Need Guidance buying 5.1 HT Spkrs & Receiver

[KEW]

Excellent! Both on the 340's and your experiences with Ascend and Hsu.

When you sell your product by phone and internet, you realize it is best to shoot straight!
For one thing, anyone contacting them has at least a little more of a clue than the most people walking into BestBuy. You wouldn't know about Hsu or Ascend unless you did some research (usually reading or discussing with forums like this). Essentially, in this day and age we are reverting to word of mouth and these companies are astutely aware how important their reputation is to their business!
Don't worry too much about awkwardness over not buying Hsu speakers or Ascend subs. Actually neither is a bad option. The general word is Ascend speakers are better than Hsu's but Hsu's are still good.
Ascend sells Rythmik subs (out of Texas). Ascend decided to form a partnership with an established sub rather than make something that may or may not keep up with their speakers. The debate of Rythmik vs Hsu subs is not at all clear. Both are excellent. (I have a pair of Rythmik's).
Just be honest. Tell Hsu that you are planning to buy Ascend speakers, but wanted to check his out while you are there (and of course you will...listening to solo sub is not worth much). Tell Ascend that you are looking at Hsu sub, but ask what he would recommend.

As far as which sub, you should really put that to Hsu and Ascend. If they want to know beforehand, tell them about your room and budget and let them tell you what to audition. That is a big part of their business.

In your room, you will not get too much sub, so I would advise (and expect them to as well) getting the most expensive ported you can afford. The other question is should you buy (for example) 2 $550 subs or a $1100 sub? Let them offer you solutions first, then chose between them.

Also ask about B-stock (returned items). It is a good way to save some money and with them so close and giving personal service, you needn't worry about getting stuck with your speaker in the shop for a month. Though quite honestly, there is not much to go wrong with a speaker or sub that would not be obvious to Ascend or Hsu. Usually the only issue might be a scratch on the bottom, if that.

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Yeah I do get a good vibe from both Ascend and HSU in my initial dealings with both which is cool. Their quality seems to be beyond repute and being really cool to deal with too is nice. If you've ever dealt with big companies, and we all do, dealing with small companies and the guys who MAKE the product and designed it etc. is refreshing. Total word of mouth advertising/promotion (Ascend told me they didn't go to CES to get a Booth OR to seek vendors). They like their niche and if they can't make the speakers themselves, they refuse to outsource. They are not greedy and not trying to get bigger. Its Ascend's philosophy.

Good advice on dealing with them. I'm sure they won't dump on each other or shame me for my choice of speakers/sub. I'll just tell them straight what I intend to buy. I didn't tell Ascend I was buying a HSU and they didn't ask.

I do intend to pick everyone's brains and get their opinions from both companies when I go see them and show them my room pics etc.
But I'm not going to visit them until next Wednesday AAAND I really value what your knowledge and opinions!!!!!

So Regarding the subs, I really want to buy it as if I don't plan to add a second sub and I want to keep it under $800 which is why I narrowed my choices to the 3 I posted. If I do add a second sub, it will be further down the road. I don't see much difference in how HSU describes the models that I'm looking at. Is there a reason you guys have for preferring the VTF-3 mk4 over the others? Versatility?

I always read that bigger is better when it comes to subs and to get the biggest you can afford and I thought maybe that VT-15 would be a step up from the VTF-3 mk4. Could be a previous version. It IS on clearance but was at a higher price point than the mk4 and seems to have a pretty good discount. I sensed perhaps it was a deal AND a step up albeit at a higher cost. Is the VTF-3 mk4 a more advanced model than the VT-15 spec wise?? I see that it has I will ask them at HSU but they may not wanna tell me one is not as good as the other.

What do you guys think? Is bigger better in this case with an $800 sub budget what would you do under these circumstances?

 

[Ty Wayne]

Glad to hear you liked the 340's Clay. I just ordered last week two 340 mains, a 340 center, and two CBM-170's for my rears. Also ordered a Rythmik sub (LV12R), but its out of stock until mid-February. Should be getting my speakers on Friday and cant wait to fire em up!

 

[KEW]

VFT-15
You are right. This is the more powerful of the Hsu subs and the one you that would work best in your room. The CEA 2010 rating is what you are interested in. We already know that these subs are well designed etc, so can limit evaluation to output.

VFT-3 is a decent cost compromise, but it is a compromise. Buying 2 VFT-3's would beat a VTF-1, but it would also cost more.

VFT-2 same comments as VFT-3, only more so.

Rythmik I believe they can go toe to toe with Hsu, however, you need a ported sub for that large room and their ported offerings jump from $570 for the LV12R to over $1000 for their next largest. I feel comfortable that the LV12R could not match the VFT-15's output, so that eliminates Rythmik.
But you can expect some solid clean bass when listening to the 340's in Ascend's house.

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Hey Folks Here's and Update:

KEW, yeah I am trying to get all the base I can afford for sure. I have also heard nothing but praise for Rythmik subs. For me, its really a location thing. Sub shipping can get up there but to purchase with local pick-up from HSU had me not even really considering other subs. Not really any reasoning other than that for me. If I was near Rythmik itd be a different choice.

Ty, we gotta compare notes on the Ascends going forward!! You will likely be up and running before me even though I am purchasing a few things next week. (I think I posted that Ascend will be ending its Holiday Sale fairly soon if anyone is looking to buy....). I'm curious to see what you have to say about the 340s!!

Im picking up the 340s and the HSU Sub next Wednesday so I will be picking alotta brains all that day. In the meantime, I've been looking at the best options for mounts. Ascend is going to try to assist in recommending some viable options. They CAN be mounted and secured with the single screw hole near the bottom under the terminals. I have also seen recommendations for the different types of clamp secure type mounts around:

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Clamping-Mounting-Surrounding-MS56B/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

and

http://www.amazon.com/B-Tech-BT77-Ultragrip-Speaker-Black/dp/B004DCAOHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421460675&sr=8-1&keywords=BT77#Ask

and

http://www.amazon.com/Pinpoint-Mounts-AM41B-Clamping-Bookshelf/dp/B00K8BI29W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421462181&sr=8-1&keywords=AM-41

I've been looking at using insulation tape (tough and double sided) or BluTack or heavy duty velcro on the bottoms/base of each 21" tall 340 in addition to the chosen clamp mount (whichever it may be). But that still seems a little dicey for 26lb speakers. If there is an option that allows the rear of the speaker to be screwed to the mount somehow, that would be the best thing. I will see what Ascend says. They have a few customers who have effectively mounted 340s and they were going to try to get that information or hook me up with contact info for those customers. Mounting the 340C Center speaker is supposed to be a tough proposition because the mounting screw hole is still where it is for the main 340s, under the terminals.


I have been emailing back and forth with the consultant and HSU. They have been very helpful. They asked for all room measurements and placement info for the speakers and I also sent them pics of the room. The consultant said "...in order to truly fill the fill cubic space capacity we would recommend dual subs." That said, they understand the budget and recommended a compromise bang for the buck option of this model:

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3mk5HP.html

They said this Mk5 is a actually out performs the VFT-15H which is an older model. BUT, If I can get some good news on the back order status, I'd have to consider this one:

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-15hmk2.html

Its specs appear similar but they tuning and the construction is different and its a very popular model (obviously--backordered).

I am looking now to REWIRE my prewire with better gauge in wall speaker wire. I'm lookin on BlueJeans and......

QUESTION:
My runs distances are not an issue. What do you guys recommend I go with for Ascend 340s?? Here is a pic of the rear of the 340s for reference:
http://www.ascendacoustics.com/images/products/speakers/cmt340m/340se_lt_bk_hr.jpg

Thanks for all the input, suggestions, and help. I have been recommending this site to all of my people. Killer advice!!!! More noobies are comin!!!!!!! You are forewarned......

 

[Clay Bertrand]

HERES "AND" TYPO!!!!

 

[KEW]

I was looking at the VTF-3 Mk4. Did not realize a Mk5 existed!
Shopping with Hsu has gotten complicated with all of the different versions; but that is a good thing because it allows more steps along the price/performance ladder!

I would buy high friction sheet, Item C from the link below to protect the finish of your speakers and apply clamping friction. Cut the sheet to fit the bracket's bottom and the sides.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41637&p=67844

Test as you go, see how well it works. Put the speakers on the sheet/brackets without clamping and tilt. See how far it tilts before it starts to fall. After you get the sides clamped with the sheet, try to push the speaker out of the bracket. It looks like you can add one or more screws into the bottom. It is hard to imagine anyone getting too bent about a screw hole in the bottom of a used speaker. I don't think you will need it, but then again, 15 years later, the friction sheet has shrunk or partially disintegrated (but that usually takes direct sunlight). If you want to "absolutely positively", screws are good. One guy screw mounted Sierra 1's in the Pinpoint Mounts (First review if sort as "most helpful first") - has photos. Some have used zip-ties or tie-wraps to tether from the spare terminal post (or the screw hole in the back of your 340s) to keep the speaker from sliding or tilting forward.

Which bracket? First check to see what angle of tilt is required to point the speaker at your listening position. One of the options allows 7 degrees, the other two, 10. You may not end up pointing them directly at you, but you want the option as you are fine-tuning the sound. Ask Ascend about this and see how they set up their listening area. Their recommendations are the best starting point.

Since you are now looking at a 26 pound speaker, I would go for one of the two heavier brackets. If the price of the Pinpoint is per mount, that is pretty pricey. If for a pair, it looks like it and the Btech are pretty similar in all aspects. Read several reviews for each.

On the receiver end, if you don't already have, I would install one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/OSD-Audio-WP12-Terminal-Theater/dp/B0093IWH7O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421474734&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker terminals wall

You can probably unscrew one of the auxiliary terminals and replace it with an RCA connector if you want to locate your sub away from the receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/Phono-Socket-Faceplate-Right-Audio/dp/B00GRVI57Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421476355&sr=1-2&keywords=RCA terminals wall

With your your speaker wire run out of sight, I would use this:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2789&seq=1&format=2

12 gauge is heavier than you'll need for most if not all of your runs, but it doesn't hurt and only costs a few dollars more. It looks like the wires will be almost completely hidden. Read the review involving the Sierra 1's - he used a specific type of toggle to mount the brackets to the drywall instead of the stud. I agree - you can't just use any dry wall anchors, but if you look around at Lowes or HD, you will see ratings upwards of 50 pounds used in 1/2" drywall. This way you can put the bracket where it completely covers the hole the speaker wire comes out of.

 

[shadyJ]

Hi, I will just add a couple things. The B-Tech, Am40 Pinpoints, and Videosecu speaker mounts are basically all the same, with a few slight alterations. It looks to me like they are coming from the same plant in China. That being the case, I would just go with the Videosecu mounts sine they are the cheapest. They are all very good.

As for the Hsu subs, if you are thinking about the VTF15h mk1, I would make the stretch to the VTF3 mk5. It doesn't cost a lot more, but above 20 Hz it offers superior performance, and is well worth the upgrade in my opinion. The VTF15h mk1 will dig a little deeper and should have a bit smoother deep bass thanks to its larger ports, but it won't compete with the VTF3 mk5 otherwise. The VTF3 mk5 uses the same driver as the new VTF15h mk2 and a very similar amplifier. As for the VTF3 mk4s, they are good, but I wouldn't buy any now with the expectation of getting one later, since they are being clearanced out for the mk5. But any of these subs are a great value and are essentially the best performing subs at their price point in my opinion.

 

[zieglj01]

As for the VTF3 mk4s, they are good, but I wouldn't buy any now with the expectation of getting one later, since they are being clearanced out for the mk5.

Good point.

 

[Ty Wayne]

Yeah Clay, I'll let you know how I like the 340's. The shipping on my speakers was delayed this week, so I didn't receive them Friday as I had anticipated. I was totally bummed! The good news is that they should be here Tuesday!

On the speaker mounts, I actually just got those B-Tech ones. Im going to use them for my Ascend 170 surrounds. I probably went a little overkill because the 170's only weigh 14 lbs. a piece, but that's okay. I just installed the mounts this morning and I think they are going to be just fine for me. I put them into studs and they are very sturdy mounts. The platform tilts and swivels easily. Though I do not have them tilted, so Im not overly concerned about the speaker falling out of them. Once I place my Ascends in them, I might rig something up like Kew suggested just to be on the safe side. Doubt I'll use any screws though. For now I have them holding my old Kenwood surrounds, and even though those speakers are pretty small compared to what the 170's will be, they still look pretty good on the somewhat large B-Tech wall mounts.

The only thing about the B-Tech and those VideoSecu mounts is that they do not have a hole in the cover plate for your speaker wire. You could always drill your own hole, so I don't guess that's a big deal as long as your careful not to crack the plastic cover. However, the Pinpoint wall mounts do already have a hole for your wire. Not sure if thats a big deal to you or not? Also, relating to Kew's question about the Pinpoints, they are priced for a pair.

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Hey Kew,

Yeah I have been looking at those mounts and they seem to all be pretty heavy duty and they all have decent reviews. I also saw the whole wall anchor thing which made sense I suppose but I'm already funky with the clamp mount. Plus, Sierra 1s are big bookshelves I think and a full 7 inches shorter than the 340s I'll be getting. So a whole third taller overall with the same other dimensions AND the 340s are 6 lbs heavier (these are pretty big --- not bookshelves) so I think my tilt, even slight, will perhaps be too much for the grip product you linked. They will tend to be more top heavyish . But I am definitely going to rig up a little deal to mount the speaker via the single hole mount like you mentioned. I will have to drill a hole in the mount possibly but I can't bring myself to drill any holes in these new speakers. Something can be rigged up to help the mount. Maybe the grip stuff would be good in combo with everything else actually.

Your advice on pretesting the mounts is very useful. Gotta test it all out!!! I agree!!

As for the wiring plate organizer, I am gonna stick with my recessed look and try to do a recessed version of that box. I know the components will still be there sticking out from the wall and its overkill on the recess when I have plenty of room but I'm gonna be cutting the wall up some as it is to mount my tv on that recessed mount (just came today) so I figure why stop there.

As Ty points out, Wire management on a couple of the cheaper clamp models is non existent (one most helpful reviewer explains he drilled a hole to get his speaker wire thru the base plate) and the newer more pricey AM41s I posted have a predrilled hole for the wiring (DUUUHHH!!!).

Lastly on the mounts, the 340s are 10.5" wide also just like the Sierra 1s and 2 of the cheaper mounts only "Go to Eleven" (Nigel Tufnel--Sorry Had to do it). The more pricey mount goes 12" wide so maybe its better because its clamps are not at their limits I'm thinking. They all look the same or similar though. I want to see how Ty Wayne goes with his mounts and 340s

Yeah Shadyj, thanks for your take on the HSU subs. What you said is similar to what the HSU consultant was saying regarding the different models. They seem to have some models that are older that they are discontinuing and they also have their new stock. Its a little confusing I will agree because there are so many models and some relatively close in price. But that VTF-3 MK5 HP does look impressive from what I have read. I'm thinking I'd like to get the VTF-15H MK2 for $100 more. DO you think that's a better way to go?? It is on back order....

On the Speaker Wire, I know its not REALLY NECESSARY performance wise, but I am thinking of rewiring with the Blue Jeans Cable Belden 5000 Series White AWG12 (the 5000UE in their pricing calculator by foot indicator) because it is actually rated for In Wall Use as opposed to zip line. I figure I might as well use the right stuff since its the same work pulling it. I know the performance will not differ. Just being anal I suppose.....

QUESTIONS:
Regarding the wiring, I was going to get the fattest gauge I could and reasonably pull and deal with. Ascend's owner Dave in one of their older forums said he recommends 14 gauge (minimum) but I haven't found anyone that can accurately state that Bi-Wiring their 340s produces better sound than decent gauge 2 wire.

What do you guys believe regarding Bi-wiring versus regular wiring?? I am not talking about bi-amping but simply the wiring of the speakers. ANy benefit over going 12 AWG regular wiring????

Regarding the HSU Sub options, I think I have narrowed it for sure to these two. Now if the back order is not a significant issue, would you guys see a benefit in going with the VTF-15H MK2
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-15hmk2.html which is only $100.00 more than the VTF-3 MK5 HP
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3mk5HP.html ??

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Ty Wayne,

If you haven't already looked, the Ascend forums have some excellent product specific commentary and information. The owner and speaker builder David Fabrikant often will post to clear up questions among product owners. One thread has the specifics on the screws for mounting the 340s.....something like, 1/4" 20 machine screws 1/2" pan head.....but do visit the Ascend forums for any Ascend Specifics. Can save you alotta time. Its funny because if they can't figure stuff out on that forum, guys refer people here to the Audioholics!!!!!!!!

Keep posting on your 340 experience as it unfolds man!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to all you guys who kick in your wisdom!!!!!!!!

 

[shadyJ]

Clay, the difference between the VTF3 mk5 and VTF15h mk2 is mostly just a matter of deep bass (unless you need XLR inputs). The VTF15h mk2 will get you to 16 Hz pretty, whereas the VTF3 mk5 will get you to 18 Hz. What's more is the VTF15h mk2 will be less susceptible to port chuffing due to its larger ports. If you are going to Hsu to demo their stuff, ask them to play something that will illustrate the difference between the two. Some people love that deep bass, others would think the difference is too subtle to be worth the extra cash (not to mention floorspace).

 

[GIEGAR]

Also, sorry to have neglected giving you guys PROPER KUDOS via likes and all. I was unaware I could do that. I've never been a member in a forum. So let me see what I can do about giving you all your proper due!!!!!!!!

There's no need for apologies at all Clay!

In fact you should be commended... in my short time on the forums (here and AVS) this has to rank as one of the best conducted "beginner/help" threads I have seen. You do your own research, ask relevant questions, give good feedback and move through logically... very well done. So KUDOS to you Clay! I genuinely hope that you won't ride of into the sunset when your purchases are made and installed, but continue to come here to learn more and contribute. I think you have a lot to offer.

On the Speaker Wire, I know its not REALLY NECESSARY performance wise, but I am thinking of rewiring with the Blue Jeans Cable Belden 5000 Series White AWG12 (the 5000UE in their pricing calculator by foot indicator) because it is actually rated for In Wall Use as opposed to zip line. I figure I might as well use the right stuff since its the same work pulling it. I know the performance will not differ. Just being anal I suppose.....

It's always wise to use wire rated for it's particular use, in my opinion.

QUESTIONS:
Regarding the wiring, I was going to get the fattest gauge I could and reasonably pull and deal with. Ascend's owner Dave in one of their older forums said he recommends 14 gauge (minimum) but I haven't found anyone that can accurately state that Bi-Wiring their 340s produces better sound than decent gauge 2 wire.

Use your longest run and input the data into this calculator: Speaker Wire Calculator ... and buy a spool of that. Wire of 14AWG should be fine out to at least 50ft according to Roger Russell's Speaker Wire page. (Lots of good reading there too.) I wouldn't go to 12AWG unnecessarily, it doesn't make any difference electrically and just makes it more of a pain to pull through the wall.

The importance of wire is often overstated and is something that fellas spend far too much mental energy agonising over at times. It really doesn't/cannot make a hell of a lot of difference in the whole scheme of things. Just get good solid, economical wire of no more than the gauge you really need from a reputable vendor, install it and forget about it, forever.

Bi-wiring doesn't make any difference to the sound unless your using grossly undersized wire in the first place. All bi-wiring does is increase the effective gauge of the wire and in, and of itself, cannot make any real difference to sound.

What do you guys believe regarding Bi-wiring versus regular wiring?? I am not talking about bi-amping but simply the wiring of the speakers. ANy benefit over going 12 AWG regular wiring????

The only benefit I can think of is having a spare run in the wall in the event of future expansion plans, or if for some reason you have a breakage or fault in a run.

Regarding the HSU Sub options, I think I have narrowed it for sure to these two. Now if the back order is not a significant issue, would you guys see a benefit in going with the VTF-15H MK2
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-15hmk2.html which is only $100.00 more than the VTF-3 MK5 HP
http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3mk5HP.html ??

Tough call. Based on their CEA 2010 averages the 15H MK2 plays about 1dB louder across the range. This is theoretically barely audible and only at the upper limit of their performance. The 15H MK2's advantage is at 16Hz in single port mode where it can play about 3dB louder (if required). Seeing as your looking to duals in the future anyway , I'd pocket the $100 and go with the 3 MK5HP for the smaller form factor (mainly depth) which will make duals easier to accommodate in your space.

Edit: Yep, I like Shady's advice to compare at Hsu. My guess is that you (and the room) will cop a good pummelling before you can pick a difference.

 

[KEW]

Been busy, but ShadyJ and Giegar have it covered,

I think you may be surprised with the grip sheet. Assuming the "clamp" mount can put decent pressure. In any case it does not cost much, will provide some padding for the speakers, and can't hurt to use in concert with the other means of making sure the mounts don't fail.

My understanding is the in-wall wiring has a higher heat rating and it won't cost that much. Also it is white so it may look better if you use it to go to the speakers (assuming some is visible).

Giegar's link to the speaker wire size is good info. Also, 14 Gauge is easier if you want to turn a tighter corner, which may come in handy as you snake it through the bracket if you want to keep it hid. My main objective was that you don't believe you need to buy $10+ per foot speaker wire that has some mystical process in its manufacture.

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Thanks Giegar for the kind words. This stuff was a foreign language to me when I started here last week!!!! Now thanks to this place and following up on all the advice here, I feel VERY informed about a lot of things and it just stokes more and more questions.

I'm really fortunate to live so close to the places I am going to buy from so that I can demo things and report my experiences to you guys. Since the smaller companies are really mostly word or mouth like with Ascend, the more info that can be spread in the forums the better for everyone!!

I hope I can try to help like I've been helped eventually

Thanks also for that wire calculator. I have 16 AWG prewired (CRAP----) and am likely going to be rewiring with the fatter in wall stuff I will be actually very interested to hear what Dave F says at Ascend as to what AWG to get. I am leaning toward that 12 but may just default to Dave's advice. I concur that the smaller gauge 14 would certainly be easier to pull. I wish the 16 wasn't so far below what will do best with what I'm doing. If Dave says he wouldn't rewire, I won't (not likely). My current 16 AWG wiring was done in 2008 and has never been used.......

Giegar and ShadyJ, great advice on the subs. I have been wondering how these HSUs actually compared being that the prices are oddly so close. As you guys have noted, Rythmik's have quite the jumps between models. I will definitely be DEMOing everything I can at Ascend and Hsu and tell you guys my novice impressions of both. Giegar's advice to "pocket the $100 and go with the 3MK5HP" is well received as I have been constantly expanding my budget and normally would favor dropping the extra hundred. BUT it looks as if the performance difference is relatively negligible and the 15H MK2 is $100 more AAAANNNNDDD its currently Back Ordered. So I'm thinking the 3MK5HP, it shall be.

QUESTION:

1.) SO, regarding adding a second sub .... If I were to do so in the next year or two, and HSU still is making the 3MK5HP, would that be the sub to go ahead and get as the second to balance the sub and better saturate the cubic space with bass?? I mean, that size times 2 will fill the room you think??

 

[Clay Bertrand]

KEW,

Life gets in the way of Forum posting for all of us from time to time...... Lol

Sorry I didn't see your post!! Yeah I hear ya and I was wondering about MONSTER SCAM WIRE and all the other ones. The purest copper at the right gauge is what's important. The in-wall is just a little bonus. I don't have in-wall currently but if I'm gonna have to rewire, as my German grandfather says, "Any job worth doing is worth doing right!" (I'm sure many people say this). I actually have to run the left rear as a partial EXTERIOR run so I will be looking for a special small length just for that run of whatever AWG. I was saying, I'm gonna go with what Ascend recommends when I see them Wed.

On the grip material, I was thinking the same thing. Can only help cradle them babies in the clamp mount. I think your term "IN CONCERT" (PUNNY!!) is right on for how the mount will go: Multiple means of holding them in place.

 

[Clay Bertrand]

Dang, sorry to have so many lengthy questions for you guys!!!!!!!!

I gotta ask you all about center speaker placement and here is the situation:

My main listening/viewing position is going to have the following measurements from each of the 4 Front and Rear HT speakers. Measurements taken from the each speaker location to the main listening/viewing position (I know, these are not ideal but its what I got):

Left front: 14'
Left rear: 13'
Right front: 19.5'
Right rear: 16.5'

Two fronts will be about 25' apart
Two rears will be about 23' apart
TV Center is 8.75' from Left Front Speaker and 16.25' from Right Front Speaker



QUESTIONS:

Where to Mount 340 Center Speaker??? Regarding the placement of a 21" wide Ascend 340C Center speaker where would you guys mount this considering the above measurements and the fact that the other 4 speakers will all be wall mounted about 7-8 feet off the ground?? What sucks is that I know that either the speaker will look to be centered with the two fronts, and look OFF CENTER with the TV, OR it will be centered with the TV and look OFF CENTER compared to the fronts. So either way symmetry will not be the end look. Who cares about looks!?!!?!?!?! What option will give the best SOUND all things considered???

Option 1: MOUNT ABOVE TV AT ABOUT SAME HEIGHT AS OTHER SPEAKERS (7-8' up)---TRY TO CENTER IT BETWEEN THE TWO FRONTS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE AT THIS HEIGHT. (TRULY centered is impossible as I have a staircase going up that wall that messes the whole thing up!). BEST CASE SCENARIO HERE is the Center point of the 21" 340C center speaker will be 8.75' from the Left front speaker, 16.25' from the Right front and 10' from the Main listening/viewing position. That is the most centered with the two fronts that I can manage at the 7-8' height

Option 2: MOUNT ABOVE TV AT ABOUT SAME HEIGHT AS OTHER SPEAKERS BUT CENTER IT WITH THE TV & THE MAIN LISTENING/VIEWING POSITION. This option would place the Center point of the 340 7.4' from the Left front speaker and 17.6' from the Right front. It would be to the left of Option 1 by rounghly 16".

Option 3: MOUNT AT EAR LEVEL CENTERED WITH TWO FRONTS. This can be done no problem and the Center 340 would be at ear level. It may look strange but if the component center is aligned with the speaker it could work. Is this advisable?? I.E. With the other speakers up at 8 feet of the ground, would it be BETTER to have the Center up that high too or better to have it lower at ear level??

Option 4: MOUNT AT EAR LEVEL CENTERED WITH TV AND MAIN LISTENING/VIEWING POSITION. This can also be done easily. Same question about height variance between all other speakers and the Center: Advisable or No?

What would you guys do if you had this situation?? These are my only options and I want as many knowledgeable people's opinions as I can get!!

Thanks to all you guys offering your advice!!!

 

[shadyJ]

1.) SO, regarding adding a second sub .... If I were to do so in the next year or two, and HSU still is making the 3MK5HP, would that be the sub to go ahead and get as the second to balance the sub and better saturate the cubic space with bass?? I mean, that size times 2 will fill the room you think??

Certainly Hsu will still be making them a year or two down the road, no need to worry about that. And yes, you will be wanting another VTF3 mk5 to match the one you have shoudl you go the multiple sub route.

One more note about the Videosecu/Pinpoint/B-tech mounts: unless the angle is very steep, the side-clamping grips will hold. The way the clamps work, they can exert a good amount of pressure. The Videosecus also come with a slot for a safety strap if you need further hold, and they all have screw holes in the clamps in case you want a more secure hold, however I would not want to drill into some Sierras. On the other hand, I do not think the clamps will be strong enough for a top heavy speaker like the CMT-340.

 

[Ty Wayne]

Yes Clay, I've done quite a bit of reading and searching for answers on mounting my 170's. And yes, I found some good info on Ascends forum too. I also started a thread over in the other forum here. Swerd gave me some really good information on those 1/4 x 20 inserts and how they work. In the end, I decided to just go ahead with the side clamping mounts. If I were needing to put quite a bit of tilt on my speakers, then I probably wouldn't feel as comfortable with the side clamping mounts. Also, the 170's Im mounting are a great deal smaller than the 340's you are wanting to mount.

Here is the thread where Swerd helped me out and explained the inserts:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/coytech-side-clamping-wall-mount.93258/