Kappa build using a 12W6V2

GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
My friend and I are going to be building one or two subs for his HT, and he wants to do the kappa build and use a 12W6V2. We have all the plans and cut list for the build, but since the W6 is deeper, what needs to be changed?
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
My friend and I are going to be building one or two subs for his HT, and he wants to do the kappa build and use a 12W6V2. We have all the plans and cut list for the build, but since the W6 is deeper, what needs to be changed?
If you look around, and I will look also, somewhere in these threads WmAx outlined the modifications to the box for that driver, off to the diy section, see ya there, sawz..
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
My friend and I are going to be building one or two subs for his HT, and he wants to do the kappa build and use a 12W6V2. We have all the plans and cut list for the build, but since the W6 is deeper, what needs to be changed?
The mounting depth of the 12 w6v2 is 7.6 inches while the mounting depth of the VQ is 7 inches. I'd simply take a half inch out of the brace directly behind the board for the rockwool. If you want a little extra for comfort then take another 1/8" of an inch out.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
The mounting depth of the 12 w6v2 is 7.6 inches while the mounting depth of the VQ is 7 inches. I'd simply take a half inch out of the brace directly behind the board for the rockwool. If you want a little extra for comfort then take another 1/8" of an inch out.
I also think that you could skip putting the rock wool directly behind the driver and put it on the side walls instead that way the driver will not be backed up against the material.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
The easiest solution is to add an additional 3/4" layer on the front of the cabinet. This will give you the additional 0.75" without having to make any modifications otherwise to the cut list or make any modifications to the internal dampening layout.

-Chris
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I also think that you could skip putting the rock wool directly behind the driver and put it on the side walls instead that way the driver will not be backed up against the material.
I can't suggest this. The material is there to dampen mechanical noise. The last place to skimp is on the rockwool behind a driver. Think about that sound wave going through the voice coil and becoming part of the sound. :eek: We want to quiet that noise for clean output. The designers of this box put a lot of effort into it and it is a case study for excellent subwoofer design. Of course many of us short cut for simplicity, but sticking as close to the design as possible makes for a better sub. The greatest issue with this design is the port length. But as long as your mains can extend or you have an eq notch filter that's not an issue.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
The easiest solution is to add an additional 3/4" layer on the front of the cabinet. This will give you the additional 0.75" without having to make any modifications otherwise to the cut list or make any modifications to the internal dampening layout.

-Chris
Oh yeah lol. How could I forget that. That has some added benefits too.
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
Excellent, that makes it super easy. So now I have other questions, what is the rockwool for exactly, how important is it to use it, can we get away without using it, and what is the tune of this enclosure?
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Excellent, that makes it super easy. So now I have other questions, what is the rockwool for exactly, how important is it to use it, can we get away without using it, and what is the tune of this enclosure?
rockwool is high density mineral wool used to dampen bass frequencies.

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Roxul-Rockboard-60--RB60-S.html

is a good online source for a single sheet. If you are like me and hate going out in public.

wrap with this

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Burlap-Fabric-56-inch-wide--1009.html
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I can't suggest this. The material is there to dampen mechanical noise. The last place to skimp is on the rockwool behind a driver. Think about that sound wave going through the voice coil and becoming part of the sound. :eek: We want to quiet that noise for clean output. The designers of this box put a lot of effort into it and it is a case study for excellent subwoofer design. Of course many of us short cut for simplicity, but sticking as close to the design as possible makes for a better sub. The greatest issue with this design is the port length. But as long as your mains can extend or you have an eq notch filter that's not an issue.
I only suggested this because it was once suggested to me here on the forum by another member so I assumed it would be OK when the back of my driver was just touching the Rock Wool I just thinned down my pillows and re wrapped the left over material and glued it to a side wall here is the post I was referring to:http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=555746&postcount=93
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I highly suggest a window brace with this (kappa) design and put the rockwool on the vent itself inside the enclosure. A window type brace displaces less air, encourages better are movement internally with less restriction and offers the same amount of strength.


I would also tune to 21hz as opposed to 19hz with this driver.
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
What would need to be changed to tune to 21 hz.? How importang is the rockwool, would it be really bad if no rockwook was used?
 
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sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
What would need to be changed to tune to 21 hz.? How importang is the rockwool, would it be really bad if no rockwook was used?
Is it because a lack of resources as in no rockwool to be found? If so maybe you could substitute something else instead of skipping all together, :)
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
I just have a feeling my friend wants to build it this weekend and won't want to worry about getting it or messing with it. Can rockwool, or something similar be purchased at home depot?
 
Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
I just have a feeling my friend wants to build it this weekend and won't want to worry about getting it or messing with it. Can rockwool, or something similar be purchased at home depot?
I haven't seen rockwool or anything similiar at my local home depot.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Lowes has a wool type material that is used as underlayment for Berber carpet if you bought some of that and a can of adhesive spray I bet you could spray about six or more layers together and get some pretty dense material when all done it's like 1/2 inch thick it was the only thing I ever saw at Lowes that even looked like it had a chance.
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
But would it be bad not to use any rockwool at all, how important is it? I need to know before we start the build since it's not something that can be added after the box is built.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
But would it be bad not to use any rockwool at all, how important is it? I need to know before we start the build since it's not something that can be added after the box is built.
It can be added after as long as there is some room between the driver and the large brace(enough room to fit the wool) as you can just go through the cut out for the driver. That is how I put mine into the box so basically you can complete the box and even install the driver for now while you wait for the rock wool delivery then once you get it remove the driver and put it in. This could be somewhat of an experiment for you guys to let us know if you notice a difference without the wool and then with the wool, just a thought, sawz..:)
 
GlocksRock

GlocksRock

Audioholic Spartan
This build is for my buddy, so it will be totally up to him if he wants to use it or not. I guess we will see what he want to do when we start the project.
 

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