Morduant short subwoofer ms339 no power

A

akasam

Audiophyte
I got this sub given to me it had no power at all apparently no light. But when I received it the green light came on however it went off and I have not been able to get it to come on again.

Sometimes it flickered on if the amp was moved around a bit.

I checked the fuses firstly but I knew they would be fine cause the green light came on originally so it can't be that. It all looks fine inside no burn marks. I can't see what it wrong at all.
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I got this sub given to me it had no power at all apparently no light. But when I received it the green light came on however it went off and I have not been able to get it to come on again.

Sometimes it flickered on if the amp was moved around a bit.

I checked the fuses firstly but I knew they would be fine cause the green light came on originally so it can't be that. It all looks fine inside no burn marks. I can't see what it wrong at all.
Apparently the auto standby switch can be a problem on those. Work the switch to and fro, and if you have some, spray it with a little contact cleaner. Leave the auto standby in the off position in case the auto on circuit is the problem.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
A green light alone isn't necessarily meaningful, but suspect your amp could be the issue. Can you get it to work if you bypass the auto-on switch?
 
A

akasam

Audiophyte
It doesnt matter what position the switch is in it does nothing its rare that I get a green light.

Also the seller said no power but I did at first so could be cable related maybe ?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
It doesnt matter what position the switch is in it does nothing its rare that I get a green light.

Also the seller said no power but I did at first so could be cable related maybe ?
More likely just an amp failure.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
A green light alone isn't necessarily meaningful, but suspect your amp could be the issue. Can you get it to work if you bypass the auto-on switch?
From the photograph, that amp is class D with a switching power supply. The power supply has failed. They are notoriously difficult to trouble shoot and very expensive to sort out. It is not worth it.

I can not even find a user manual and not even any published specs. I have found the odd review and it was not well thought of. It only has a 9" driver and as far as I can tell was part of some sort of glorified HTIB. It is a 17 year old sub, and subs have improved a lot since then. Apparently it did not produce much bass, according to many reviews. They are well known for the problem you describe.

The bottom line is that unit is junk and needs a fast track to the recycling center. It is not even worth fitting a generic plate amp to the unit.

The bottom line is that you had a boat anchor dumped on you.
 
A

akasam

Audiophyte
right so i checked a few solder connections and it powers on now some of the caps were lose and not making contact but there is still no audio at all little voltage on the speaker terminals around 1.9v and if i hook it up tot eh driver it has nothing i cant seem to figure out what is wrong but now it has power
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
right so i checked a few solder connections and it powers on now some of the caps were lose and not making contact but there is still no audio at all little voltage on the speaker terminals around 1.9v and if i hook it up tot eh driver it has nothing i cant seem to figure out what is wrong but now it has power
Well there should not be 1.9V on the speaker terminal. So that tells me the amp is done. You are wasting energy on this. That unit is terminal.
 
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