N

NewBJay

Audiophyte
I am looking for theater speakers. Does it matter that the from tower speakers are from a different manufacturer then the center, then the surrounds, and/or the subs? Should they all be from the same manufacturer?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Spartan
Ideally you want:
A: Match all speakers, not Subs (but you want your Subs to match each other).
Or...
B: Match your Front 3, with a strong recommendation to match your Surrounds with your Front 3. Rears and Atmos can be something else, but hopefully closely matched. Subs should still match each other.
Or if you just can't...
C: Match your Front 3, and do what you will for the rest. (Hopefully you will still match your Subs!)

Re: Subs... Most Speaker manufacturers don't make great Subs. There are plenty of companies, fortunately, that do. :) SVS, Monoprice Monolith, Outlaw, Hsu. Rythmik and PSA both get a lot of mention. On the higher end, JTR, Deep Sea, and Funk.
Mind... Subwoofers need to match your Room Volume (as in total open room cubic feet, not just the corner you listen in.) Good clean bass reproduction is a subtle but beautiful thing.
If your budget is tight, buy the best single sub for your room, which you can allow yourself to afford, and start saving for a second. :D
Multiple subs, placed smartly, help you get a better in-room response than any single sub will.

Hope this helps.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Ideally you want:
A: Match all speakers, not Subs (but you want your Subs to match each other).
Or...
B: Match your Front 3, with a strong recommendation to match your Surrounds with your Front 3. Rears and Atmos can be something else, but hopefully closely matched. Subs should still match each other.
Or if you just can't...
C: Match your Front 3, and do what you will for the rest. (Hopefully you will still match your Subs!)

Re: Subs... Most Speaker manufacturers don't make great Subs. There are plenty of companies, fortunately, that do. :) SVS, Monoprice Monolith, Outlaw, Hsu. Rythmik and PSA both get a lot of mention. On the higher end, JTR, Deep Sea, and Funk.
Mind... Subwoofers need to match your Room Volume (as in total open room cubic feet, not just the corner you listen in.) Good clean bass reproduction is a subtle but beautiful thing.
If your budget is tight, buy the best single sub for your room, which you can allow yourself to afford, and start saving for a second. :D
Multiple subs, placed smartly, help you get a better in-room response than any single sub will.

Hope this helps.
Exactly what I was thinking!
 
N

NewBJay

Audiophyte
Ideally you want:
A: Match all speakers, not Subs (but you want your Subs to match each other).
Or...
B: Match your Front 3, with a strong recommendation to match your Surrounds with your Front 3. Rears and Atmos can be something else, but hopefully closely matched. Subs should still match each other.
Or if you just can't...
C: Match your Front 3, and do what you will for the rest. (Hopefully you will still match your Subs!)

Re: Subs... Most Speaker manufacturers don't make great Subs. There are plenty of companies, fortunately, that do. :) SVS, Monoprice Monolith, Outlaw, Hsu. Rythmik and PSA both get a lot of mention. On the higher end, JTR, Deep Sea, and Funk.
Mind... Subwoofers need to match your Room Volume (as in total open room cubic feet, not just the corner you listen in.) Good clean bass reproduction is a subtle but beautiful thing.
If your budget is tight, buy the best single sub for your room, which you can allow yourself to afford, and start saving for a second. :D
Multiple subs, placed smartly, help you get a better in-room response than any single sub will.

Hope this helps.

Awesome, thanks!!!
I have a 28 x 15 room, so >3000ft^3, so I am thinking 7.2 with subs at opposite corners. Would 10" suffice or should be 12"?
Another question I have, I am running 12 gauge to ceiling speakers (I know, not preferred, but have no choice), can I run the CL2 cable in the same holes as electrical? I have exposed joists so can drill independent holes, just wanted to save time.
A third (beginner) question, insulation... I have researched Rockwool or mineral insulation for soundproofing. The room will never be sound proof, but want good acoustics. What do you recommend for good insulation? The wife wants a slate floor, so plush area rug will be needed. Walls will have half façade and pleated curtains to ceiling like movie theaters. Maybe need foam or padding behind fabric? I have also seen ceiling insulation with 2 x 5/8 drywall using Green Glue in between.? and or channel brackets. Overkill???
Thanks in advance!!!
 
mazersteven

mazersteven

Audioholic Warlord
I have a 28 x 15 room, so >3000ft^3, so I am thinking 7.2 with subs at opposite corners. Would 10" suffice or should be 12"?
Big Room. 10" ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!

2

2
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Awesome, thanks!!!
I have a 28 x 15 room, so >3000ft^3, so I am thinking 7.2 with subs at opposite corners. Would 10" suffice or should be 12"?
Another question I have, I am running 12 gauge to ceiling speakers (I know, not preferred, but have no choice), can I run the CL2 cable in the same holes as electrical? I have exposed joists so can drill independent holes, just wanted to save time.
A third (beginner) question, insulation... I have researched Rockwool or mineral insulation for soundproofing. The room will never be sound proof, but want good acoustics. What do you recommend for good insulation? The wife wants a slate floor, so plush area rug will be needed. Walls will have half façade and pleated curtains to ceiling like movie theaters. Maybe need foam or padding behind fabric? I have also seen ceiling insulation with 2 x 5/8 drywall using Green Glue in between.? and or channel brackets. Overkill???
Thanks in advance!!!
I have three 12’s in a similar space(not counting adjacent kitchen etc) and I would recommend for you a pair of 15’s. Depending on your budget I’d recommend a pair of 18’s from Rythmik, or two of their dual 15’s.(yep 4-15”drivers). Of course there are MANY options out there. So... budget would help.
Also. No, don’t run speaker cables with Romex.
Haven’t used rockwool but know plenty who have successfully.
@ellisr63 has used it in his old theater. He might have some insight.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Spartan
I have a 28 x 15 room, so >3000ft^3
Is it open to other areas, or a closed room? If it's closed and really in the neighborhood of 3000-4000 cu ft, something in the 13-15" variety would be pretty good. 12" drivers with good clean output may work, too.

Do the subwoofer crawl to determine the best placement for your subs. I am no fan of corner-loading, 1/4-wall, 1/2 wall, front-loading, etc... as a rule. Yes, there are circumstances where these placements work, and work well. But every room is different! I am a firm believer in learning about the acoustics of your room and how the Subs will behave in your room. It is possible you find one of those more dogmatic approaches works. In my room, corner-loading produces boomy, muddy bass.

Likewise, don't treat your room until you learn about it! Set up gear. Take measurements. Find out if you need panels or whatnot. Carpet, furniture, good curtains, other artwork and knick-knacks, bookshelves with books... these all help out.

Why is 12 gauge cable not preferred? Unless you need something weird dealt with, 12AWG is fine.

Try to keep your cables and electrical runs apart, especially if running parallel to each other. It's not likely to create a problem, necessarily, but why take the chance.
Subwoofer cables should definitely be kept away from electrical.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Spartan
BTW, Rockwool is TOXIC.
Fiberglass is bad, but rockwool is worse.

:)

Learn about acoustics before you treat your room.

I will always and forever repeat this line. I've seen many experienced users treat their rooms to the nines, only to realize they didn't get what they wanted and toss it all out... and be happier for it.

 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Hey ryan!!!!
I think the 12ga wasn’t for the cables. I think he was talking about the IC speakers.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Spartan
Hey ryan!!!!
I think the 12ga wasn’t for the cables. I think he was talking about the IC speakers.
OP mentioned that and CL2... I assumed it was the same, 12AWG, CL2 rated in-wall cabling. Only he can clarify. *shrugs

BTW... Hi Bill! Hope you got your furnace tuned up! I'm still watching the winds out here hoping I don't have to pack up and run from another fire. SMDH
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
OP mentioned that and CL2... I assumed it was the same, 12AWG, CL2 rated in-wall cabling. Only he can clarify. *shrugs

BTW... Hi Bill! Hope you got your furnace tuned up! I'm still watching the winds out here hoping I don't have to pack up and run from another fire. SMDH
Yeah brother, as much as I’m jelly of you westsiders, I’ve been feeling for you guys. That’s some shitt out there. Hang tight!
I do have my boiler on(in floor heat). It’s been well below average here and have had two snow storms dump snow earlier and deeper than ever. FML..... on the plus side, I’ve been able to work on my fish tank lol. Glad you’re ok.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Spartan
Yeah brother, as much as I’m jelly of you westsiders, I’ve been feeling for you guys. That’s some shitt out there. Hang tight!
I do have my boiler on(in floor heat). It’s been well below average here and have had two snow storms dump snow earlier and deeper than ever. FML..... on the plus side, I’ve been able to work on my fish tank lol. Glad you’re ok.
Ya... CalFire has us at an estimated 4.15 million acres burned this year. That’s some sh!t.
Radiant heating is nice. We had a place for a minute that had that... deep in the trees and cold. Place stayed warm though. :)
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Spartan
Ya... CalFire has us at an estimated 4.15 million acres burned this year. That’s some sh!t.
Radiant heating is nice. We had a place for a minute that had that... deep in the trees and cold. Place stayed warm though. :)
Yeah, there’s nothing like walking around in the morning with a nice warm floor. But I’d rather not need it!
Wow. 4.15m acres. What a weird year... stay safe.
 
ellisr63

ellisr63

Full Audioholic
BTW, Rockwool is TOXIC.
Fiberglass is bad, but rockwool is worse.

:)

Learn about acoustics before you treat your room.

I will always and forever repeat this line. I've seen many experienced users treat their rooms to the nines, only to realize they didn't get what they wanted and toss it all out... and be happier for it.

Interesting exactly the opposite of what I have seen posted before about testing for Roxul, Corning, and fibrglass stuffing.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 
ellisr63

ellisr63

Full Audioholic
I have three 12’s in a similar space(not counting adjacent kitchen etc) and I would recommend for you a pair of 15’s. Depending on your budget I’d recommend a pair of 18’s from Rythmik, or two of their dual 15’s.(yep 4-15”drivers). Of course there are MANY options out there. So... budget would help.
Also. No, don’t run speaker cables with Romex.
Haven’t used rockwool but know plenty who have successfully.
@ellisr63 has used it in his old theater. He might have some insight.
I ran 2" Roxul R60 for the whole front wall of my old theater, and used 4" for first reflrction points on the walls and ceiling. I also had 9" of Roxul for the rear wall. We used OSB with clips for the ceiling and walls, and then applied green glue to staggered sheets of drywall. Worked out great, and did a great job on reducing noise to the outside of our garage. We also had a short hallway 3ntrance with 2 solid core doors with 1 door having an additional layer of mdf applied, and the other door had a layer of mdf on the hallwzy side and reclaimed redwood 2x4s for the other side (the entrance to the theater wasftom a 7000 gallon indoor koi pond). All Roxul was covered onthe backside with white muslin material, and GOM for the side facing you.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
 

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