JL W7 Home Conversion !! :D

[RBrashears]

I've just got introduced to HT and now I'm hooked... Currently my setup consists of Klipsch KLF 30 as my mains and a Klipsch KLF C7 as the center, only thing missing is the sub.

I have been reading some things on these forms about converting The JL audio W7 into the HT which got me excited and now I'm wanting some advise.

I'm looking for adivse on building and tuning the box so any prior experence with these conversions would be greatly appriciated!! I know these subs have been around for awhile and people have been bringing them into the HT for quite some time. so any persoinaly experience or expert knowledge would be great...

I was wanting to tackle this myslef and give me something to do over the winter so the more details the better on the Box build, I'm no expert when it come to making boxes..... yet

 

[timoteo]

Welcome!!

Well sounds like you got the "bug", oh boy!!!

So do you already own the JL W7?

If you do, what size...8",10"12"or13"?

Do you want to go sealed or ported?

More info about your space. Room size, is it closed or open to other areas, if so what size are those areas, what will it be used for movies, music or both?

Sorry for all the questions but we need info to.be able to help you!!

 

[RBrashears]

i have the sub already, its the 12 in w7.

when it comes to a sealed or ported box it doesnt matter to me, is one more prefered/better than the other?

the sub would be used for music and movies.. Love them both

the room size may be an issue since i am currently renting the size will be changing when i move. but currenly the room is 20x16 and open to the dining room and kitchen which are together a little bigger, probably 20x25

Is there any box type i could build that would be more acceptable to room size changes?
Thanks!

 

[templemaners]

You might want to check out this thread in the DIY section - someone else is using a 12" W7:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/diy-corner-tips-techniques/77411-diy-jl-12w7-ep2500.html#post852714

You got a pretty big room, so if you're going to stick with only one sub, it would be beneficial SPL wise to make it ported. Do you have any size preference with the sub?

You should also try downloading WinISD and try modeling the W7 in some different boxes. I've noticed there's a bit of a learning curve with it, but it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

 

[TLS Guy]

i have the sub already, its the 12 in w7.

when it comes to a sealed or ported box it doesnt matter to me, is one more prefered/better than the other?

the sub would be used for music and movies.. Love them both

the room size may be an issue since i am currently renting the size will be changing when i move. but currenly the room is 20x16 and open to the dining room and kitchen which are together a little bigger, probably 20x25

Is there any box type i could build that would be more acceptable to room size changes?
Thanks!

I assume that is the discontinued 12W7 and not the 12W7-3 AE which has replaced it.

Unfortunately the archived document on the JL audio site will not download correctly, it is full of errors. Do you have the Thiel/Small parameters?

 

[lsiberian]

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/diy-corner-tips-techniques/67396-need-help-box-jl-audio-12w7-3-a.html

Check out the thread link above

t/s parameters(at least what I could find)

Free Air Resonance (Fs): 27.2 Hz
Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.514
Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 7.807
Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.482
Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 2.33 cu. ft. / 66.0 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 1.15 in. / 29 mm
Reference Efficiency (no): 0.249%
Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 86.2 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd): 84 sq. in. / 0.0542 sq. m.
DC Resistance (Re): 2.47 ohm
Nominal Impedance (Znom): 3 ohm
Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 1000W
Driver Displacement: 0.14 cu. ft. / 4.0 liters
Net Weight: 45 lbs. / 20.4 kg
----

By the equations 118.75 tuned to 22.67 is the optimal alignment with a 6" x 31.35" port

Essentially a 22" cube. You could do a dual 4" but I'm afraid I haven't added the functionality to mess with the ports yet. If you can get the port area to be equal 46.52" with a square port then you can use the length above.

4.65" x 10" square port would work very well

Sealed is 59.51 liters(17" cube)

 

[RBrashears]

the guy i bouht the sub from said it was just over a year old so it might not be the discontinued model but im not 100%, is there a way i can tell?

I've downloaded winISD and well i hate to say it but i dont understand anything its telling me. I'm VERY new to this speaker lingo.

Lsiberian, is there a way you can show me in a picture what the box deminsions and port would look like, Im a visual learner

when you say 6" x 31.35" port or 4.65" x 10" square port what does that mean....... Sorry for my ignorance when it comes to this stuff guys but everyones got to start somewhere !!

Thanks for the patients and help!

 

[RBrashears]

not that i'm giving up on this project already.... But for those who have built this sub or heard it is it worth it in your opinion?

im thinking i'll have around 620 in this build for the sub, amp, and box plus whatever else will be needed.

is there any sub on the market that would produce at the same level or better for around that price? Im up for suggestions

 

[annunaki]

not that i'm giving up on this project already.... But for those who have built this sub or heard it is it worth it in your opinion?

im thinking i'll have around 620 in this build for the sub, amp, and box plus whatever else will be needed.

is there any sub on the market that would produce at the same level or better for around that price? Im up for suggestions

Hi,

The sub is definitely worth it and will definitely best anything in the $620 price range and even up past $2k if it is done right.

See my build thread (The beast) for a sealed enclosure. I use this today as a sub in one of my systems and it is still my reference standard.

If your room is large, you will want to do a vented enclosure, which in all reality is very difficult with this driver. To do it right you will need a 5.0ft^3 (net) enclosure with a slot vent 4" in height 16" wide and 79.3 inches in length to avoid audible vent velocity with 1000 watts RMS input power. The problem here is that the slot vent will displace 3.5ft^3 of air itself making your gross enclosure volume 9.0ft^3 + once you add in bracing woofer displacement, etc.

You can do a 4.5-5.0ft^3 enclosure with dual 18" passive radiators from AE Speakers however. It will add some to your overall cost but give you the equal of the vented enclosure performance and simplify your build.

 

[RBrashears]

Thanks!, I like the sound of the sealed box with the passive Radiators!! Anything else I should know with this built opinion??

 

[annunaki]

Thanks!, I like the sound of the sealed box with the passive Radiators!! Anything else I should know with this built opinion??

It is pretty straight forward. I will have to model it again and get you the correct dimension of the enclosure and which passives to use (there are two models of 18").

The passive radiators must fire horizontally is the only stipulation with this type of build.

 

[RBrashears]

I just noticed there were two different radiotors myself, the 2100 and the 1600
If it doesn't make much of a difference Im leaning towards the 1600 model
It would save me 60 for the pair... Would it lack compared to the 2100 tho?

 

[RBrashears]

annunaki,
did you ever get a chance to model the box again for my correct deminsions and figure out which passive to use? Im getting anxious I cant wait to start this build

 

[annunaki]

I just noticed there were two different radiotors myself, the 2100 and the 1600
If it doesn't make much of a difference Im leaning towards the 1600 model
It would save me 60 for the pair... Would it lack compared to the 2100 tho?

Only one of the models works an I apologize that I do not recall the dimensions or which model right now. Let me see if I can get it modeled for you tonight. I have been rather busy as of late and mostly posting from my phone when i have a few mins. In the mean time try searching through my posts in the DIY section as I think I posted my recommendation on this in the past.

 

[annunaki]

Found it!!

See my post in this thread, option 3. It is the PR18-2100:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/diy-corner-tips-techniques/67396-need-help-box-jl-audio-12w7-3-a.html#post738386

 

[RBrashears]

Sweet thanks !! I'm going to order tonight

 

[Alex2507]

The passive radiators must fire horizontally is the only stipulation with this type of build.

How about the sub itself? Can it be down or up firing? ... just curious. The high pass infrasonic filter, what would you do that with? A DCX-2496?

 

[Warpdrv]

You can use a dcx2496, The MIC2200 works really well for a Highpass filter, but doesn't really offer an EQ...

There is also a MiniDSP product that will serve as both a high pass and EQ you may want to look into... programmed with a computer...

If you haven't yet purchased an amp for that JL, I would look at the INnuke 3000 DSP.... amp and EQ all in one..

BEHRINGER: NU3000DSP

I would watch the gains with that amp, might be a bit on the high side of power, but will certainly give it plenty... Or maybe the NU1000DSP would be better for a PR design... 1000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)
http://www.behringer.com/EN/products/NU1000DSP.aspx

annunaki knows that driver well, he can give you a better idea on power..

 

[RBrashears]

That was my next question .. I keep seeing that people recommend the Behringer ep2500, but then I'll need to buy an EQ and high pass too, is there an amp I can buy that would do all of these things ? I doubt I'll ever use it to the amps max so Wattage wise I'm sure I can cut back some if need be...
Thanks !!

 

[annunaki]

That was my next question .. I keep seeing that people recommend the Behringer ep2500, but then I'll need to buy an EQ and high pass too, is there an amp I can buy that would do all of these things ? I doubt I'll ever use it to the amps max so Wattage wise I'm sure I can cut back some if need be...
Thanks !!

The mini DSP is a great option along with the Behringer EP2500. It will allow a high pass (infrasonic) filter below 20hz. The DCX2496 does not allow for this unfortunately. Unless you can find a high pass filter that you can set below 20hz, these EQ/processors are your best option since they are also highly capable in more than just one area.

The INuke solution is an interesting one but I have no first hand knowledge with it.

The W7, because of its extremely low power compression, highly linear motor and underrated excursion, it can handle tremendous amounts of dynamic input power above the rms rating. This driver will run all day on 1000 watts of rms power. Obviously, one will not be listening at that level but it can take large amounts of power with no issue.

You can just run the amplifier without any processing/infrasonic filter, just be very careful with how loudly you are playing it as excursion rises above comfortable levels below 20hz using 1000 watts of simulated input power. To be honest depending in your room size I doubt you would even be brave enough to get it THAT loud to worry under normal applications. It is a monster when sealed with EQ so going with passive radiators will be downright scary.