Need help about subs and enclosure

[Tpainxx]

I purchased a jbl 10 inch sub for my car, and a dual sub box with it being open inside between the 2 sub spaces (so no seperating wall). So what I want to know is if I could use the dual sub box with one sub? If not, would it work if I closed off the other sub opening with plywood and sealing glue?



also would a MTX JackHammer 2-Channel Car Amplifier (JH202)
with these stats

# Of Channels
2 / 1 Channels

1 OHM Output Power - Full Range
Not Applicable

14.4V Dynamic Power At 2 Ohms
400 Watts

2 OHM Output Power - Full Range
400 Watts

4 OHM Output Power - Full Range
200 Watts

Bass Boost
No

Bridgeable
Yes

Bridged Power At 2 OHMS - Full Range
Not Applicable

Bridged Power At 4 OHMS - Full Range
400 Watts

External Bass Control Capable
Yes (Optional extra)

Fuse Rating (Amps)
30 Amps



and this sub JBL 10" Car Subwoofer (GTO1014D)
with these stats

# Frequency Response
25Hz - 400Hz

# Impedance
2 Or 8 Ohms
# Magnet Weight
Information Not Available

# Mounting Depth
148 mm

# Ported Box Volume
1.25 Cu. Ft.

# Power Handling Max
1400 Watts

# Power Handling Nominal
350 Watts



work good? I'm new to this

 

[zumbo]

The best thing to do is get the correct enclosure for the sub. Every sub is designed for specific enclosure volumes, and types. A professional installer will know exactly what to do.

My suggestion is to find an installer who is willing to do this for you. You have a couple of decent pieces, and a professional will be able to install this for you to get the most enjoyment out of your investment.

 

[zumbo]

Here is a single 10" ported box with 1.25 volume. It is the correct ported box for your sub:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SEV10-10-Inch-1-25Cu-Enclosure/dp/B000EOMWC6

Correct sealed box:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1075S/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html?tp=127

 

[zumbo]

Another suggestion would be just to buy another sub.

1) You already have a box.
2) Apparently you have room for it.
3) You will get the most out of your amp with those subs in 2ohm stereo, or 4ohms bridged.
4) In your current situation, you would need to get a mono signal to each amp input so you could wire one voice coil to the left channel, and one to the right. I have never done that. Otherwise, you will be bridging an 8ohm load to yield half the amps potential power.

My experience is with single voice coil subs, which is why I recommend a professional installer. Even if you think you understand what I am saying, there is hundreds of things that can go wrong.

 

[Tpainxx]

Another suggestion would be just to buy another sub.

1) You already have a box.
2) Apparently you have room for it.
3) You will get the most out of your amp with those subs in 2ohm stereo, or 4ohms bridged.
4) In your current situation, you would need to get a mono signal to each amp input so you could wire one voice coil to the left channel, and one to the right. I have never done that. Otherwise, you will be bridging an 8ohm load to yield half the amps potential power.

My experience is with single voice coil subs, which is why I recommend a professional installer. Even if you think you understand what I am saying, there is hundreds of things that can go wrong.

Thanks, you've helped me a lot, I've been stuck on what to do for days now lol

And yeah, I would probably be better off buying another sub than another box. Since I've already paid so much for the box

Would it be ok using a different brand of sub with different rms and ohms? Also could you expand on point 4? Links and what wire are needed.

 

[zumbo]

Your sub has two 4ohm voice coils.

When the coils are wired together(combine + to +), and (- to -), it is called parallel. This gives you a 2ohm load. This is ideal for one channel of your amp. If you try to bridge that 2ohm load(combine the left and right channel of your amp), the amp will see a 1ohm load. The amp can't handle that.

If you wire one of the (+ to -) on the opposed sides of the woofer(This is called series), and then use the remaining + and - to bridge on the amp, the amp will see a 4ohm load yielding half of it's power.

If you had two of them, you could parallel the coils on each to present the amp with two 2ohm stereo loads.

Keep in mind, this is just the description of the equipment you have.

Here is a link to different applications. I couldn't get the link to work.
http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2259

Try this one.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FeGiK0OHvSQ/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

 

[zumbo]

My recommendation of adding an identical sub. Ideal situation. 2ohm load.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg

Your current situation. Not ideal. 8ohm load.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg

 

[Tpainxx]

Your sub has two 4ohm voice coils.

When the coils are wired together(combine + to +), and (- to -), it is called parallel. This gives you a 2ohm load. This is ideal for one channel of your amp. If you try to bridge that 2ohm load(combine the left and right channel of your amp), the amp will see a 1ohm load. The amp can't handle that.

What if I run the parallel to each channel like this?
img43.imageshack.us/img43/2815/xrxrx.png

or using bridged like this?
img88.imageshack.us/img88/1463/u8i77.png

you need to copy and paste the links since it won't let me post them