Marantz sr7012 flat bass

[William Lemmerhirt]

Earlier he talked about raising the sub's "crossover" to 250hz, so that sounds like the LPF of LFE, which isn't a crossover (that last bit isn't for you but rather the OP).

Well I did consider that, but also thought about the back of the sub. Never seen one go that high but...

 

[lovinthehd]

Well I did consider that, but also thought about the back of the sub. Never seen one go that high but...

Good point, hadn't thought about the low pass filter on the sub but don't think I've seen one go up that high either although I usually just dial it to max and not pay attention to the number . I think he was talking about avr settings, tho. FWIW I can raise LPF of LFE to 250 on one of my Denons (not an option in the other that I can find), and in my Onkyo only up to 120, my Sony doesn't have the option.

 

[mazersteven]

One reason for the problem may be this.

You can see that the mids and HF units are over attenuated at the 800 Hz crossover point. In addition BSC seems on the over generous side.

A speaker with an FR like that will sound over warm and appear to have a strong bass, when in fact the F3 is 49 Hz.

Now I suspect that Audyssey is pulling that 5 db or so rise below 800 Hz down. The OP does not like that, as he likes the speakers the way they are.

In addition his receiver only have a 6 ohm rating. His speakers are quite definitely four ohm. So it is possible his receiver being a newer vintage does not handle that the best. With the FR the way is is, you know those speakers are going to be pulling a lot of current and increasing below 800 Hz.

This may actually be the crux of the matter.

As I have said before there are just too many power amps in receivers. They need a diet of 5 max. If people want more channels then there needs to be a forcing to use preouts and use external amplification.

The Original OP had Dali speakers. The New OP who tagged onto this thread has SVS speakers

 

[Trebdp83]

I think MattK2 pulled the number from the manual. I think a good place to start on a manual setup is to set the physical volume knob on the sub up to about 40%, crossover knob to maximum which is usually 120Hz-180Hz. Crossover at 80Hz and LPF at 120Hz. Speakers set to small and every Dynamic ANYTHING and LFE+Main OFF. Again, just a recommended starting point as tinkering will no doubt take place but you gotta’ start somewhere.

 

[lovinthehd]

I think MattK2 pulled the number from the manual. I think a good place to start on a manual setup is to set the physical volume knob on the sub up to about 40%, crossover knob to maximum which is usually 120Hz-180Hz. Crossover at 80Hz and LPF at 120Hz. Speakers set to small and every Dynamic ANYTHING and LFE+Main OFF. Again, just a recommended starting point as tinkering will no doubt take place but you gotta’ start somewhere.View attachment 43285

They don't particularly mention that the LPF of LFE is limited to the LFE channel....yet in my similar Denon it does say limited to the LFE channel.....

 

[MattK2]

Tower XO: 60Hz
Surround and Center XO: 80Hz
LPF for LFE: 250 Hz....sorry I used the wrong term previously.
All speakers set to "small" except for 2 channel playback set to "large" with no sub.
LFE only
No Dynamic Vol
No Dynamic EQ
No Audessey profile setup all manual.

Sub has the High Level Input and Low 0.1/LFE connected per their recommendations. This is something I'm still looking into since you can turn the sub on/off for different playback modes within the Marantz. If I want to run the TT without a sub and the 2 towers ONLY, the Marantz can do that, but if the High Level Input is connected, it always runs the sub no matter what unless I power it down, AND it receives the same signal as the towers. My understanding is that the sub will receive a Low 0.1/LFE signal for non 5.1 mixes to underpin the existing main loud speakers that goes below the XO setting of the High Level Input. It uses the Low Pass Filter from the Marantz as set by user....again, this is how I'm trying to understand the setting affect the speakers. I'm still experimenting. Pardon the center speaker, haven't made the box for the TV to set on that the speaker will fit under for proper placement.

This is the system I bought for the room it resides. Can't really go with a bigger sub due to space constraints. All in all, I think I've maxed out the space and what I can do in this 13x26 room. No placement changes are really possible except for the rear surrounds, which could go a couple feet higher so you can actually hear them better.

Custom made hickory entertainment center

Marantz - SR7012 Surround Receiver **OPEN BOX**DEMO

Bluesound - Vault 2 (2TB, Black)

Sennheiser - HD 599 Headphones

REL - T7i Subwoofer (Black) **OPEN BOX**DEMO

SVS - Prime Tower (Black Ash)

SVS - Prime (Black Ash)

SVS - Prime Center (Black Ash) OPPO - DV-938H Panasonic - TH-50PZ80U Project/one DR-770 Turntable made by C.E.C. of Japan c.1976 Bellari Tube Pre-amp VP-530

AudioQuest - Black Lab Sub Cable (RCA, 3.0m) AudioQuest - Pearl HDMI (1.0m) AudioQuest - Forest TosLink (Full to Full, 1.5m) AudioQuest - Pearl HDMI (1.5m) AudioQuest - Evergreen (RCA-to-RCA, 2.0m) AudioQuest - Evergreen (RCA-to-RCA, 1.5m)

 

[lovinthehd]

Generally the Rel advice about high level input is 2ch oriented and still misdirected, wouldn't bother myself. A better sub than Rel might well be in order, tho, they're overpriced and underperforming generally. If you want some more bass I'd try LFE instead of LFE & Main and use Dynamic EQ, particularly at lower volume levels (but for music do use the RLO adjustments, tho). Why the Fraudioquest wiring?

 

[MattK2]

Generally the Rel advice about high level input is 2ch oriented and still misdirected, wouldn't bother myself. A better sub than Rel might well be in order, tho, they're overpriced and underperforming generally. If you want some more bass I'd try LFE instead of LFE & Main and use Dynamic EQ, particularly at lower volume levels (but for music do use the RLO adjustments, tho). Why the Fraudioquest wiring?

Why not use Audioquest? I had junk to begin with from years of old systems. I'm sure there are better product out there. I'm not some expert audio equipment guy, just learning what I can and making the best of what I have. I didn't pay up for loudspeaker cable at some ridiculous price, like a lot of people do.

 

[mazersteven]

I like the center channel to the side

 

[lovinthehd]

Why not use Audioquest? I had junk to begin with from years of old systems. I'm sure there are better product out there. I'm not some expert audio equipment guy, just learning what I can and making the best of what I have. I didn't pay up for loudspeaker cable at some ridiculous price, like a lot of people do.

They're just purveyors of cable idiocy in general. The cables work but are overpriced for what they are. Lots of choices for good cables out there. Junk in what way were your old wires? While there are some bad ones, most function just fine.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I would consider a riser for the tv and get the center over to the center.

 

[MattK2]

They're just purveyors of cable idiocy in general. The cables work but are overpriced for what they are. Lots of choices for good cables out there. Junk in what way were your old wires? While there are some bad ones, most function just fine.

I recall their low line products being less expensive than some other makes out there. Some products are insanely expensive, for what? My ears can’t tell the diff. I caught on to the exaggerated claims for expensive audio equipment in general, but I have what I have and I’m good with it.
To answer your previous question, my old cables were mix and match from old equip and not staying connected very well. HDMI cables that fuzz out, same with the old RCAs. Oxidized and smallest gauge.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

The Bose has decent bass for a small unit.

We’re sorry to inform you that your Man-Card has been revoked.

 

[lovinthehd]

I recall their low line products being less expensive than some other makes out there. Some products are insanely expensive, for what? My ears can’t tell the diff. I caught on to the exaggerated claims for expensive audio equipment in general, but I have what I have and I’m good with it.
To answer your previous question, my old cables were mix and match from old equip and not staying connected very well. HDMI cables that fuzz out, same with the old RCAs. Oxidized and smallest gauge.

If more expensive than Fraudioquest that just means they're even more ridiculous. Connectors that don't function is a different subject but easily resolved outside of Fraudioquest offerings. HDMI cables fuzzing out is not something I'm familiar with particularly, as long as they're of sufficient bandwidth they simply work or not. Sounds like salespeople at Best Buy got to ya!

 

[MattK2]

I would consider a riser for the tv and get the center over to the center.

That’s the plan as written in a previous post.

 

[Trebdp83]

I believe he said a box is in the works for the center channel. Sorry MattK2, these guys can be ornery but they really are here to help and they know their stuff. It can be amusing when they get on one.

 

[MattK2]

Cmon.

We’re sorry to inform you that your Man-Card has been revoked.

It’s just a portable kitchen speaker. Cmon. Does everything have to be audiophile excellent? However I do have a vintage 90s setup in my garage with 15” woofers and a mid 60s Pontiac with a 4 speed. I think I’m good.

 

[mazersteven]

I believe he said a box is in the works for the center channel. Sorry MattK2, these guys can be ornery but they really are here to help and they know their stuff. It can be amusing when they get on one.

Yeah wait till Sachb puts his two cents in he is a Speaker Placement Perfectionist

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

That’s the plan as written in a previous post.

Ok. I might have skimmed over that. I’m multitasking lol.

 

[mazersteven]

and a mid 60s Pontiac with a 4 speed. I think I’m good.

Prove it