My twin RSS315HF-4 build.

[MrBoat]

What can I say? Tried the RSS315HF-4 in a 2 cu. ft sealed and was in instant like with this driver. Meanwhile, I built a pair of Peerless 830667 8" SLS subs and got to try one, and then two, and then switch between duals and a single and I was instantly compelled to give the Dayton RSS the same advantage. Anyway, the RSS recently went on sale for $20 off and I got it within minutes of the sale ending.

I am going to make these match the finish scheme on my Fusion Tempests. I am building the enclosures from domestic birch ply that is noticeably heavier (and nicer/thicker face veneers) than the Baltic and home center versions. Far as I'm concerned, they can take that 5' X 5' Baltic scalp job and stick it where the sun doesn't shine.

Made some sawdust today. Got all the main panels out and rabbeted and used a 3/8" deep rabbet this time to further mitigate the edge grains. It ends up right in the center of the center ply. Going to use an epoxy treated MDF baffle (for paint) with the inner secondary baffle in plywood. With the bracing and driver, the internal volume ends up just over 2 cu. ft. These were sizes that fit between furniture so that I can at least stow them out of the way if I need to.

Nothing but the most precise tooling from me.

All sides, tops, and bottoms. Also have the front and rears close but I like to final cut those after the cases are built/squared. Usually I cut them as soon as I assemble the main cases and use those blanks to square the cabinet while the glue dries.

I thought about rabbeting the window braces in but it seems kind of redundant when using brads, glue and clamps. I would likely just tab them in with some epoxy/cabosil fillets at most and call it done.

ETA: I should say that in all honesty, these little Peerless 8" I just built are kicking ass on their own. I really do dig that little system a lot.

 

[KEW]

Nice to see a real woodworker's router table for a change!
Some of the new "gentrified" stuff is $$$$o over the top (not that I don't have my share).
Seeing your table reminded me of one of my favorite sources for inexpensive ways to do things (and general education) using the router without sacrificing anything - Pat Warner. Although he has more complex ones, he also encouraged using a sheet of mdf with a clamped board as a simple and effective router table as you have done!
For anyone doing DIY on a budget wanting to get full use out of their router, his books are well worth the cost, but start with his website since it is free!
Whoops! Sad to say, he passed away July of 2017. His website is down, However, it does appear to be available and complete through this archive link. Don't know how long this will be around, but here it is:

https://web.archive.org/web/20170706081304/http://patwarner.com:80/

To use this site, scroll down until you see "Understanding Routing" on the left edge. These are the links to free education of getting the most out of your router. When I first discovered him, these pages were at the top and his products were below (and not so many), IIRC.

The links above "Understanding Routing" are mostly for products he sold. He had a CNC router and would mill precise fixtures (mostly out of clear acrylic) for you to use in more complex implementations. I doubt you can still buy these since he has passed. It does not seem he sold or otherwise passed on his business.

His books:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=stripbooks&field-keywords=pat+warner

Sorry to go OT, but I wanted to share the knowledge Pat Warner made available through his books (and website) I feel like much of his knowledge is likely to be lost as the mechanically inclined youth of today does not have an easy route of exposure to such. I suspect Mr Boat has come by much of this through experience, but fear it will pass as our generation does.
On the other hand, as 3D printers and CNC router/mills become more common, maybe this knowledge does indeed become obsolete?!

 

[MrBoat]

Nice to see a real woodworker's router table for a change!
Some of the new "gentrified" stuff is $$$$o over the top (not that I don't have my share).
Seeing your table reminded me of one of my favorite sources for inexpensive ways to do things (and general education) using the router without sacrificing anything - Pat Warner. Although he has more complex ones, he also encouraged using a sheet of mdf with a clamped board as a simple and effective router table as you have done!
For anyone doing DIY on a budget wanting to get full use out of their router, his books are well worth the cost, but start with his website since it is free!
Whoops! Sad to say, he passed away July of 2017. His website is down, However, it does appear to be available and complete through this archive link. Don't know how long this will be around, but here it is:

https://web.archive.org/web/20170706081304/http://patwarner.com:80/

To use this site, scroll down until you see "Understanding Routing" on the left edge. These are the links to free education of getting the most out of your router. When I first discovered him, these pages were at the top and his products were below (and not so many), IIRC.

The links above "Understanding Routing" are mostly for products he sold. He had a CNC router and would mill precise fixtures (mostly out of clear acrylic) for you to use in more complex implementations. I doubt you can still buy these since he has passed. It does not seem he sold or otherwise passed on his business.

His books:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=stripbooks&field-keywords=pat+warner

Sorry to go OT, but I wanted to share the knowledge Pat Warner made available through his books (and website) I feel like much of his knowledge is likely to be lost as the mechanically inclined youth of today does not have an easy route of exposure to such. I suspect Mr Boat has come by much of this through experience, but fear it will pass as our generation does.
On the other hand, as 3D printers and CNC router/mills become more common, maybe this knowledge does indeed become obsolete?!

There's no such thing as OT on my threads. That type of regulation is for the obsessive types. We're here to talk down every relative avenue within a topic and beyond. I enjoy side information like you added. Also, you took some time with the post. I appreciate that.

My last router table was a cabinet door from a high end yacht, an overage, given to me by a Czech cabinet maker I used to work with. It had a teak trim around the perimeter with an ivory colored Formica center. When I was building my boat, some crackhead broke in and stole it for the router attached to it and the rest of my power tools.

We've always made our own jigs and accessories. The 1" x 2" extrusion in the other photo is the straightedge for my circ. saw. I had a few hours to burn yesterday and the sun was out so it was a good afternoon project.

ETA: Funny now with all the available tech, I have to tell the youngsters to "Google it."

 

[MrBoat]

A bit of progress. I like the 3/8" rabbets better. The glue squeeze out/in works neater for one. Also, this plywood is sweet and so very close to a full 3/4". Also, this time around I used a 40 tooth finish blade on my circ saw. It was slower going than a combo blade but less splintering of the face veneers.

 

[MrBoat]

I did manage to get braces cut and installed. Grandkids were climbing allover so it was hard to get much done. Got rear cover and inner baffle fit as well. I was so used to skimpy metric equivalents that I took it for granted to set the router table just to .75". There was barely enough to sand off so I relieved the panels a touch to sink them slightly past the edges so that I can sand them flush.

Added simple strong backs to the rear panels for stiffeners. They tie into the sides as well. Used brads and clamps. I will have a cross tie from front to rear as well. The cabinets are already pretty stout.

Everything is dead nuts square on the diagonal measurements and all the parts are interchangeable from onne cabinet to the next. Not bad for a circular saw and straightedge method. I cheated and cut the braces on the band saw and sanded and rounded them over with a 1/4" round over bit on the router table.

I don't know why the cabinet looks crowned on it's edge in the photo. It made me run out there and check when I saw it. I must have been shaky on the click.

 

[MrBoat]

This photo gives away the band saw hack. It still belt and suspenders it's way to a strong joint. I can always fit a scab across the joint but it's so short sided it really is overkill anyway.

Everything is actually fitting together pretty nice. Just is enough room for glue. The inner braces, I rounded them over slightly so that I could glue right next to the brace and pull it into place without squeegee'ng all the glue out. I did go back and squeeze more glue to fill the holidays. What looks like a gap there is where I rounded edges so there was room for glue.

 

[MrBoat]

I did manage to get the baffles routed today. I had tacked the outer baffle, which is MDF, onto the inner plywood baffle with brads so as to keep everything matched. I used the flush trim bit and sanded everything flush so my driver centers were exact. Inner baffle is fully recessed flush in rabbets. Outer baffle is exposed for .75" round-overs.

You can see where I am separating the outer baffle to carry the driver cut out through. One pass from the driver cutout and the center pilot hole are transferred to the inner baffle. This is all ABC stuff but they are coming out pretty tidy.

Could have had them finished enough to play these but my grandkids were "helping" me today.

 

[panteragstk]

Nice work as usual. Your threads make me feel lazy....I need to get to work.

I do love your router table. I'll go ahead and build one myself. Needed one a few times and almost purchased one,but your idea is much better.

 

[MrBoat]

Nice work as usual. Your threads make me feel lazy....I need to get to work.

I do love your router table. I'll go ahead and build one myself. Needed one a few times and almost purchased one,but your idea is much better.

Keeps me outdoors on weekends and the cobwebs off the tools.

I've always meant to get a fancier table but these work as well for what I need it for. There is plywood strong backs stood on edge under the router table so it's good and flat and doesn't flex under pressure.

After the fact, it makes a god little work table as well for soldering and such.

 

[MrBoat]

I did end up putting little plywood scabs where I had cut through the brace. It didn't need it but this removes all doubt.

The cabinets are actually quite solid even before the baffles are installed.

 

[MrBoat]

The baffle cutouts worked well. I am waiting on a new 3/4" roundover bit. My old one had a chipped carbide tip so I ordered a new one. Largest HD had was a 1/2" and I already have a 5/8" but really wanted 3/4" on these. I wasn't going to be able to really get to it before the weekend anyway.

 

[MrBoat]

I did manage to get the round-overs on it. Will apply the deep penetrating epoxy sealer this evening. Which amounts to 2 part clear epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol to a water thin consistency. First few coats are thin and then subsequently thicken and build as the alcohol evaporates. This epoxy has about a 6 hr setup time and dries very hard. Between the fibrous makeup of MDF, the deep (approx. 3-4mm) penetrating ability of the epoxy, this ends up forming a very resilient surface. Great for a sanding sealer, paint, and great against wear and effects of climate over time.

 

[MrBoat]

Kinda slow going but I wasn't in a hurry since I have other subs that work well. Was going to coat these over the weekend but it rained all day Sunday and I didn't want to seal excess humidity in the MDF. Then the humidity dropped which was great for this process.

Thinned with denatured alcohol a watery consistency. I do let the epoxy/hardener cross link for about 15 mins before thinning. It will soak up about 6 or more, near continuous applications of this stuff. Especially the edges. As the alcohol evaporates and the epoxy returns to it's normal viscosity, we get a full seal coat.Any fuzz or mushy corners from dropped sheets etc, are locked down.

Can see here where the MDF is drinking this stuff up. It goes around 3/16" deep on the flat areas, to a 1/4" or more on the edges/cutaways.

With part of what resin is left, I mix it with fumed silica powder and fill all my brad holes and whatever little touchups there may be.

 

[MrBoat]

Here I had primed this with a thinned epoxy. The alcohol had evaporated before this had cured, being it took like 6 hrs or so. I also filled the brad holes while it was wet. I degloss the epoxy and initially flatten off any orange peel with the RO sander, carefully. The depth of the orange peel in this case, ends up being the level surface indicator and, when to stop. Can see the little filler spots at the corner.

Then it's onto the longboard. This is my most used prep tool. This is how you straighten all the lines and truly flatten a surface. Other names for it are; "Misery whip, long file or, tattle board." "Tattle board," for it's ability to expose crooked lines or uneven spots or otherwise blatant hack work. In this instance, I am 'hacking' a little but then correcting it with this tool. At least to a slightly more than acceptable level for matte black/light orange peel (enamel spray bomb) surface.

Here I straighten up this transition and remove any faceting of the round by the power sanding op. It involves cleaning the line between the flat and the round, while following the round all the way to the bottom in a diagonal sweep. Then coming at it from the opposite direction leaving a very slight crosshatch. Finally I will rub it all out a bit with some 320 on a block for the flats and a flex pad for the rounds just to remove the heaviest sand scratches.

 

[MrBoat]

Still at it. Pre-cut the veneer for Saturday and have it flattening a bit. Managed to get 3 out of 4 visible corners continuous grain matched on the wraps. 4th corner, I was able to find another place in the sheet that matched on the most visible grain in 4 places so it looks believable, or that I tried, anyway.

I have enough veneer to actually do the backs and bottoms but I always end up not caring about that detail. Last time, it was this thinking (or eschewing the OCD) that is the reason I have enough veneer to do these. Besides, the fronts are to be painted.

Anyhow, I cannot permanently attach the front baffles until this is done. These will all be a match to my Fusion Tempest speakers. Thanks to Audioholics and their perpetuation of dual subs, I get to make two more matching grilles for these instead of one.

 

[lsiberian]

I'm excited to see how the veneering goes.

 

[MrBoat]

Veneer is on and trimmed. I typically let contact cement dry overnight at least, before final flush sanding the corner laps. Reason being is because contact cement shrinks and tightens further over time. I do use the flush trimmer in the router but those still require further flush sanding and perhaps, a micro chamfer. Just enough so that the corners don't become snags over time.

Here I keep the adhesive tray and roller covered with cling wrap between ops. Plywood, MDF and wood backed veneer need at least, 1.5 coats of adhesive. The first to seal the thirsty wood and the second for a bond coat. You can tell you are ok if the bond coat hazes over equally on the surface.

I always start the full roller on all four edges and then cross roll it. You get consistent at this if you figure out about how thirsty the particular wood you are using actually is. Birch isn't so bad but MDF will sure drink it up.

Everything ready. Just waiting for the adhesive to flash off.

Got some pretty good grain matches throughout.

 

[MrBoat]

Domestic (North American) birch is actually pretty in it's own right. I could have lived with a clear version of this scheme.

And here's the "B" side. I was tempted to just use this side out and leave it.

A light once over with some 120 grit to get rid of any possible initial snags, being I have to flip-flop these around a bit before I put any finish on.

 

[MrBoat]

Here's how the added thickness from the veneer is treated with regard to fit of the baffle. I could have left the baffle oversize and sanded flush to the veneer before round-over but I think this makes for a neater appearance and a fine, factory fit. Pinstripe this joint with masking tape all the way around and fill the stripe and joint with epoxy thickened with cabosil. This also essentially super adheres/seals this joint. The thickness of the masking tape leaves it just proud enough to represent a joint, albeit a very well fitted one. At least when mixing a painted part with a veneered one, or whatever the contrast might consist of. Leaves an essence of an ogee into the round.

While I was at it, I installed the 10-32 barbed inserts and dry fit the rubber feet. All I have left to do is finish the veneer, install/paint front baffle, terminal plate and stuffing.

 

[MrBoat]

I am pleased with the way the cherry is finishing out. Using wiping varnish over one coat of thinned, unwaxed shellac. This cherry has some decent places of interest with regard to figure. Grain came out decent.