No power at sub plate. Fuse looks fine

[Mhester1]

I have a Boston Acoustics PV800 and I’m getting no power. Power light doesn’t come one. Checked the fuse and it looks fine. Pulled the plate to see if I could spot anything obviously blown, melted or otherwise looking as it shouldn’t. Nothing looks terribly wrong. Where do i start to troubleshoot it? I’m not an electronics repair expert or even novice but my neighbor is an electrician and surely has amp/ohm meter.

I’ll have him test the fuse (maybe it’s blown at the end Andy I can’t see it - doubtful). But after that what’s next?

 

[HTfreak2004]

I have a Boston Acoustics PV800 and I’m getting no power. Power light doesn’t come one. Checked the fuse and it looks fine. Pulled the plate to see if I could spot anything obviously blown, melted or otherwise looking as it shouldn’t. Nothing looks terribly wrong. Where do i start to troubleshoot it? I’m not an electronics repair expert or even novice but my neighbor is an electrician and surely has amp/ohm meter.

I’ll have him test the fuse (maybe it’s blown at the end Andy I can’t see it - doubtful). But after that what’s next?

I had a blown fuse on one of my Amp channels before. Cheap part but was a pain in the Royal ass to replace it.

 

[TLS Guy]

I have a Boston Acoustics PV800 and I’m getting no power. Power light doesn’t come one. Checked the fuse and it looks fine. Pulled the plate to see if I could spot anything obviously blown, melted or otherwise looking as it shouldn’t. Nothing looks terribly wrong. Where do i start to troubleshoot it? I’m not an electronics repair expert or even novice but my neighbor is an electrician and surely has amp/ohm meter.

I’ll have him test the fuse (maybe it’s blown at the end Andy I can’t see it - doubtful). But after that what’s next?

By all means check the fuse for continuity with a multimeter. If it is blown then realize that fuses blow for a reason. More likely than not the switching power supply in the sub amp has failed. Unfortunately this is an all too common problem. These power supplies are complex and very difficult and expensive to service, and pretty much never a wise investment.

So your options are to replace the sub, to order an new sub amp and replace that and lastly to leave the sub amp in place, but disconnect the driver from the amp and connect it to speaker terminals that you install on the box. Then you purchase a power amp and use that instead. The latter is actually a very good option, unless you want a better sub. Since your current amp has failed a replacement is quite likely to also. If however you purchased a Crown amp, for instance, and powered the sub externally you would be much less likely to have further problems.