Other People's Junk

[Alex2507]

Pic's are coming soon, Doug.

Misery loves company and soon enough I'm sure to be hating it. Before I'm able to get pic's, let me ask about tips for prepping steel for paint. I thought about leaving it be and going for a steam punk look with maybe poly urethane on it. But I am going to put latex paint and primer on it. I need to know what to wipe the steel with for the final cleaning before primer ... denatured alcohol. That should work, right?

Anyway, this ought to be fun for a while before like everything else, it becomes obvious that it's just more work. I do this because I really like the things after they're done. Some of the wood is exotic (to me) and I install/assemble things so they come off/apart with either a screw driver or lacking that, a sledge hammer.

I already got the camera by the boots: ready to go. Oh, and aside from the steel, there's a small stack of trim I'm going to shoot latex on with an HVLP gun. I know that's wrong but all are welcome to remind me of that yet again. This not listening to anybody thing takes practice. The joy here is sanding and wiping down the material. The deal is that I have to clear the wood trim off the saw horses they now occupy.

The steel prep is a diversion at this point but it is also the thing I am most excited about. I want to spend 2 weeks doing this ... okay fine, 4 but no more than that.

About the only thing I have to buy is a respirator. Paint always makes me a little green around the gills. I've gotta shoot urethane too. That's gonna be a first. Maybe I wouldn't hate finish so much if I was better at it. Anyway, ... here goes

 

[slipperybidness]

@MrBoat
is your expert, but you didn't provide much detail at all here!

 

[highfigh]

Pic's are coming soon, Doug.

Misery loves company and soon enough I'm sure to be hating it. Before I'm able to get pic's, let me ask about tips for prepping steel for paint. I thought about leaving it be and going for a steam punk look with maybe poly urethane on it. But I am going to put latex paint and primer on it. I need to know what to wipe the steel with for the final cleaning before primer ... denatured alcohol. That should work, right?

I already got the camera by the boots: ready to go. Oh, and aside from the steel, there's a small stack of trim I'm going to shoot latex on with an HVLP gun. I know that's wrong but all are welcome to remind me of that yet again. This not listening to anybody thing takes practice. The joy here is sanding and wiping down the material. The deal is that I have to clear the wood trim off the saw horses they now occupy.

The steel prep is a diversion at this point but it is also the thing I am most excited about. I want to spend 2 weeks doing this ... okay fine, 4 but no more than that.

About the only thing I have to buy is a respirator. Paint always makes me a little green around the gills. I've gotta shoot urethane too. That's gonna be a first. Maybe I wouldn't hate finish so much if I was better at it. Anyway, ... here goes

Not sure I would use Latex, but the HVLP is a good way to shoot it.

 

[MrBoat]

Steel, if free of rust, one would either use acetone, or the paint reducer they are using to pre-clean it. In the case of oil based paint, that would be mineral spirits. Latex on raw steel? That's a good way to start rust before even starting. Unless it's some professional coating from say, the auto industry, "I" don't really know of water based finishes for steel. Typically, at least the primer would be oil based and then sealed for a water based top coat. For most home use, Rustoleum has always been a pretty reliable finish for steel. Better yet is a zinc based primer with an oil based enamel (Rustoleum) top coat.

For metal that has rust that can't be completely removed, a polymeric rust converter perhaps or, "POR 15."

 

[Alex2507]

The steel with a 1 gallon paint can. It's gonna be a shelf. 16x12 outside dimension.



Late for PT. Gotsta run.

 

[everettT]

PT and metal work? Working hard to make us look real lazy.

 

[Alex2507]

PT and metal work? Working hard to make us look real lazy.

I'm not sure where the distinction lies but that is steel, as in Man of ... . I got the crown molding and base board sanded up for spray. The crown only had primer and that should come out mint. The base already had latex on it and the boards stuck to each other so it's gonna look a little rougher but that's fine. I want the crown to sing.

 

[TLS Guy]

I would not use a water based paint on steel, use oil.

Once I get the surface back to smooth shiny metal. I give it a wipe with Prep-All. I have used that product for 20 years or more. It is fast and gets off all residual grease.

I suspect you will use spray cans, but if you use a compressor driven sprayer then water filters are a must. Use at least two in line.

 

[Drunkpenguin]

Am I the only one here that doesnt know what your building?

 

[Alex2507]

Am I the only one here that doesnt know what your building?

No, it's unanimous!

I'm getting some crown ready for our living room and making a shelf to hold my turn table.

 

[STRONGBADF1]

Pic's are coming soon, Doug.

Misery loves company and soon enough I'm sure to be hating it. Before I'm able to get pic's, let me ask about tips for prepping steel for paint. I thought about leaving it be and going for a steam punk look with maybe poly urethane on it. But I am going to put latex paint and primer on it. I need to know what to wipe the steel with for the final cleaning before primer ... denatured alcohol. That should work, right?

Anyway, this ought to be fun for a while before like everything else, it becomes obvious that it's just more work. I do this because I really like the things after they're done. Some of the wood is exotic (to me) and I install/assemble things so they come off/apart with either a screw driver or lacking that, a sledge hammer.

I already got the camera by the boots: ready to go. Oh, and aside from the steel, there's a small stack of trim I'm going to shoot latex on with an HVLP gun. I know that's wrong but all are welcome to remind me of that yet again. This not listening to anybody thing takes practice. The joy here is sanding and wiping down the material. The deal is that I have to clear the wood trim off the saw horses they now occupy.

The steel prep is a diversion at this point but it is also the thing I am most excited about. I want to spend 2 weeks doing this ... okay fine, 4 but no more than that.

About the only thing I have to buy is a respirator. Paint always makes me a little green around the gills. I've gotta shoot urethane too. That's gonna be a first. Maybe I wouldn't hate finish so much if I was better at it. Anyway, ... here goes

Is the reason that you are using latex paint is that you already have it?

 

[Alex2507]

Is the reason that you are using latex paint is that you already have it?

I'm trying to burn up the same gallon I used on my subs. I considered using acrylic enamel because as you point out, I already have it. It's grey. They put latex paint on metal doors but they're galvanized or something.

if you use a compressor driven sprayer

It's a cheapo HVLP sprayer that actually did a decent job on my subs shooting latex. It has its own compressor/hose/gun set up: no air dryers or filters. Any thought to putting acrylic enamel on that steel? How about an alcohol based primer? You guessed it, I already have it. It's pictured inside the steel.

Steel, if free of rust, one would either use acetone, or the paint reducer they are using to pre-clean it. In the case of oil based paint, that would be mineral spirits. Latex on raw steel? That's a good way to start rust before even starting. Unless it's some professional coating from say, the auto industry, "I" don't really know of water based finishes for steel. Typically, at least the primer would be oil based and then sealed for a water based top coat. For most home use, Rustoleum has always been a pretty reliable finish for steel. Better yet is a zinc based primer with an oil based enamel (Rustoleum) top coat.

For metal that has rust that can't be completely removed, a polymeric rust converter perhaps or, "POR 15."

That rust converter sounds way easier that getting all that steel shiny. I can sand and grind some, but shiny? No.

Okay, the latex is out for the steel. I'll see what Home Depot has for rust converters. Thanks.

EDIT: That's Eddy's garage. Somebody sold him 4 of those horn speakers for a c note. They sound terrible.

 

[KEW]

That rust converter sounds way easier that getting all that steel shiny. I can sand and grind some, but shiny? No.

I had some serious rust issues on my band saw table and had good results spraying the surface with WD-40 and cutting a piece of scotchbrite to fit my orbital sander (IIRC, I just depended on the scotchbrite grabbing the sander's pad without doing anything to affix it). It was a messy process (rusty WD-40 being thrown about),but did not take long. I ended up with the right surface finish to match the rest of the table.
Of course, you'd need to do a thorough clean to get rid of all of the WD-40 before you paint.

For what you are doing, Naval Jelly is a decent option as it also etches the steel so it is prepped for paint! But I would generally defer to Mr Boat since he works with this type of stuff on a regular basis!

https://www.ehow.com/list_6536678_uses-naval-jelly.html

If you are going to attach the beam to a wall, make sure the wall is not subject to vibration from a door being shut or anything else.
In one house I lived in, I ended up suspending my turntable with cord from the ceiling of my A-frame because simply walking across the room would cause low frequency rumble/noise (with TT set on a built-in shelf unit).

 

[carlthess40]

I would not use a water based paint on steel, use oil.

Once I get the surface back to smooth shiny metal. I give it a wipe with Prep-All. I have used that product for 20 years or more. It is fast and gets off all residual grease.

I suspect you will use spray cans, but if you use a compressor driven sprayer then water filters are a must. Use at least two in line.

You do know that all cars made in the USA are spayed with water based paint. And many states that all the will let you use. Ca first to start this crap way of painting Florida started in few years ago. It’s hard to use but turns out very well. Although the primer is no water base. The tree huggers forgot about the primer lol

 

[KEW]

You do know that all cars made in the USA are spayed with water based paint. And many states that all the will let you use. Ca first to start this crap way of painting Florida started in few years ago. It’s hard to use but turns out very well. Although the primer is no water base. The tree huggers forgot about the primer lol

No, using water based primer/paint directly on steel is problematic!
No one expects the auto industry to use something that just won't work!
Aside from a good surface for adhesion of the top coat, the primer provides a barrier to prevent the top coat's water from reacting with the steel.

 

[Alex2507]

all cars made in the USA are spayed with water based paint

I don't know this Mr. Boat guy at all but he seems to be able to address future comments from the past.
The talent pool here is pretty amazing.

some professional coating from say, the auto industry

I'm leaning away from auto industry stuff because of a lack of knowledge.

How about that 'red lead'. I see it on structural steel all the time. Granted, nobody at work is painting steel with an HVLP but the red iron oxide primer seems to be good enough for them. I'd rather just start with the shellac primer I have from Sherwin Williams because as soon as I walk into a store, it's a hundred bucks. The first thing I need is a respirator. Sherwin is preferred but I'll have a HD credit from some returns today.

I'll ask about Prep-All, red lead and a polymeric rust converter.

 

[MrBoat]

"Red lead" is used for wood boats/ships and is actually orange colored. For steel, zinc chromate is best and iron oxide would be no less expensive but would be fine for interior use. Even automotive or rattle can red or gray primer would suffice for interior use, unless it was in the bathroom, perhaps.

 

[Alex2507]

"Red lead" is used for wood boats/ships and is actually orange colored. For steel, zinc chromate is best and iron oxide would be no less expensive but would be fine for interior use. Even automotive or rattle can red or gray primer would suffice for interior use, unless it was in the bathroom, perhaps.

I guess it could be worse.

$135 for Rustoleum's rust reformer, rusty metal primer, flat black oil based paint, respirator that mentions oil and an assortment of chemicals.

What could go wrong?

 

[Alex2507]

In other junk news ...



Low light so flash ...





Straight out the dumpst-ah. I had the valance built before the knee replacement. It's been hanging around evah since.

... and it's still not 100% finito. I need to install the rods but that screw is so small and my fingers are so big and the clearance for a screw driver only leaves enough room for a bit, a short one at that.

I was going to make it so I could do pull ups on it but the ceiling attachment is a series of toggles through double 5/8. I saw how they screwed the rest of the drywall off and worried that I might pull the whole ceiling down. I can't do pull ups anyway, let's not kid ourselves.