Opinions on Dayton subs? Anything better in the same price range?

[yepimonfire]

I've been using a sub 1000 for about 2 months now. I have to say, for $110 this thing is an incredible bargain. There's no one note boominess or audible port noise even at high volume. Unfortunately, it does seem to roll off quite steeply after about 35hz, with the lowest usable frequency being 30hz. It does seem to handle movies at reference level surprisingly well. Using band limited pink noise I measure 108 dB c weighted before I began noticing distortion. Is there anything to match this at the sub $500 range? Preferably something that can hit 20hz.

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[shadyJ]

There are a lot of subs better at the $500 range. If you need a lot of output, I would be looking at the Premiere Acoustics PA-150. If you want a accurate response and reasonably good extension and punchy mid bass, I would look at the Hsu VTF1 mk3. The $500 sub with the most extension is probably the SVS PB1000. A very good sub at $500 looks to be the RBH I-12. For $100 more you can get the Hsu VTF2 mk5 which will pound hard and extend very deep.

 

[j_garcia]

I bought my kids the "flat" version of that 10" sub and have to say it also performs surprisingly well. IMO, there is nothing else as good as them under $200. The sub 1000 occasionally goes on sale for less than $100 with free shipping too.

 

[yepimonfire]

I bought my kids the "flat" version of that 10" sub and have to say it also performs surprisingly well. IMO, there is nothing else as good as them under $200. The sub 1000 occasionally goes on sale for less than $100 with free shipping too.

Any idea if the sub 1500 is any better than the sub 1000? Only major difference is a 150 amplifier and a frequency response down to 20hz. I trust their ratings because their sub 1200 has measured -3 dB at 25hz, which IIRC is the rating given on parts express. The sub 1000 as measured by myself is -3dB at 30hz. The tech at parts express claims their amps are capable of double the rms rating peak, I haven't measured the rms power or peak myself but just based on the math 100w, with an 86 dB sensitivity at 1w/1m (specs on the driver on their website ) is 98dB, add 6 dB to account for it being close to the wall and a corner and that's 104dB. Considering I got 108 dB sustained for 45 second at a distance of 8 ft with no audible distortion I'd say that estimate is very conservative. It may very well be capable of more spl but my wife was getting extremely annoyed by that point and considering this was in the house I didn't want to go deaf.

Despite testing while on the other side of the door, there reaches a point where the door is no longer an effective barrier at such a high spl.

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[j_garcia]

I don't have experience with it but have a friend who had the previous 15". What you should get out of it is more output and obviously more extension.

When I run my system calibration, I take the animals and go in the other room with the door closed also.

 

[lovinthehd]

The difference between a 10" driver and a 15" isn't a major difference?

Any idea if the sub 1500 is any better than the sub 1000? Only major difference is a 150 amplifier and a frequency response down to 20hz. I trust their ratings because their sub 1200 has measured -3 dB at 25hz, which IIRC is the rating given on parts express. The sub 1000 as measured by myself is -3dB at 30hz. The tech at parts express claims their amps are capable of double the rms rating peak, I haven't measured the rms power or peak myself but just based on the math 100w, with an 86 dB sensitivity at 1w/1m (specs on the driver on their website ) is 98dB, add 6 dB to account for it being close to the wall and a corner and that's 104dB. Considering I got 108 dB sustained for 45 second at a distance of 8 ft with no audible distortion I'd say that estimate is very conservative. It may very well be capable of more spl but my wife was getting extremely annoyed by that point and considering this was in the house I didn't want to go deaf.

Despite testing while on the other side of the door, there reaches a point where the door is no longer an effective barrier at such a high spl.

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[rojo]

Brent Butterworth measured the SUB-1500 and the SUB-1000L (@j_garcia's flat version), as well as a bunch of other <$250 subs. See this interactive graph. You'll see that at 20Hz, the SUB-1500 (as well as the BIC V1220) is about 6dB louder than the SUB-1000L.

But a budget of ~$500 opens up better alternatives -- a few that @shadyJ mentioned, as well as the Rythmik LV12R, the RSL Speedwoofer 10S, and perhaps others.

 

[yepimonfire]

I'm really thinking more along the lines of ~$350. If the sub 1500 is good to 20hz, then unless someone can recommend a sub in the above mentioned price range that can hit 15hz (which is the lower limit of what's audible to me) at no less than -6dB then I would be spending a whole lot more money for a tiny bit extra performance. Outdoors the sub 1000 measures +-3dB flat within its frequency response range, so it's not like I would be getting a more accurate sub. Yes, I realize I would be getting anywhere from 2-2 1/2 times as much power, but obviously from my testing I don't need it. If I moved to a larger room I could just as easily stack a second sub 1500 on top of the other and get 6dB for an extra $170

Brent Butterworth measured the SUB-1500 and the SUB-1000L (@j_garcia's flat version), as well as a bunch of other <$250 subs. See this interactive graph. You'll see that at 20Hz, the SUB-1500 (as well as the BIC V1220) is about 6dB louder than the SUB-1000L.

But a budget of ~$500 opens up better alternatives -- a few that @shadyJ mentioned, as well as the Rythmik LV12R, the RSL Speedwoofer 10S, and perhaps others.

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[rojo]

I'm really thinking more along the lines of ~$350. If the sub 1500 is good to 20hz, then unless someone can recommend a sub in the above mentioned price range that can hit 15hz (which is the lower limit of what's audible to me) at no less than -6dB then I would be spending a whole lot more money for a tiny bit extra performance. Outdoors the sub 1000 measures +-3dB flat within its frequency response range, so it's not like I would be getting a more accurate sub. Yes, I realize I would be getting anywhere from 2-2 1/2 times as much power, but obviously from my testing I don't need it. If I moved to a larger room I could just as easily stack a second sub 1500 on top of the other and get 6dB for an extra $170



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The Rythmik LV12R will hit 19Hz at -2dB for $569 shipped. The Hsu VTF-2 MK5 will hit 18Hz at -2dB for $604 shipped. Those are probably your least expensive options for plunging into the teens with a flat response.

Within your $350 budget, the Premier Acoustic PL-150 that shadyJ recommended is about 7.5dB stronger at 20Hz than the Dayton SUB-1500 and the BIC V1220, although you'd probably need to shape the curve with a DSP to make 20Hz as strong as 30 with that unit. (Sources: Ricci measurements at 2 meters RMS + his comments vs. Butterworth measurements at 1 meter peak)

 

[Verdinut]

The difference between a 10" driver and a 15" isn't a major difference?

The 15" driver should normally displace more than double the air than a 10" subwoofer. For deep solid bass below 30 Hz, you would need at least a 12" transducer with an extended maximum cone excursion.

One advantage with the bigger cone area is that it produces less distortion, since the cone has to move less to generate the same SPL (Sound Pressure Level).