MDF or Baltic Birch???

[highfigh]

I've actually used a Festool set up to undercut doors. Even after you get past the dust with MDF, you still have the weight problem ... and you never get past that dust. I can still taste it from last year.

I've got basic woodworking covered. With MDF you want the vacuum and you want to be outside and you want to be away from anything you don't want the wind to plaster with that crap. However the advantages of MDF can't be denied. It is easy to cut, it's cheap, it's stable. I just happen to hate it.

I think a properly braced cabinet would sound similar in either medium. Even supposing that the difference was easily audible once you knew what to listen for, I'd still take the lighter and more expensive ply cabinet. Such is my contempt for that glued up mess.

A ply cabinet would be less prone to being damaged under it's own weight. I'm talking like I have the money to afford the step up in price (I don't). Speaking to Walter's question, even though MDF has acoustic advantages, I would still choose ply.

I have a dust collector. I used to have a coating of dust on everything in my garage but it's no problem, now.

 

[TheWarrior]

I have a dust collector. I used to have a coating of dust on everything in my garage but it's no problem, now.

You also just need to wear full protection regardless. Its what you can't see that makes you sick!

 

[highfigh]

You also just need to wear full protection regardless. Its what you can't see that makes you sick!

Definitely! It's the small particle size that allows it to remain airborne longer and they travel farther into the lungs.

 

[TheWarrior]

Definitely! It's the small particle size that allows it to remain airborne longer and they travel farther into the lungs.

I use a ceiling mounted air cleaner that has a timer so you can run it up to 4 hours after you've finished. It does genuinely help!

 

[highfigh]

I use a ceiling mounted air cleaner that has a timer so you can run it up to 4 hours after you've finished. It does genuinely help!

Absolutely! Even a simple box fan blowing out through a window helps. One of these days, I'm going to mount the spare furnace blower so it removes the hot air at the top of my garage- it will also get rid of the finest dust.

 

[TheWarrior]

In my home garage/shop I have a Shop Fox set up for $200. Does a good job of keeping me cool with our humidity, down yonder.

Enjoy a Sprecher's for me!

 

[TLS Guy]

On the whole I prefer MDF.

The biggest nuisance is the dust.

MDF is heavy and dense. I think it does have a little less coloration than plywood.

It is good and straight and does not warp and does not have voids. You do have to be careful with the edges during construction.

The router cuts are better and the internal pieces slide in nicely.

I like to work with pre veneered MDF, veneered in both sides to prevent warping. This saves the expense and trouble of putting on veneer.

With properly planned routing you get a nice cabinet, with rounded edges, by gluing in 1/4 round.

I guess you use what you have got used to. But I think there are good reasons to prefer MDF.

 

[walter duque]

On the whole I prefer MDF.

The biggest nuisance is the dust.

MDF is heavy and dense. I think it does have a little less coloration than plywood.

It is good and straight and does not warp and does not have voids. You do have to be careful with the edges during construction.

The router cuts are better and the internal pieces slide in nicely.

I like to work with pre veneered MDF, veneered in both sides to prevent warping. This saves the expense and trouble of putting on veneer.

With properly planned routing you get a nice cabinet, with rounded edges, by gluing in 1/4 round.

I guess you use what you have got used to. But I think there are good reasons to prefer MDF.

So why are mine build with BB if MDF is so much better????

 

[TheWarrior]

So why are mine build with BB if MDF is so much better????

Whomever their supplier is they got a cheaper deal!

 

[walter duque]

Whomever their supplier is they got a cheaper deal!

My builder is the OEM for that company and they wanted to use BB. I don't think it has anything to do with being cheaper, the speakers are 40K.

 

[Swerd]

MDF

• Cheaper
• Heavier
• Requires some dust control when cutting
  
• Dimensions change less as humidity changes
• Flat smooth surface allows easier veneer or paint finishing
• Works well for speaker cabinets

Baltic Birch

• More expensive
• Lighter
• Creates less obnoxious dust when cutting
• To avoid dimensions shifting due to humidity, requires finishing both sides
  
• Requires sanding before finishing
  
• Works well for speaker cabinets, especially if weight is an issue

 

[TLS Guy]

So why are mine build with BB if MDF is so much better????

In the end it comes down to what ever you prefer working with. Birch is stronger, but it is a fact it has lower internal damping.

If I was an employer the legal risk from employees could factor in using much more expensive Baltic Birch. MDF dust is a know carcinogen, but so is oak dust.

Baltic Birch really is the only really acceptable ply for high grade speakers. It does however have lower internal damping properties than MDF. For a sub this is not an issue, but for higher frequencies it is.

By the way, solid hardwoods are not suitable for loudspeaker cabinets.

 

[Swerd]

If I was an employer the legal risk from employees could factor in using much more expensive Baltic Birch. MDF dust is a know carcinogen, but so is oak dust.

To be more precise, formaldehyde and urea-formaldehyde, are known carcinogens. They are used during manufacturing to bond the fibers in MDF. These compounds are known to leach out of MDF at low levels after manufacture. Whether these constant emissions of formaldehyde reach harmful levels in real-world environments is not yet known. So until then, it is better to be safe than sorry.

I don't know if the layers of Baltic birch are bonded with the same method as MDF. And more to the point, what about foreign made Baltic birch?

Medium-Density Fiberboard
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard

MDF Safety Concerns
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard#Safety_concerns

Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk
http://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet

 

[TheWarrior]

To be more precise, formaldehyde and urea-formaldehyde, are known carcinogens. They are used during manufacturing to bond the fibers in MDF. These compounds are known to leach out of MDF at low levels after manufacture. Whether these constant emissions of formaldehyde reach harmful levels in real-world environments is not yet known. So until then, it is better to be safe than sorry.

I don't know if the layers of Baltic birch are bonded with the same method as MDF. And more to the point, what about foreign made Baltic birch?

Medium-Density Fiberboard
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard

MDF Safety Concerns
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard#Safety_concerns

Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk
http://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet

China does not have CARB pushing these issues. Sure there will always be people who complain about pressure treated not containing poison any longer, but guess what, more reason to buy American Made!

 

[walter duque]

MDF

• Cheaper
• Heavier
• Requires some dust control when cutting
  
• Dimensions change less as humidity changes
• Flat smooth surface allows easier veneer or paint finishing
• Works well for speaker cabinets

Baltic Birch

• More expensive
• Lighter
• Creates less obnoxious dust when cutting
• To avoid dimensions shifting due to humidity, requires finishing both sides
  
• Requires sanding before finishing
  
• Works well for speaker cabinets, especially if weight is an issue

I think you got a good point there>The BB version of that sub seems to be lighter then the MDF. I mean mine is still heavy but it doesn't fell like it weighs a 165#.

Subwoofer: Dual 15-Inch Isobaric
Connections: RCA line-level input (on external crossover box)
Enclosure Type: Vented Isobaric
Woofer (size in inches, type): 15, carbon/paper cone (2)
Power Rating: Non-powered—works with external amps from
40–1,200 watts
Crossover Bypass: Yes
Available Finishes: Oak, Black Oak, custom paint finishes
Dimensions (H x W x D, inches): 18 x 19.5 x 32
Weight (pounds): 165
Price: $5,295/each

 

[KEW]

After all of this discussion, you really should ask the manufacturer and let us know what he has to say!