Movin on up from 5.1 to 6.1 unplanned

[3db]

Right now my 5.1 system consists of PSB Image system of speakers with the Image 1Bs pulling surround duty. Well, I took a stroll during lunch and found myself in a used audio store.....some really nice vintage stuff in there. I spotted a lonely Image 1B sitting by itself on the shelf listed for $80. I thought I would take a stab at talking him down and managed to snag it for $50. I brought it home and tested it swapping it in for my left tower and it played fine. Now I have to figure out a way of mounting it thru a drop ceiling. The clearance of the floor joist to the bottom of the tile is about 11". I'm looking at this product to mount my speaker to it..

AM-25 - Pinpoint mounts

Because the column part of that mount is only 3 ", I have to rig something up bring it down to an inch of the top of the ceiling tile. That part is easy. I'm little more concerned as to where to attach the plate to the speaker. Once I got it figured it out, I'll have a 6.1 system... don't know how much difference it will make over 5.1 but it will be a fun exercise.

If anyone has other ideas about hanging it from the ceiling, please let me know. I'm open.

 

[j_garcia]

How about a shelf on the back wall (if you have a back wall)? Probably cheaper and simpler. I enjoyed my 6.1 setup while I had it, but I honestly didn't feel it was a dramatic improvement over 5.1; that was prior to Blu-ray though

 

[3db]

How about a shelf on the back wall (if you have a back wall)? Probably cheaper and simpler. I enjoyed my 6.1 setup while I had it, but I honestly didn't feel it was a dramatic improvement over 5.1; that was prior to Blu-ray though

I thought of the shelf on the back wall buts its another 15' away from listener position and in a more open area. I don't think the room correction can accomodate such a shift. I'd rather it closer to the surrounds.

 

[j_garcia]

My back wall was not too far behind, but it was all window, so i just stand mounted mine so that all 3 were at the same level.

I think B-tech or omnimount make some longer surround mounts similar to the one you posted that might work for you. *Just checked Parts Express and they have some as well, but the longer ones were kind of expensive.

 

[lsiberian]

I think stand mounts are the best solution because they allow placement away from boundaries, but that's not good for most living room setups.

You have some options out there and given it's weight you don't need a joist to mount it on. A toggle could easily hold the speaker up.

 

[3db]

I went down to Future Shop to see if they carried anything decent and I walked out out of there thinking as I suspected... nothing. Oh well, off to Home Depot. I went through the hardware aisles and stumbled across 3' and 4' lengths of 90 degree angled steel and flat steel pieces. I bought 2 of the flat and one section of angled steel and looked at this again. Several ideas came to mind..none of them complete yet . However, I did mange to come up with the idea of cutting 4 lengths of the angled steel, 2 of which would be 3/4 of the speakers depth that would fit along the speakers sides and the other 2 pieces would be 1.5 times the speakers depth to bolt them to the pieces that will be used to grip the sides of the speaker in a side clamping design. This would eliminate having to drill holes into the speaker cabinet itself. I also know that I will use a section of the angled piece to attach to the floor joist to hang the clamping affair too. I have to return to home depot to look at other brackets which may be curved and allow me to tilt the side clamping affair. The plans are coming slowly together.

 

[3db]

Re thought this design once more and finalized down to this one. It will take two 1/2" floor flanges, a 90 degree elbow, 1 18" long threaded 1/2" pipe , one 1/2" threaded stub, one speaker mount and a can of flat black paint.. One flange gets fastened to the bottom of a floor joist, the pipe gets screwed into that, then the elbow gets screwed onto the opposite end of the pipe, followed by the stub and the second flange. I will then either attach a speaker mount directly to the flange if possible or to a piece would that's attached to that 2nd flange. I should be able to do all of this for under $50.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Good for you.

I have a KEF 201/2 boxed in my closet because I'm too lazy to figure out a great way to mount them.

But one day, I'll go to 6.1 for fun too.

 

[brianedm]

Re thought this design once more and finalized down to this one. It will take two 1/2" floor flanges, a 90 degree elbow, 1 18" long threaded 1/2" pipe , one 1/2" threaded stub, one speaker mount and a can of flat black paint.. One flange gets fastened to the bottom of a floor joist, the pipe gets screwed into that, then the elbow gets screwed onto the opposite end of the pipe, followed by the stub and the second flange. I will then either attach a speaker mount directly to the flange if possible or to a piece would that's attached to that 2nd flange. I should be able to do all of this for under $50.

If you don't mind, could you post a picture when you're done? I'm quite curious how it'll look

 

[3db]

If you don't mind, could you post a picture when you're done? I'm quite curious how it'll look

Will do.

My wife is going to be so pissed when my to do list takes priority over hers.

 

[slipperybidness]

Will do.

My wife is going to be so pissed when my to do list takes priority over hers.

That's the way these things work. I have a dry-erase board and when my GF wants me to do something, I just tell her "put it on the list" and I'll get to it.

 

[3db]

Just a quick update...


I contacted a PSB dealer in my city and asked him where I could screw into the back of the Image 1B cabinet. He suggested removing the terminal post assembly from the back to take a look at where the crossover network was as I didn't want to screw into that. I took his advice and I found the crossover connected directly to the terminal assembly. That was a brilliant piece of engineering right there as it frees up the entire back for mounting a bracket. Color me impressed!! I also measured the thickness of the back cabinet to be 3/4" MDF and the cabinet itself was stuffed full with thick insulation.

I went digging thru my old spare parts and found an old wall mount speaker bracket rated for 11lbs. The Image IB is 12 lbs but this bracket should work since I'm attaching it to a metal flange and not through dry wall. I will try it out. I also returned the two flat pieces of 4' length steel and a 3' length of angle steel which but $39 bucks back into the account. I picked up two 1/2" flanges, an 18" length of 1/2" pipe threaded at the ends, a threaded right angle bend and a nipple all for $15. I need to pick up a can of flat black spray paint, wash the metal and paint the assembly.

 

[slipperybidness]

Just a quick update...


I contacted a PSB dealer in my city and asked him where I could screw into the back of the Image 1B cabinet. He suggested removing the terminal post assembly from the back to take a look at where the crossover network was as I didn't want to screw into that. I took his advice and I found the crossover connected directly to the terminal assembly. That was a brilliant piece of engineering right there as it frees up the entire back for mounting a bracket. Color me impressed!! I also measured the thickness of the back cabinet to be 3/4" MDF and the cabinet itself was stuffed full with thick insulation.

I went digging thru my old spare parts and found an old wall mount speaker bracket rated for 11lbs. The Image IB is 12 lbs but this bracket should work since I'm attaching it to a metal flange and not through dry wall. I will try it out. I also returned the two flat pieces of 4' length steel and a 3' length of angle steel which but $39 bucks back into the account. I picked up two 1/2" flanges, an 18" length of 1/2" pipe threaded at the ends, a threaded right angle bend and a nipple all for $15. I need to pick up a can of flat black spray paint, wash the metal and paint the assembly.

I would suspect that it is also a manufacturing decision (saves time and $), to make the crossovers and the terminals 1 sub-assembly.

 

[Jeff R.]

Not to completely change the subject....but I have contemplated going to 6.1. I already have the matching extra speaker.

How do you do it? My Onkyo 805 based on the description and terminals does 5.1 or 7.1.....Does the auddessy figure it out if I just hook up a single speaker to make the sixth and place it in the center?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[j_garcia]

Not to completely change the subject....but I have contemplated going to 6.1. I already have the matching extra speaker.

How do you do it? My Onkyo 805 based on the description and terminals does 5.1 or 7.1.....Does the auddessy figure it out if I just hook up a single speaker to make the sixth and place it in the center?

With the exception of a small number of true 7.1. movies, the majority are all actually 6.1 and the rears are playing the same thing so it didn't matter. I do believe most receivers will indicate if one or the other channel should be used or if it doesn't matter which.

 

[ahblaza]

With the exception of a small number of true 7.1. movies, the majority are all actually 6.1 and the rears are playing the same thing so it didn't matter. I do believe most receivers will indicate if one or the other channel should be used or if it doesn't matter which.

I believe Onkyo specifies using the left rear channel for a single rear speaker for most if not all of their receivers.

 

[3db]

I believe Onkyo specifies using the left rear channel for a single rear speaker for most if not all of their receivers.

Correct. I looked this up in my Yamaha manual and it shows the exact same thing, left rear channel.

I'm almost ready to hang my speaker from the joist. I slight design mod was required. The flange that was connecting to the speaker bracket had to be upsized to 3/4" from 1/2" so that I could mount the speaker bracket to it..(screw holes align with this one and they didn't with the 1/2 flange. I also had to employ a 3/4i" to 1/2" coupler so that I could continue using the rest of the setup. Paint the new h/w tonight, drill 4 pilot holes in the back of tehe speaker and connect the pivot speaker bracket to it tonight. All this plumbing to hang a speaker.

 

[ahblaza]

Correct. I looked this up in my Yamaha manual and it shows the exact same thing, left rear channel.

I'm almost ready to hang my speaker from the joist. I slight design mod was required. The flange that was connecting to the speaker bracket had to be upsized to 3/4" from 1/2" so that I could mount the speaker bracket to it..(screw holes align with this one and they didn't with the 1/2 flange. I also had to employ a 3/4i" to 1/2" coupler so that I could continue using the rest of the setup. Paint the new h/w tonight, drill 4 pilot holes in the back of tehe speaker and connect the pivot speaker bracket to it tonight. All this plumbing to hang a speaker.

Just be careful of leaks Curious to see the final results

 

[3db]

Some pics...almost near done...


The first pic is of the flange and the pipe hanging down. Notice that I didn't set the screws 180 degrees apart but only 90 degrees.That's because I want to run the speaker wire down the inside of the pipe. Setting the screws 180 degrees apart would have caused me to pinch the cable, something I didn't want to do. Its only 12 lbs so I'm not worried. I used 2" wood screws so attach the flange to the joist.

The 2nd picture is of the flange that will be used to hold a speaker bracket which which will allow me to pivot the speaker. I haven't attached the bracket yet.

The last picture (I apologize for them being so fuzzy) is to get you idea how far below the ceiling tiles the bracket will protrude.

 

[slipperybidness]

Some pics...almost near done...


The first pic is of the flange and the pipe hanging down. Notice that I didn't set the screws 180 degrees apart but only 90 degrees.That's because I want to run the speaker wire down the inside of the pipe. Setting the screws 180 degrees apart would have caused me to pinch the cable, something I didn't want to do. Its only 12 lbs so I'm not worried. I used 2" wood screws so attach the flange to the joist.

The 2nd picture is of the flange that will be used to hold a speaker bracket which which will allow me to pivot the speaker. I haven't attached the bracket yet.

The last picture (I apologize for them being so fuzzy) is to get you idea how far below the ceiling tiles the bracket will protrude.

Probably not what you were going for, but it is kind of an industrial look. I like it. If I you've ever been in a loft or condo that was built into an old warehouse, that would be the perfect aesthetic for speaker mounts in that situation.