substantial increase in cost - I'm a little out touch with the cost of TVs in the states but here in Norway Pios cost 2x as much as Panny screens.

If you can get the 50" 8G Kuro at discounted prices when the 9G arrives you really should consider snapping one up.

fired up said:
By a high end CD player I'm not talking exotica. Just something that is a cut above the rest. Thanks AdrianMills for the Denon recommendation! I was also looking at the Marantz 7001 or 8001 players.
I have the older Denon 3910, it's built like a tank and it performs incredibly on CD/SACD and DVDs. It will be in my rack as a SD DVD player and CD/SACD player until it dies. I highly recommend these players.

Don’t the Marantz players use some shared technology with Denon as they are owned by the same parent company?
 
A

AdrianMills

Full Audioholic
Love the B&W's, AdrianMills.
:) Thanks. I've had the pair of 804S for almost 2 years now and they still manage to impress me. I wasn't so impressed with the HTM7 center that I originally bought with them though and switched to the HTM3S last year; the difference was very noticeable not only with the voice matching between the 3 LR and C but also with the increased clarity of speech on movies.
 
E

EJ1

Audioholic Chief
:) Thanks. I've had the pair of 804S for almost 2 years now and they still manage to impress me. I wasn't so impressed with the HTM7 center that I originally bought with them though and switched to the HTM3S last year; the difference was very noticeable not only with the voice matching between the 3 LR and C but also with the increased clarity of speech on movies.
I've often wondered if the HTM61 would sound better than the HTM7, as I can't really afford anything above the 7 right now.
 
A

AdrianMills

Full Audioholic
[
I've often wondered if the HTM61 would sound better than the HTM7, as I can't really afford anything above the 7 right now.
I haven't heard the HTM61 but just going by the drivers I would say it probably does sound better in the midrange at the very least; the HTM7 falls flat on its face when there's a lot going on and then vocals become muddy and indistinct. At least that's my impression; I see that you have it - what's your opinion?
 
fired up

fired up

Audioholic
AdrianMills:

When I auditioned B&W speakers I was shown a boxy pair that was supposed to be the newest line. There is no way they looked liked yours. I love the way yours look and especially the tweeter? on top. Excellent. This thread has taken on a life of it's own and I cannot remember what you use as a subwoofer. Your system has an elegant visually appealing look that I know my wife would not hesitate about adding it to our Living Room. Please refresh my memory and list the specific components. I don't have it in me right now to re-re-re-re-read the entire thread. They are the best looking B&W's I have ever seen. How do they handle piano and classical music? See - one picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks for the huge THUMBS UP for AUDIOGON. I did not know there was a VIDEOGON as well.

Thanks for the TV seating distance measurement chart thing. If I understand it correctly I should be purchasing a 60" TV for optimum viewing. A 50" would be the next best choice. My original 46" pick did not fair so well.

My kids and I have all of next week free from school and plan on hitting as many dealers as we can.

If I am understanding the majority here - I should wait until the newer models ship on TV and buy last years top pick - Pioneer Elite KURO. 46" is too small for the room and viewing distances. The number one sub for music first and movies second in a smaller sized footprint would be the JL Audio Fathom f112 or if I can swing it f113. I also need to audition the Paradigm Servo sub and Velodyne DD series. Nobody but me seems to show much interest in the Sunfire subs which are great for both music and movies. The Def Tech Towers with powered subs solution was a bad alternative because of positioning problems and the sub is not a TRUE sub in the loudspeaker.

The pressure is on me to pick either a 5 channel class D Amp and PRE/PRO or an A/V Receiver that does not run hot (ONKYO). The decision is likewise mine to find the Denon CD player Adrian Mills recommended or buy a comparable Marantz or similar SACD/CD player of high quality.

Likewise, I need to wait until Summer 2008 for the Profile 2 Blu Ray player to hit the market. Is it Pioneer or Panasonic? I'm confused and don't remember.
Further - the newer Pioneer 9G PLASMA comes out in Summer also and I have to wait if I want the very best and blow my budget to hell.

Cables and Interconnects - BlueJeanCables! Good quality at a realistic price point.

Finally, the 46" TV idea is pretty much not worth spending the money on based on the test I took for viewing distance.

Now here is one for you do-it-yourself- handy-with -tools types: The wall where TV has to be mounted is a firewall. That means it is Plaster over Cinderblock. I don't have a clue when it comes to actually installing the TV on the wall (assuming I go with a system like AdrianMills has). Did B&W sell you the CC stand? What kind is it if you had to buy it separately.

This is a rambling kind of stream of thought post - SORRY! I'm just wondering how I am going to make this all happen. Best to wait for summertime and take advantage of discounts?

Any magazines review those speakers Adrian? They really are sleek looking!

Thanks to everyone!!!! - and I mean everyone who is helping me out!!!

Regards - Your Friend,

Eddie

Oh, the budget is now at $25K because my wife does not want me to sell any of my guitars to raise additional cash.
 
fired up

fired up

Audioholic
To put this as inoffensive as possible. Will I get ripped off If I hire a Custom Installer to come in and do everything and supply everything? Or, is htis whole system setup something I can do with my Condo's super and helper, a few of my friends and an electrician? Know what I mean? Let a qualified CEDIA tech come in and take room measurements and audio readings and then design a system and then pay him for his services, products, and time? Or SCREW IT and just rely on you guys and delear visits to pick the equipment and let my buddies help with the install - even though they know nothing about EQ'ing a room for System and sub. Neither do I for that matter. One Custom installer came in at a price of $30K back when my budget was half that.

Other than TV calibration this is something I can do on my own? Correct?
If I have to I could hire someone after the fact to do the AUDDYSSEY Multi-EQ software room calibration. Yes - I know I spelled that way wrong.

The money and dream are going right to my head and panic is setting in. I want to avoid that crap feeling and make this as FUN and pleasurable as possible. Trust me, I will never ever be given free reign like this in my lifetime - this is my finest hour to put together a dream for the Family Room.

Your Grateful Friend,

Eddie
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
If I am understanding the majority here - I should wait until the newer models ship on TV and buy last years top pick - Pioneer Elite KURO. 46" is too small for the room and viewing distances. The number one sub for music first and movies second in a smaller sized footprint would be the JL Audio Fathom f112 or if I can swing it f113. I also need to audition the Paradigm Servo sub and Velodyne DD series. Nobody but me seems to show much interest in the Sunfire subs which are great for both music and movies. The Def Tech Towers with powered subs solution was a bad alternative because of positioning problems and the sub is not a TRUE sub in the loudspeaker.
Actually, InTheIndustry says great things about Sunfire subs. And he sells both JL and Sunfire. I would still presume that he would say the JLs are better, but perhaps not as value rich.

The pressure is on me to pick either a 5 channel class D Amp and PRE/PRO or an A/V Receiver that does not run hot (ONKYO). The decision is likewise mine to find the Denon CD player Adrian Mills recommended or buy a comparable Marantz or similar SACD/CD player of high quality.
No pressure Eddie. No pressure, breeeeaaaatttheeee. You don't HAVE to have D class. And you definitely do not need 5 channels (no surrounds?). There are indeed 3-ch amps made, or monoblocks as well. Outlaw's are very affordable, but really the sky is the limit.

Cables and Interconnects - BlueJeanCables! Good quality at a realistic price point.
Even more respected than Monoprice, but the latter has served me very well. Im using a 35 ft HDMI cable from them, no problems.

(assuming I go with a system like AdrianMills has). Did B&W sell you the CC stand? What kind is it if you had to buy it separately.
B&W makes a custom stand for that speaker.

This is a rambling kind of stream of thought post - SORRY! I'm just wondering how I am going to make this all happen. Best to wait for summertime and take advantage of discounts?
If now considering BW, the Diamond series is what its all about. I really enjoyed my auditions of Adrian's 804s, but at your budget you can go with the big D. IIRC, WmAx says that they are the most linear speakers of the modern speakers. Of course, it doesn't mean you'll like them in your own room. While you may not fit this into budget as new, I think you might pull it off with new revised budget, with the reconsideration of Audiogon.

Any magazines review those speakers Adrian? They really are sleek looking!
Don't know, but I agree they are nice looking. I even remember my "knuckle rap test" on them and they were pretty impressive. Though I remember that WmAx says that it still suffers from resonance (but Im sure 99% of the speakers out there do). FWIW, some of my favorite things about them were firstly the imaging. Setup right, you swear there's a center channel when there isn't. However, if you want to move all around, you're still going to want a center for HT. I personally thought the bass and mid-bass was very detailed, but others thought it was lacking. I didn't think so. The only con that I think I remember is the dryness of the upper registers. I believe this is due to their particular coloration. However, once you go up to Diamonds, you're in another ballpark.

Thanks to everyone!!!! - and I mean everyone who is helping me out

Regards - Your Friend,

Eddie
and cheers to you friend.

Ok, I HAVE TO RUN, late to a triple-bday party!
ps almost forgot. I would forgo pro install (outside of uber expensive Rives Level 3 or something). Electrician is the right idea. I mean... just for connecting stuff and calibrating, don't do it. If your willing to rebuild a room, then its different. You can even hire Dennis Erskine for like 2-3k for him to make you DIY blueprints replete w/ HVAC etc. I don't think this is what you're thinking.... ;)
 
A

AdrianMills

Full Audioholic
Eddie, dude, take a breath. :D Don't rush this, take your time deciding on what you want and enjoy the moment. The last thing you'll want is to have buyers remorse by rushing things. I think I looked for at least 6 months before I bought most of my setup. :)

AdrianMills:

When I auditioned B&W speakers I was shown a boxy pair that was supposed to be the newest line. There is no way they looked liked yours. I love the way yours look and especially the tweeter? on top. Excellent.
There are few new additions to the B&W lines that are "boxy" including the CM series that can be seen here and the newer 600 series models that can be seen here. At your budget I guess you were demoed the CM series?

As you’ve probably gathered by now mine are the 804S; the 800 series is B&Ws top of the line series (besides their stupidly expensive special one off speakers like the Snail and new signature speakers). And yes, that’s the tweeter on top; that placement and tweeter case design are supposed to prevent certain unwanted audio phenomena although how audible those unwanted artifacts are in reality on other speakers is debatable I think. But yes, you certainly pay for the design of the curved cabinets; knuckle rapping them returns the sound of a solid block of wood and that still impresses me.

IMO The 804S is the best cost/performance compromise of all the 800 series models. The 805S, although nice sounding, is crippled without an FST driver and the 803S and 803D really don’t justify the extra cost over the 804 particularly if you have a sub. The 802D is the next step in performance that may be worth the money to some; their look alone is a work of art to a lot of people and worth the cost. They are regarded by some professional audio reviewers to be at the pinnacle of current affordable speaker technology. But there are other people that think they are ugly and too expensive; personally I’m glad that they’re too big to fit in my living room or I’d have to empty my bank account (they cost 20K US$ here – bizarre considering the cabinets are made a relatively short way from where I live). :D

But the question is, did you like the sound of the B&W speakers you auditioned?

This thread has taken on a life of it's own and I cannot remember what you use as a subwoofer. Your system has an elegant visually appealing look that I know my wife would not hesitate about adding it to our Living Room. Please refresh my memory and list the specific components.
- The front L&R: B&W 804S

- The center: B&W HTM3S on a B&W FS-HTM stand (and yes, the stand was stupidly expensive :eek: )
- My surrounds are cheap wall mounted JM lab something or other speakers that I bought off a friend. They were meant to be a short term solution until I bought some B&W SCM-1 or something but I actually think they are quite nice sounding so I may decide to keep them.

- My current sub is an SVS PB13 Ultra in gloss black. The sub in the picture which is the large cherry coloured box behind the left speaker is a PB12 Plus/2. Both subs are exceptional but the Ultra wins out in bass quality and is comparable to the JL Audio Fathom subs although it’s much larger.

- The TV is a Pio 508XD – I can’t remember if that’s the same model number in the US. The TV is on a multi swivel wall mount that I can’t remember the name of but I can look it up if you really want.

- My HiFi rack is from Stands Unique in the UK http://www.standsunique.com/ ; not cheap by a long way and probably overpriced but it was the only stand I could find that fitted my exact requirements at the time.

- Denon 3910 DVD player

- Denon 4306 Receiver; and I can assure you that it’s more than powerful enough to drive the 804S no matter what anyone else will tell you.

- SMS-1 subwoofer management system (how can people live without one of these?)

- A Belcanto Ref 1000 mono amp; this uses a B&O D-class amp module that’s capable of putting out 1000W into 4ohms. I use it to drive my HTM3S; when I hooked up the HTM3S to the 4306 receiver I noticed it started to run very hot when playing multi-channel music so I bought the external amp to relieve the receiver of the load. It may have been fine on the receiver but hey, hardware is nice to have so I used “my need” as an excuse to spend some money. :D I did consider buying a few more for the L and R speakers and maybe a dual mono for the surrounds but they are very expensive here and they really aren’t necessary.

- I have a PS3 to use as a BluRay player which you can’t see; it’s standing on the floor on the other side of the rack.

- The other black box is a satellite decoder.

- I use a laptop with an HDMI output as a “media center” when I want to play downloaded content.

My next purchase will be a new decoder with integrated PVR; yeah, I know, how could I not have a PVR already? :D

All in all a fairly minimalistic setup compared to a lot of people but that is more by design than from the lack of resources.

I don't have it in me right now to re-re-re-re-read the entire thread. They are the best looking B&W's I have ever seen. How do they handle piano and classical music? See - one picture is worth a thousand words.
I think you’ll find that the 800 series are amazing with classical and piano. :) Take some of your favourite CDs with you when you go to demo.

If I am understanding the majority here - I should wait until the newer models ship on TV and buy last years top pick - Pioneer Elite KURO.
You’ll get the best bang for the buck by waiting until the new models are about to ship and then buying an older model – assuming you can get hold of them. There’s a risk that the stock will be sold out. Pios will usually not drop as much as other plasma manufacturers though.

The number one sub for music first and movies second in a smaller sized footprint would be the JL Audio Fathom f112 or if I can swing it f113. I also need to audition the Paradigm Servo sub and Velodyne DD series. Nobody but me seems to show much interest in the Sunfire subs which are great for both music and movies.
You can’t really go wrong with JL Audio and Velodyne DD series subs (built in SMS-1 with the DD) but they come at a cost. I’ve heard good things about the others you mention but I have no direct experience with them.

The pressure is on me to pick either a 5 channel class D Amp and PRE/PRO or an A/V Receiver that does not run hot (ONKYO). The decision is likewise mine to find the Denon CD player Adrian Mills recommended or buy a comparable Marantz or similar SACD/CD player of high quality.
It’s very unlikely that you will need an external amp if you buy a good receiver. Even the higher end 802D speakers are relatively easy to drive these days and can be run off a good quality receiver (I would think THX Ultra 2 certified though just in case :D ) and this is especially the case when using bass management and 60 – 80hz cut offs.
Onkyo does run hot compared to many others.


Cables and Interconnects - BlueJeanCables! Good quality at a realistic price point.
They have good quality interconnects and I recommend them – their HDMI cables are built to last :D


Now here is one for you do-it-yourself- handy-with -tools types: The wall where TV has to be mounted is a firewall. That means it is Plaster over Cinderblock. I don't have a clue when it comes to actually installing the TV on the wall (assuming I go with a system like AdrianMills has). Did B&W sell you the CC stand? What kind is it if you had to buy it separately.

This is a rambling kind of stream of thought post - SORRY! I'm just wondering how I am going to make this all happen. Best to wait for summertime and take advantage of discounts?

Any magazines review those speakers Adrian? They really are sleek looking!

Thanks to everyone!!!! - and I mean everyone who is helping me out!!!

Regards - Your Friend,

Eddie
Installing a plasma on a solid wall like that is easy; it’s a little more nerve racking on a stud wall I can tell you. :D Cable routing becomes a problem though and of course how difficult it is depends on where everything is located relative to the TV. The easiest is to use unobtrusive cable ducting that can be painted; take a look at http://cableorganizer.com/ for some ideas.
Of course, I guess you can always bring in a professional to do the job (they could build a false wall to hang your plasma on and route the cables behind) but that will cost some money that could be spent on equipment.

There are bunch of reviews out there of the 800 series but here’s one for you of the 804S and the HTM3S http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_3/b&w-804s-htm3s-speakers-8-2005-part-1.html . But you really need to listen to them yourself before laying out this kind of cash. I’ve heard on various forums that in the US B&W dealers tend to give a discount when pushed.

There are a bunch of forums including AH where people proudly display their system so you should spend some time browsing them to get some ideas.

Okay, I’m out of steam. I hope this helped.
 
fired up

fired up

Audioholic
AdrianMills: Thank you for answering all of my questions and for supplying additional links to look at. That was a long response and I appreciate it. I'm packing up a small CASELOGIC CD/DVD travel case with favorite music and movies to start my auditioning tomorrow. The PSB Synchrony ONE just received a Stereophile Class A rating and is only $4500 per pair. I found a dealer 10 miles away who has them set up for demo. The largest B&W dealer in my area went out of business. I'll have to travel a bit longer now for an audition. Thanks again for the concise reply to my random questions!!!

EJ1: I read your PM and am thinking about it. I will talk to you after this weeks auditions are over and let everyone know all the products I demoed - loudspeakers, subs, and electronics. I am covering 3 states starting at 8am Monday - NY/NJ/CT - and am bound to find some unexpected surprises.

Are the JL Audio Fathom subs sold internet direct or through dealerships? Same question for Velodyne, REL, and Sunfire. I know SVS is ID.

Thanks - NOW I'M COOKING WITH GAS - Gear Acquisition Syndrome!!!:)

Cheers!

Eddie
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
Are the JL Audio Fathom subs sold internet direct or through dealerships? Same question for Velodyne, REL, and Sunfire. I know SVS is ID.
they're b&m, only dealerships sell JL Audio home stuff. (none online)
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
I'm giving you 5 days to actually PICK OUT gear, then I will stalk you and call you a troll.

SheepStar
 
tn001d

tn001d

Senior Audioholic
mike c,


Room is a Living Room. 20' L x 14' W with 8' ceilings.

Eddie

For a room that size, most of the subs that people are talking about are complete overkill, epecially the one you originally purchased - the ultra 13.

I have 2 hometheaters in my house. And i have a room about the size of yours maybe a little smaller and my Paradigm PS1000 is very sufficent with both music and movies. I am using an older version sub (v2?) which has a smaller amplifier than the newer version. A Paradigm PS1200 would be a safe bet and isnt as big as SVS subs.

In my other room, which is much larger than yours i am using a SVS PB10-ISD sub, which produces ridiculous amounts of base with the level at only half.
 
tn001d

tn001d

Senior Audioholic
I would divert extra money to display and source equipment. Maybe a fancy power conditioner :), good cables and connectors, and media.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Step 1: If maximum monpolar sound quality is desired, but budget is an issue(usually always is in the real world), buy used speakers. The B&W 801 Matrix Series II/III from the late 80's almost matches the modern version in transparency(neutral on and off axis response over all, measurably inert cabinet system). It is substantially devalued at this point, and as a result, you can often buy a mint condition pair for about $2000-$2500 on eBay. You simply can not/will not get a full range pre-made speaker with it's ability, anywhere near it's quality, new, for even twice that amount. You will have to spend about $12,000 minimum for a commercial monopolar speaker of comparable quality, new. And don't misunderstand; I don't mean that is the quality of the average $12,000 speaker; most speakers in that price range are substantially inferior. I mean, if you pick the best quality/engineered speaker in that price range, it will be a match for it.

Step 2: Purchase a Behringer DCX2496 DSP loudspeaker management unit. Use this unit to precisely adjust tonal response and bass response to your preference(s). A feat only truly effective on extremely linear, inert cabinet based speaker systems such as the suggested speaker above.

-Chris
 
Last edited:
fired up

fired up

Audioholic
WmAx: I have registered at AudiogoN and contacted three people with speakers I would like to own. One pair was already sold, the other pair was in "a deal" with another buyer and the owner of the third pair changed his mind and decided to keep his speakers after hearing them through a new amp. I visit AudiogoN more than any other site now - looking for deals. Please note that I have not searched for the B&W 801 Matrix Series II/III loudspeakers. At over 20 years old - what kind of speaker/driver refurbishment would have to be done to make them sound like they did - well, -20 years ago? I'm being serious - not a wiseguy. Just want to know what I can expect if I purchase older speakers in terms of upkeep.

tnoo1d: I already purchased the $449 APC Home Theater Power Conditioner with Voltage Regulator for the soon to be arriving in dribs and drabs A/V Equipment. It was recommended by quite a majority of people as was Tripp-Lite and at the higher end PANAMAX. I got a deal on the APC and paid $380 for it. You are absolutely correct about the room size vs. subwoofer size ratio. I am going to follow the advice on this thread and know which smaller sized subs to audition. The Living Room has all new furniture purchased after the fire - the Stressless Seating is the most comfortable couches, loveseats, and recliner HT chairs I have ever had the pleasure of sitting on. That was about $10K worth of seating. Money well spent.

mike c: Thanks for setting me straight on sub purchasing via ID and B&M.

sheep: You know the truth of my story with the fire, argumentative wife, my injuries sustained fighting fire, and that I am disabled. A great many factors just came into play all at once and I did my best to deal with it. Read the post above and see what I spent on new furnishings. Add to that the cost of having the place professionally cleaned by fire and smoke specialists so that the rest of the house did not stink. Add to that the cost of replacing carpeting, bookcase, piano, window treatments, lamps, etc and I have spent close to $20K already before even buying any A/V equipment. Further REMEMBER I did purchase the Acoustic Zen Adagio, Adagio Jr, surrounds and CC speakers along with the astronomically expensive cable. I backed out of the deal after receiving close to 20 PM's telling me I was pissing my money away on the cables and to try and get out of deal. Luckily, I was able to cancel transaction. Before you tag me a troll - give me more than 5 days. Currently the contractors are in the Family Room as I type tearing down damaged drywall, patching, sanding, etc. They plan on having everything ready for painting next week. I do not want any expensive gear in the place yet until the room is finished. Worried about dust from sanding, etc. Finally, a large portion of the equipment is not scheduled for release until May through Sept. 2008 and I have to be patient and wait it out. Count the purchases I have made already and the Contractors fees as part of the HT and that should bar me from the moniker of troll.

In closing, I love you guys!!! This is the best forum and I have learned a great deal by becoming a member of the community. Time to get going - I have 2 dealerships to visit today. One is a custom installer that agreed to let me hear the new PSB Synchrony One loudspeakers that just got a Class A Stereophile rating and cost only $4500 per pair. He usually does not allow demo's in his place as he is a custom installer but is making an exception for me because of a mutual friend.

ALL MY BEST,

Eddie "the fugly" Troll
 
A

AdrianMills

Full Audioholic
Eddie,

most people will eventually want more sub power so buy one with more output than you'll think you'll want.

Also, you buy subs like the Velo DD, the F113 and Ultra13 more for the quality of the bass than the quantity, although that certainly helps too. :D
 
Shadow_Ferret

Shadow_Ferret

Audioholic Chief
I'm giving you 5 days to actually PICK OUT gear, then I will stalk you and call you a troll.

SheepStar
Whew! Glad you didn't put that deadline on me. It's taken me 3.3 years since my join date to pick out gear and make purchases. :D
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top