Looking to build an upgrade

Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Alright, I get what you are saying, and I think I completely understand the purpose of crossovers now.

What I want to do is get this kit and build the cabinet to exact specifications of this. What I want to know is, is there extra room to add a larger woofer? How would I go about doing this?
The TriTrix is apparently a good design and is inexpensive too. It has sold very well.

It's great that you are learning some woodworking. That should help with building the cabinet.

I fully agree with the others. If you go with that kit, stick to the original design. Remember that the crossover is designed with specific choices of woofer(s) and tweeter and cabinet in mind. The width of the cabinet's front baffle as well as the location of the drivers are all important and should not be changed.

I think you may be surprised how good the TriTrix bass is. If you decide you want more bass, build an amplified subwoofer. Everything you need to understand about designing cabinets for a subwoofer is in the first 3 chapters of Speaker Building 201.
 
Speculant

Speculant

Audioholic
the tweeter looks rather low... 26" high..
Nah, not for when you are sitting down. For when you are standing, definitely too low, but these speakers will be for either a computer or TV so I think it will be just fine.
 
Speculant

Speculant

Audioholic
Alright, I'm currently programming the cabinet in inventor right now.



How deep should I make the indents for the speakers? Should the woofer and the tweeter holes be the same depth? Right now I'm just going with .25" inches depth (the veneer I'm working with is .75" thick).
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
How deep should I make the indents for the speakers? Should the woofer and the tweeter holes be the same depth? Right now I'm just going with .25" inches depth (the veneer I'm working with is .75" thick).
The cutout and recess dimensions for the woofers and tweeter used in the TriTrix are shown here. Their layout on the front baffle is shown here.

According to the first drawing, to flush mount the woofers you need a ¼" deep recess and the tweeter needs a 3/16" deep recess. The cutout holes (smaller diameter than the recess) go all the way through the front baffle. The diameter of the recess and cutouts are also shown in the first drawing.
 
Speculant

Speculant

Audioholic
Ok, after much deliberation I decided to go with the sealed version of the Tritrix because of two reasons: simplicity and portability. With my leaving for college in less than a year, I can't really haul around two giant tower speakers every dorm and apartment I move into. With the sealed versions, they are smaller, much easier to build, and easier to service if something internal goes wrong (less wiring-all of it can be inspected at once-and less distance from all the internal parts; the crossover and the binding posts can be inspected without much effort). I already have a ported subwoofer, so bass won't be a problem.

Now all I need to do is actually CNC the thing (I finished it in Inventor), purchase the parts, and build it.
 
B

Blaine

Audiophyte
if you know how to do it by yourself , than you better know is 100$ enough for making this system or not . as far as drivers are concern you can use realtek hd .
 
Speculant

Speculant

Audioholic
if you know how to do it by yourself , than you better know is 100$ enough for making this system or not . as far as drivers are concern you can use realtek hd .
Um...what? ~$100 is my budget, it's not like I have a choice.

Also, Realtek HD is a software driver, why did you say I could just use that? Different audio chipsets use different audio drivers. It's not like I can just "use" a completely different audio driver.
 

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