Need Help Diagnosing or Re-using Sub

I

igotthelife

Audiophyte
At my wits end. Not having a sub is the worst. I have a Sony SA-WM40. I couldn't get any sound out but the speaker does move slightly. It does come on but very rarely and then quits. Used a different cable, no change. The sub does get a signal because it comes out of hibernation. Tried the level and crossover knobs as well as turning the hibernation off.
I have taken the speaker out and measured 7.21 ohm's so the speaker is still good I guess. Solder joints look good. Free movement of the cone. Circuit boards look good. No obvious discolored components. Fuse is fine. Is there any further checks I can Make? I've been to the end of the internet and back for help.
If all else fails, can I use the enclosure and speaker and replace some/ all the electrical components and save some $$$? If so how do I know what to get? Can't afford a new sub at this point.

Thanks, Frank
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Samurai
At my wits end. Not having a sub is the worst. I have a Sony SA-WM40. I couldn't get any sound out but the speaker does move slightly. It does come on but very rarely and then quits. Used a different cable, no change. The sub does get a signal because it comes out of hibernation. Tried the level and crossover knobs as well as turning the hibernation off.
I have taken the speaker out and measured 7.21 ohm's so the speaker is still good I guess. Solder joints look good. Free movement of the cone. Circuit boards look good. No obvious discolored components. Fuse is fine. Is there any further checks I can Make? I've been to the end of the internet and back for help.
If all else fails, can I use the enclosure and speaker and replace some/ all the electrical components and save some $$$? If so how do I know what to get? Can't afford a new sub at this point.

Thanks, Frank
If I were you, I wouldn't loose much time with trying to fix that subwoofer. It's a powered sub and the problem with most of them is that the inboard amp fails after a certain period because of overheating.
I suggest that you save your money and eventually look for a new passive sub and use an external amp such as one of the Crown XLS series amps to drive it.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I agree with Verdinut.

That sub is not repairable. It seems to be a sealed sub, so the amp will have custom Eq circuits.

If you have woodworking skills your cheapest solution is probably to build one.

Otherwise save for a decent unit. I don't know what the rest of your rig is like, so it is hard to advise you.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
FWIW Mark, it is actually ported.

Still, I would put any resources designated for saving this towards a new one. IMO. You’ll be much farther ahead with a better subwoofer in the end.
 
I

igotthelife

Audiophyte
Last question before I go to the dump. I took the left channel out lead and connected it to the sub's left in and it works. Still junk?

Thanks, Frank
 
vader540is

vader540is

Junior Audioholic
What is wrong with this?

View attachment 37699
I'm not familiar with that subwoofer, but IIRC you will not be able to utilize the LFE channel and that sub doesn't have a built-in cross over. So your Speakers will get a full signal. You will have extremely boomy bass.

Best to save for a decent budget subwoofer like a BIC F12 or a Dayton sub1500. Or maybe check the used market for a used SVS or HSU.
 
I

igotthelife

Audiophyte
I'm not familiar with that subwoofer, but IIRC you will not be able to utilize the LFE channel and that sub doesn't have a built-in cross over. So your Speakers will get a full signal. You will have extremely boomy bass.

Best to save for a decent budget subwoofer like a BIC F12 or a Dayton sub1500. Or maybe check the used market for a used SVS or HSU.
Thanks vader
 

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