I fear that it very well is too bright. I'd call it an end to this fun possibility. However, to be totally sure, I'd pose questions in the linked thread above, perhaps, for some consumer input on past experiences. I don't think you'll need it, particularly with the cave setup. Cheers.
What's the problem with keystoning a little?The replacement has arrived and has zero hours on the bulb timer. I am having a tough time getting a square image without using keystone correction, so I am going to make sure my screen is level, the projector is level, and the center of the lens is lined up with the center of the screen, then I will try a film out. I will do this sometime in the near future, probably after the work day has concluded, but who knows. It is not a fun time for a graduate student these days.
Well, I probably didn't state it correctly in my previous post. The RS2 has no keystone correction, which actually is fantastic with me. It has plenty of lens shift, I just have to get it set up on the shelf properly.
strube, I have strong reason to believe that using some shift will actually get you better contrast with this unit. I don't think you'll be hurting for lumens. To appease your super anal engineering disposition, I will hunt the reason down today at some point.I never use keystone, even when it is available. It digitally distorts the image, which, as I am somewhat of a purist, is unacceptable. If lens shift won't cut it and you have to tilt the PJ either horizontally or vertically, thus requiring keystone, then you either need a different PJ or a different mounting location, IMHO, of course.
No worries, I am using much of the vertical lens shift on the RS2 (which BTW makes the horizontal lens shift capabilities extremely limited). I just need to get it centered and leveled up. That is interesting though - I had no idea that using shift could actually improve contrast, but my Physics 3/Optics professor didn't really teach me anything of use and pretty much just wasted a semester of my time, so what can I say?
).
"Whatcha talkin' 'bout Willis?"
Just a tasty rumor floating around about an AVP version of either the 4310 or 4810 - this image says the former but I have also heard it being the latter...Willis.
If the AVP-CIX is the 4810 without amps and with balanced inputs, it will probably be my choice, however, if it is the 4310 without amps and with balanced inputs, I will probably elect to go with the 4810 also, as it is ideal for my purposes too, I just get dazzled by the idea of true separates sometimes.Yeah, I heard that too. Maybe something will come out at the CEDIA show. Right now the 4810 may actually fit my needs. Looking forward to reading the manual!
Yeah they could probably be written better, but I don't find them that daunting.Are you also taking speakers into account when making your measurements? You will need space for fronts unless you are doing inwalls or AT screen. Just food for thought.
