My DIY dilemma

[Audiodreamer II]

Hello all!
And Happy New Year!
About a decade ago I DIY'ed a pair of subs. I used WinIsd for modeling the enclosure. (lack of knowledge) I had all of the driver parameters which who knows where to find now. Probably like an important receipt it got circular filed. Anyway

If The driver has nothing to do with enclosure tuning (Fb) then, is having all of that data just to see how a given driver would preform in a given enclosure?

After searching this forum, I stumbled across https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#porsq.

I have vented enclosures with slot ports. I was told on another forum something.... Before I go there, back to the "Fb".

Just looking to gain a little wisdom.

Mike

 

[Eppie]

You have it backwards. The driver determines the enclosure. That's why you use WinISD to model the enclosure from the driver specs. If you post the make and model someone here may be able to find the specs again if you need them.

I would only look on car audio sites if you are designing a box to be used in a car. Cars behave very differently due to the small size of the space. For home subwoofers, stick to home audio calculators and forums and never use a car audio driver for a home audio sub.

 

[Audiodreamer II]

You have it backwards. The driver determines the enclosure. That's why you use WinISD to model the enclosure from the driver specs. If you post the make and model someone here may be able to find the specs again if you need them.

I would only look on car audio sites if you are designing a box to be used in a car. Cars behave very differently due to the small size of the space. For home subwoofers, stick to home audio calculators and forums and never use a car audio driver for a home audio sub.

Well that is what I was thinking. I was sharing this with another forum and was told that Fb was Fb without regard to the driver. That is not how I remembered it being. I used the Stereo Integrity Ht 15 d4. This was 2014. I can find all kinds of info about the 18", but a hard time for the 15.

 

[Audiodreamer II]

A little about the build. I thought I was doing okay with the modeling. I was back and forth with individuals on HTS. Anyway I modeled the sub to 17Hz. Whether that was a good thing or not I really don't know. My primary goal was for HT use. They have made the walls rattle. But these drivers are supposed to have an xmax around 23mm. I don't think I have ever seen them move that much, and SPL IMO has not been overwhelming. IDK, maybe at the frequency its not as much about the volume as it is the LFE.

The enclosures are after displacement of bracing and the driver (considering the displacement of the 15 d2) is right at 7.7 cu ft. They have a slot port that is 1.75"x 17.375" x 37.375". When modeling everything, if recall seemed to look okay. Is there something not right with port dimensions? Should it have been taller and other dimensions changed? I started out using a Behringer EP4000 for my amp, in bridged mode, paralleled the subs.

If in fact all of that worked like it was designed then, it has not really worked for me. If I could it would serve both for music and HT. My mains are far from where I would like them, I am missing a lot of bass.

I may have a multiplicity of issues 1) I need better mains than the Def Tech BP6 2) I need better amplification for subs, 3) I need a completely different subs or an enclosure redesign, 4) a combination of all of the above.

The mains for another thread

I see what you say now, I did not register with me that 12 volts was for auto. I thought this forum was geared more towards the HT side of audio, so that didn't click.

I appreciate anyone that takes the time to read my novel and any advice, or info that you may have.

Edit: I do intend to run REW. If anyone can tell me is using JAVA fine or do I need ASIO4ALL?

 

[Tankini]

OP, plug away!! Lol. reread Eppie post again.