multiple subwoofers

W

WoodieB

Audioholic Intern
Since I have a spare subwoofer sitting around, I was thinking about getting a "y" adapter to split the LFE signal from my receiver and run 2 subwoofers.

Any thoughts or advice on this?
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
There is no problem splitting the LFE with a Y adapter, but integrating two subs can be even more difficult than getting one calibrated properly.
 
jeffsg4mac

jeffsg4mac

Republican Poster Boy
Sorry but I have to disagree with that last post. Getting two subs calibrated is no more difficult than getting one. In-fact, in most cases it will be easier because peaks in the room are often tamed with two subs making it that much easier to flatten out the room response. That is exactly what happened in my case. I was able to lower the boost and cut range on my eq to +-6db instead of +-12db with one sub.
 
Rob Babcock

Rob Babcock

Moderator
It can be easier or harder, depending upon how you do it. If you put both subs in the same spot, then two is not harder than one. Of course, some of the advantages of two subs to spread the nulls and peaks out is lost. If you put each sub in a separate location you make more work for yourself, as they'll interact to a degree, but you can ultimately get a very smooth response.
 
W

WoodieB

Audioholic Intern
Thanks for the replies. Since I already have the second sub, the only cost will be a cable & y adapter. Hopefully gettting it to integrate will be easier since I've just ordered about 15 minitraps and microtraps from www.realtraps.com
My theater/listening room is really problematic, but the locations of the speakers and furniture are pretty much fixed by the room design. I've been wanting to try to improve the acoustics for a long time, and finally am going to do it.
 

plhart

Audioholic
WoodieB said:
Thanks for the replies. Since I already have the second sub, the only cost will be a cable & y adapter. Hopefully gettting it to integrate will be easier since I've just ordered about 15 minitraps and microtraps from www.realtraps.com
My theater/listening room is really problematic, but the locations of the speakers and furniture are pretty much fixed by the room design. I've been wanting to try to improve the acoustics for a long time, and finally am going to do it.
Realtraps will do essentially nothing in the bass region. We suggest reading four of the articles we've published on professional system set-up and room acoustics as taught by the best in the business from CEDIA>>


http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/roomacoustics/hometheatercalibration.php

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/roomacoustics/Acoustics101THX.php

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/roomacoustics/roomacoustictreatments.php

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/roomacoustics/RoomIsolationNoiseControl.php

In this Audyssey article Tom Holman (Mr. THX) relates how with even 12" thickness of damping material the calculations for placement of the absorptive material seldom lived up to the calculated expectations.

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/AudysseyMultEQ.php

The simple and best answer for bass control is with the use of a 1/12 th octave or better, single-band parametric equalizer. There are manual and automatic versions available built into a handfull of subwoofers. To my knowledge there is only a single outboard unit available.

Note that the EQ described above will give you flat response bass, it will tame room modes. After you have the ability to achieve flat bass with a single sub you need to understand what happens when you put a second subwoofer into the same room. You can either ameliorate or exacerbate problems if you do not now have the capability to adjust the phase response of a second or more subs and know how to measure what you're doing.

This is a complete new topic which we plan to cover in the near future. Hope this helps...
 
W

WoodieB

Audioholic Intern
Jeff & Pat,

Thanks for the great links. I have read all of the excellent acoustics articles you listed, and I think my room treatment falls very well in line with the recommendations by the pros. I am not going to do any electronic equalizing, but am treating all first reflection points on walls and ceilings with absorbtive panels, in this case Realtraps microtraps. I have located my first reflection points via the mirror method. In addition, I am placing minitraps in 4 wall/ceiling junctions, as well as in a wall/wall corner and the wall/wall/ceiling junction. Since the minitraps are 3 1/4" thick, and span the corners, they have over 1' of airspace behind them which contributes to low frequency absorbtion. According to their spec sheet, they are much more effective than foam in this application. http://www.realtraps.com/data.htm

Pat, you are obviously an expert. I would be interested to hear your opinion of realtraps products, compared to other available acoustic treatments such as foam, etc. In one of the links you listed, the recommendation for apportioning your home theater budget was 20% components, 40% speakers, and 40% acoustic treatment. Since I already have my components & speakers in place, I'm now going for the acoustic treatment now. I believe Realtraps to be a solid, snake-oil free source for acoustic treatment products.

Thanks,

Woodie B.

(this isn't an advertisement or endorsement for Realtraps, I have not received my order yet. I will see when they are installed if they perform as advertised)
 

plhart

Audioholic
I covered the RealTraps presentation which was part of DTS' "Understanding Surround Production" seminar at the 117th AES Convention last year. It is here>>

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/surroundsoundproduction.php

Re: effectiveness of foam vs. effectiveness of fiberglass. If you are comparing a specific density-pack of fiberglass (usually in pounds per cubic foot) to an "equivalent" piece of open cell foam (usually speced as both a density and/or pores per cubic inch) you will find that they are very close comparison-wise as far as absorption coeffiecient. On several occasions I've been able to test absorptive materials within a "controlled environment", the inside of a speaker cabinet. And what I can tell you is that yes, 1" fiberglass of a density used in speaker production will test very slightly "better" (by a couple of dB only) at certain frequencies within a specific cabinet. This difference is very difficult, if not impossible to hear. The "comparisons" I see
on the site you mention do not detail what the compostion of their product is vs. what the foam is from one specific online company to whom they compare themselves. No specs! I don't buy it.

Regarding corner or wall junction "bass traps". Note that in CEDIA seminar 3 article NO absorptive material is is placed in these corner or wall junction locations in the extensively illustrated and detailed room given at the end of the article. This is because the only place you want your expensive "passive room correction" to makes any difference is AT THE LISTENING LOCATION.

If you fix the position of the listening position and fix the position of the subwoofer(s) then yes you may get some attenuation by putting a equivalent of 12" or more of fiberglass in a corner. You WILL hear a difference. The question is will you be lucky and will you get 6dB of attenuation versus only 2 or 3dB. I wouldn't bet on it.

With 1/12 octave or better electronic single-band parameter equalization you will have a very predictable result AT YOUR LISTENING POSITION, along with the benefit of being able to place (or even hide) the subwoofer(s) more easily.
 
Rob Babcock

Rob Babcock

Moderator
WoodieB, please do report back on what you think of the RealTraps. I've not yet tried them, but Ethan is a regular over at AC, and he's really a breath of fresh air. I love that he really explains how sound works and isn't just trying to push a product. Unlike so many others, he doesn't try to claim his products can overrule the laws of physics, either. ;) He gives out lots of his "recipes" for free and has said for years he'd rather tell you how to build your own even though he won't make any money that see a person go without room treatment. He's a classy guy.
 
Rob Babcock

Rob Babcock

Moderator
The RealTraps have gotten excellent reviews, and I've seen the technical measurements that seem to show they're pretty effective, but I'd have to second PL Harts suggestion to apply some parametric EQ to your sub(s). There are at least two companies that make fairly affordable manual parametric EQs, and one that provides auto parametric EQ of the largest hump. I use a Behringer 1124 set up to provide three parametric bands. It made a huge difference, literally taking my sound to a whole new level. And it only cost $150.

Placing your subs together will make it a lot easier. You may eventually get better & smoother response by siting each sub in a different spot, but the problem is interaction: you can set one sub to get a flat response, then set the other sub to get a similarly flat response, but turn 'em both on together and their interaction will cause response peaks and valleys. It's like trying to count your socks while they're swirling in the dryer. ;) Not to say that it can't be done, it just takes more work.
 

plhart

Audioholic
Rob Babcock said:
Placing your subs together will make it a lot easier. You may eventually get better & smoother response by siting each sub in a different spot, but the problem is interaction: you can set one sub to get a flat response, then set the other sub to get a similarly flat response, but turn 'em both on together and their interaction will cause response peaks and valleys. It's like trying to count your socks while they're swirling in the dryer. ;) Not to say that it can't be done, it just takes more work.
You are correct about problems with "interaction" between two subs. This interaction is a cancelling effect usually but not always in the lower subwoofing frequency ranges caused by phase differences of each sub with respect to the listening position. If you're using a manual set-up single band parametric EQ like I do it is easy to compare single versus combined responses with your hand plotted graphs. If you have a continuouly variable phase control on your sub then this problem can be rectified.

The problem above is the reason I recommend symmetrical placement in the AV123 UFW-10 rsubwoofer eview published today. Get the two subs symmetrical and you don't have this problem.
 
W

WoodieB

Audioholic Intern
Thanks for all the great input, guys. I will indeed report back when I get the bass traps installed. Note that it's not just bass trapping that I'm treating the room for. I am also covering the first reflection points on the side walls and ceiling , and because my listening position is so close to the rear wall, the reflection points behind the listening position. My order is supposed to arrive on Feb 3rd, and I already have all of the hardware installed to hang the panels, so it shouldn't take me long to get an impression.

Rob, you're right that all of the reviews that I've been able to find have been very positive. Also, Realtraps offers a 30 day money back gaurentee. I also thought about Aurelex foam, but like the ease of installation, fire rating, and looks of the realtraps panels more. After I get the panels installed, then I'll go about trying to integrate the second subwoofer.

Cheers,

Woodie B.
 
B

bpape

Audioholic Chief
I would agree that getting 2 to work correctly in your room can be more difficult to accomplish. I would also agree that once you do, the beneifts can be trememdous - not so much from an output standpoint but moreso from a feeling of just a 'bass front' and a much smoother response at more seats in the room.

Doing each sub independently at first will get you good response from each. From there, you just have the extra step of making the cancellations and reinforcements work together within the space without negating the advantages. I guess it's really not harder as much as just taking more time and being more detail oriented.
 
Ethan Winer

Ethan Winer

Full Audioholic
Hi Pat,

> Realtraps will do essentially nothing in the bass region <

Yikes. :confused:

When mounted straddling the room corners our MiniTraps and MondoTraps are effective down to 40 Hz, as proven in the MiniTraps Demo Video on our web site.

> The simple and best answer for bass control is with the use of a 1/12 th octave or better, single-band parametric equalizer. <

EQ can definitely help some in the lowest two octaves, maybe even as high as 100 Hz. But EQ has many important shortcomings:

It can reduce the effects of modal peaks, but it's impossible for EQ to do much for nulls which are typically 25 dB or even deeper.

EQ can reduce peaks caused by room modes, but not peaks that are non-modal caused by simple acoustic interference. Non-modal peaks change frequency (as well as amplitude) based on position, so any correction you apply that makes the response better in one place will make it worse somewhere else in the room. Even a foot away.

EQ does nothing to reduce modal ringing, or lower the Q (bandwidth) of modal peaks, and these are at least as important as the raw low frequency response if not even more so.

--Ethan
 

plhart

Audioholic
"When mounted straddling the room corners our MiniTraps and MondoTraps are effective down to 40 Hz, as proven in the MiniTraps Demo Video on our web site."
Sorry, I saw the word MiniTrap and immediately imagined a 3.25" wide x 4' long tiny piece of cloth-covered fiberglass. My apologies. MiniTraps are huge! Installed as shown on your site, if I would have bothered to look, they will of course smooth bass.

"
EQ can definitely help some in the lowest two octaves, maybe even as high as 100 Hz. But EQ has many important shortcomings:"
The 1/20th octave, manual, single-band parametric EQs I've used have, in every circumstance, been able to have a positive, tunable effect up to 100Hz.

"It can reduce the effects of modal peaks, but it's impossible for EQ to do much for nulls which are typically 25 dB or even deeper."
In my experience with 1/20th octave-capable SBPEQs, EQing out a peak at one frequency almost always makes an adjacent null become less deep at the listening position.

"EQ can reduce peaks caused by room modes, but not peaks that are non-modal caused by simple acoustic interference. Non-modal peaks change frequency (as well as amplitude) based on position, so any correction you apply that makes the response better in one place will make it worse somewhere else in the room. Even a foot away."
This may be true but again, we stress "at the listening position". I have had instances such as you suggest wherein a significant other's position two feet away had a significant null. In that case I simply set up 2 SPL meters and averaged the single band EQ for the best result.

"EQ does nothing to reduce modal ringing, or lower the Q (bandwidth) of modal peaks, and these are at least as important as the raw low frequency response if not even more so."
I'm not sure what you mean by this last statement. The 1/20th octave SBPEQs I've used do exactly this. They measure the peak's frequency (Hz), height from nominal (dB) and width (Q) and take the peak out. This can be done with excellent precision. And that was the main point of my reply. Precision, leading to a known flat response at the listening position.

If you read the 4 CEDIA seminar series also mentioned in this thread you'll see that we stress the room (and by extension, passive room tuning) as being 50% of the sound heard from the speakers at the listening position. So I don't really think we're in disagreement except for my faux pax on the MiniTraps (Like jumbo shrimp, right? I get it.)
 
W

WoodieB

Audioholic Intern
now i've done it

Well, I guess blending 2 subs isn't going to be an issue. I got on a quest this morning looking at new subwoofers, including the well reviewed Rocket ufw-10's, and ended up ordering a SVS PC Ultra sub!!! Good thing I'm already divorced!!
This will be my first experience with SVS and with cylindrical subs, but I have a nice place for it where it will fit well. I also considered the PB12+2, but at 18x22x28, it seemed just a little too big for my space. My theater room is about 17x17 with an open hall on one side, but the space is made much smaller by a built in floor to ceiling oak cabinet/component cabinet/bookshelf, a large leather sectional sofa, etc. Anyone have one of the SVS cylindrical subs? Are you happy with it?

WoodieB
 
Ethan Winer

Ethan Winer

Full Audioholic
Pat,

> MiniTraps are huge! Installed as shown on your site, if I would have bothered to look, they will of course smooth bass. <

Not a problem. I figured the only way you would have said that about MiniTraps is simply by not knowing enough about them. :D

> The 1/20th octave, manual, single-band parametric EQs I've used have, in every circumstance, been able to have a positive, tunable effect up to 100Hz. <

Yes, at one specific location, anyway.

> In my experience with 1/20th octave-capable SBPEQs, EQing out a peak at one frequency almost always makes an adjacent null become less deep at the listening position. <

Sure, that would reduce the relative difference between a peak and its adjacent null. But the absolute null depth would stay the same.

> I'm not sure what you mean by this last statement ... They measure the peak's frequency (Hz), height from nominal (dB) and width (Q) and take the peak out. <

I'm not talking about matching the peak's Q with the equalizer's Q. Rather, I'm saying that bass traps can lower the inherent Q of the peak (widen its bandwidth) directly. The first ETF graph below shows the modal decay in a typical 16 x 11-1/2 x 8 foot room, and the second graph shows the same room after adding a bunch of our MondoTraps.




In the bottom graph you can see the two important changes good bass traps can do that EQ cannot. One is the bandwidth of the modes is widened, which means that individual bass notes will stick out less than other, adjacent notes. This solves the problem commonly known as "one note bass."

The other change is the large reduction in ringing time (the "mountains" come forward over time). Without traps, some bass notes ring out for as long as 1/3 of a second, so they muddy other subsequent bass notes. After adding bass traps the ringing time is cut in half or even less, except at the lowest mode which in this room is about 35 Hz. But even at 35 Hz there's a noticeable, if slight, improvement in bandwidth and decay time.

You'll also notice that the nulls are brought up considerably, which is yet another feature of bass traps that EQ cannot match.

Again, EQ can help to flatten the low frequency response, but it does nothing for modal bandwidth or decay time, both of which are at least as important as the raw LF response.

--Ethan
 

plhart

Audioholic
At The Listening Position

> The 1/20th octave, manual, single-band parametric EQs I've used have, in every circumstance, been able to have a positive, tunable effect up to 100Hz. <
Yes, at one specific location, anyway
Hold that thought. The basis of effective room tuning, as taught by Dr. Floyd Toole of Harman International, Tony Grimani, ex-THX and a veteran of over 150 high-end Home theaters and John Dahl of THX is that we are giving advice which solves the most-common, in-Home-Theater-environments single bass peak at the listening position.

We believe the four CEDIA seminars posted on our site so far support your points regarding passive room correction. (Our specific case in point regarding passive room correction is the top-view illustration of a suggested layout from CEDIA Seminar #3, found at the bottom of this post.)

Graphs which are helpful in explaining a point or issue are of course welcomed. Please be aware however that we at Audioholics would like the intent of such graphs to be as an aid in helping our readers understand both sides of the discussion from the viewpoint of a level playing field.

Specifically we would request any SPL vs. frequency graph conform to our format shown here:

http://www.audioholics.com/productreviews/loudspeakers/AV123RocketUFW-10Subwoofer8.php

The example above is our 20Hz to 500Hz x-axis, 40dB Y-axis scale which we use for subwoofer testing. We would also request that if a z-axis is to be included that it be labeled clearly for easy readability.

These posts are read by an audience with widely diverse familiarity in chart reading. So we feel that standardization is the only clear approach to making a fair comparison. For any future submissions we would require:

-A standard 40dB Y-axis scale. We have had loudspeaker manufacturers intimate that their products might look better on a 90dB or 100dB scale which would of course make the measured response look flatter. And we have published such graphs in the past. Since I've come on-board doing speaker reviews and room acoustics, however, we've set the scale to what I've always used in speaker design which is the 40dB scale. And that's where it will stay. Conversely, in our opinion, a 30dB y-axis scale tends to exaggerate a problem and does not present the facts on a level playing field. (I have trouble comparing varying scales and I believe others do too..)

-Regarding the X-axis. The bandwidth about which we're speaking is 20Hz - 100Hz. Please keep this bandwidth for any submissions on this thread.

-if using the Z-axis such as with the Hamming chart presented please annotate with numbers and hash marks so the scale is easier to read. It would also be helpful if a good portion of the left -to-right x-axis lines are eliminated because without segmented hash marks it's hard for anyone to get more than a general picture of what is trying to be portrayed.

Having said all that we can now reply to the submitted charts-

-There is no labeling on this chart designating where in the room this reading was taken.

-Referring to the three peaks within the 20Hz -100Hz bandwidth I can truthfully say that I've never measured, at the listening position, such a severe, triple-peak case in any room I've ever encountered.

-Nor have I seen such an example brought up in any of the five CEDIA seminars I attended last October which dealt with room acoustics.

-Dr. Floyd Toole of Harman International, Anthony Grimani, ex-THX and a veteran of over 150 high end installs and John Dahl of THX taught these classes and all three were unanimous in defining the vital task of passive room correction. That task, overall is to obtain a listening space with an RT60 of between .2 and .4 seconds through the full frequency bandwidth shown at the bottom of this thread (From CEDIA Seminar 3). It will be noted that below 200Hz the .4 reverberation time is allowed to rise quite substantially but it is at this juncture that the main criteria of this discussion, flat low bass response, reverts to our initial stipulation. "At The Listening Position".

-I have seen a chart such as this. It was for a sealed, reverberant room with nothing inside but hard surfaces. So from our stance these two charts are red herrings. Again, we've got three known acousticians teaching hundreds of CEDIA grads (and now our Audioholics readers) how, and to what point passive room correction is most effective. Let's move on...

-We now concentrate on the listening position or positions and are giving our readers what we feel is a much more incisive and effective method for dealing with low frequency anomalies. At this point, flat frequency response at the listening position becomes the matter of primary import. We believe and support Dr. Toole's assertion that single-band, parametric equalization, either manual or automatic is the most direct, cost effective and acoustically correct answer. This is the simplest of options because it is so definable by actually doing the calibration at the listening position.

A couple of last points>>

The brilliance of Floyd Toole is that he has the gift of making the confusing simple. One of his 400 slides says "The problem is standing waves, room resonances, room modes, eigenmodes, etc. These are all the same phenomenon."

Now try Googling "modal resonances" and see who's name comes up. I found all three of the acousticians who taught the CEDIA courses use the same terminanology. It is helpful to those who read these forums. Please respect this request.

Again, EQ can help to flatten the low frequency response, but it does nothing for modal bandwidth or decay time, both of which are at least as important as the raw LF response.
Flat Frequency response, at the listening position, is and always has been our primary concern. Given the amount of attention and our endorsement for the benefits of passive room correction, the supposed importance of model bandwidth or decay time in other areas of the room are no longer of import to us enjoying our music and film at the listening position.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
RLA

RLA

Audioholic Chief
Yikes!!!
After reading that I feel like a green horn :p We really do learn something new everyday ;) And here I thought that Dead front live End was enough :D
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top